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TUP P>T> A f^TI C* A 

COOKBOOK 

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HOWARD 







Class . 

Book. ! _- -- 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



THE PRACTICAL 
COOKBOOK 

A BOOK OF ECONOMICAL RECIPES 



BY 



MARGARET W. HOWARD 

n 

HEAD OF DOMESTIC-SCIENCE DEPARTMENT 
HIGH SCHOOL OF PRACTICAL ARTS, BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



GINN AND COMPANY 

BOSTON • NEW YORK • CHICAGO • LONDON 
ATLANTA • DALLAS • COLUMBUS • SAN FRANCISCO 



COPYRIGHT, 1917, BY MARGARET W. HOWARD 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 






APR 13 !9I7 



GINN AND COMPANY • PRO- 
PRIETORS • BOSTON • U.S.A. 



'CU460282 



N. 



PREFACE 

This book presents a rather large collection of tested and 
economical recipes, in such a manner as to show their relation 
to one another and to the whole question of balanced meals. 
The plan of the book is novel, but it is hoped that it will the 
more commend itself to the public for that very reason. It is 
absolutely essential that the General Directions which accom- 
pany each group of recipes should be read and followed ; also 
that the references should be carefully traced. If the house- 
keeper calculates the cost of each dish as she prepares it, the 
columns headed Price will serve as a reasonably accurate 
guide to the cost of her daily meals. 

The book has grown out of many years of classroom work, 
and the arrangement is designed, by omitting all unnecessary 
directions, to force the student to reason out the recipes for 
herself. But it is a cookbook, not a textbook, and laboratory 
directions and explanatory text are purposely omitted. 

In preparing the book, the bulletins of the United States 
Department of Agriculture, magazines dealing with the sub- 
ject of food, and many standard works on dietetics and the 
preparation of food have been freely consulted. 

The author wishes to express her gratitude to the many 
friends who have allowed her to use their original recipes, as 
well as to those who have read and criticized the manuscript. 

MARGARET W. HOWARD 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

I. Introduction i 

II. Water 4 

Tea 4 

Coffee 5 

Chocolate 5 

III. Mineral Salts 7 

Fruit 7 

Vegetables 10 

IV. Starch 19 

Potatoes 19 

Breakfast cereals 22 

Rice 23 

Macaroni 25 

Corn, tapioca, sago, and rice products 26 

Flour 29 

V. Sugar 54 

Candy 54 

Frostings and cake fillings 56 

Pudding sauces 59 

VI. Proteids 61 

Milk . . 61 

Cheese 62 

Eggs 63 

Meat 70 

Gelatin 80 

Poultry 82 

Fish 85 

Shellfish 90 

Nuts and legumes — meat substitutes 93 



vi THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

PAGE 

VII. Fats and Oils 95 

Salad dressings nc 

Croquettes, fish balls, etc 0,9, 

Pastry 101 

VIII. Frozen Desserts 107 

IX. Canning and Preserving 109 

Jelly-making no 

Pickling hi 

X. Food for Invalids 113 

Fluid diet 113 

Light soft diet 115 

Soft, or convalescent, diet 116 

XL Unclassified Recipes 117 

XII. Selection of Food 137 

How to plan meals 137 

INDEX 147 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



ABBREVIATIONS 



c. = cup or cupful 


pk 


. = peck 


$ = cents 


pt 


= pint 


doz. = dozen 


Pkg 


= package 


dr. = drop 


qt 


= quart 


hp. = heaping 


sec 


= seconds 


hr. = hour 


si 


= slice 


in. = inch 


spk 


= speck 


lb. = pound 


sq 


= square 


lg. = large 


ssp 


= saltspoonful 


min. = minute 


tb 


= tablespoonful 


oz. = ounce 


tsp 


= teaspoonful 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



INTRODUCTION 

Food is anything which, taken into the body, rebuilds the 
tissues, yields heat and energy, or aids in body processes. 
All foods contain one or more chemical compounds, and the 
amounts of those compounds furnish a means of classifying 
foods, as follows : ( i ) Proteids, containing nitrogen, supply 
tissue-building materials and yield heat and energy, but, as they 
alone can build tissue, should not be depended upon as heat- 
givers. (2) Starch and sugar (carbohydrates) yield energy and 
heat, because they contain carbon. (3) Fats and oils (hydro- 
carbons) give a larger amount of heat, but are less valuable as 
proteid-sparers and, like starch and sugar, may be stored as fat 
in the body. (4) Mineral salts aid largely in forming bones, 
teeth, hair, and nails, and assist in the processes of digestion, 
assimilation, metabolism, circulation, respiration, etc. (5) Water 
is necessary to support life, carry away waste, soften food for 
digestion, and, by evaporation, keep the body at its normal 
temperature. 

Food is cooked to destroy any germs it may contain and 
to render it more palatable, more digestible, or both. 

Cooking is the preparation of food by the aid of heat. The 
common methods of cooking are (1) with water, as boiling, 
steaming, simmering, and stewing ; (2) in the oven, as roast- 
ing or baking; (3) by direct heat, as broiling; (4) with fat, 
as frying or sauteing. 

Careful and accurate measurements are necessary for good 
results in cooking. Cups which are to be filled with liquid 



2 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

should be placed on a plate to avoid spilling. To fill a cup 
with any dry material, put the food into the cup by the spoon- 
ful until heaping full, and then level with the back of a case 
knife. Butter should be packed into the cup (or spoon) with 
a knife, then leveled. 

To measure dry material by the spoonful, dip in the spoon, 
fill full, then level as above. A half spoonful should be 
measured as above, then divided lengthwise into halves. 

Measure acid substances with agate or glass cups and stir 
with a wooden or silver spoon. 

Sift powdered sugar, flour, meal, etc. before and after 
measuring. If materials are all prepared and measured before 
beginning to mix the ingredients, much time and confusion 
may be saved. Study the recipes carefully, and if several cook- 
ing processes are involved, attend first to that which requires 
the most time. When more than one material is to be pre- 
pared, begin with that which will be least harmed by standing ; 
for example, when celery and apples are to be used as a salad, 
the celery should be cut up first, as the apples will discolor if 
exposed to the air. 

Use as few utensils as possible in your work, and as soon 
as you have finished using them, arrange them neatly for 
washing. Bowls, etc., which have contained eggs, starchy 
mixtures, cereals, or milk, should be soaked in cold water ; 
hot water should be used for anything which has held sugar. 
Greasy dishes should first be wiped with clean, soft paper 
(which should be burned), and then soaked in hot, soapy water. 

The following Table of Equivalents will be found useful, also 
that of Staple Foodstuffs : Weights, Equivalents, and Approxi- 
mate Prices. 

Table of Equivalents 

4 saltspoonfuls (ssp.) = i teaspoonful 
3 teaspoonfuls (tsp.) = i tablespoonful 
1 6 tablespoonfuls (tb.) = i cup 
i cup (c.) = \ pint 



INTRODUCTION 

Staple Foodstuffs : Weights, Equivalents, and 
Approximate Prices 



Equivalent Measures 
and Weights 



Price 



Butter , 

Sugar (gran.) . . . 
Sugar (powd.) . . , 
Sugar (brown) . . , 
Flour (white) . . , 
Flour (whole-wheat) . 
Flour (graham) . . 
Baking-powder . , 

Raisins 

Currants . . . . , 

Citron 

Common crackers . 

Molasses 

Vinegar 

Vanilla extract . . . 
Lemon extract . . . 
Canned tomatoes 
Canned corn . . . 
Canned peas . . . 
Canned pineapple . 
Canned salmon . . 
Dried beef . . . . 
Chopped meat . . . 

Oatmeal 

Rolled oats . . . . 
Corn meal . . . . 
Rye meal . . . . , 

Rice 

Coffee 

Tea 

Cocoa 

Cornstarch . . . , 
Macaroni 



2 C. 


= 


lb 


Variable 


2 C. 


= 


11. 


6f-8£perlb. 


2f C. 


= 


[ lb 


6\ 0-8i per lb. 


2|C. 


= 


lb 


5^0-7^ per lb. 


4 c. 


= 


lb 


7 per lb. 


3? c - 


= 


[ lb 


7 per lb. 


4i c. 


= 


lb 


3^0 per lb. 


2|C. 


= 


lb 


42 per lb. 


3 c 


= 


r II) 


1 2 $-150 per lb. 


3 C - 


= 


[ lb 


22 <£ per lb. 


3 c - 


= 


lb 


22 per lb. 


7 c 


= 


lb 


7 per lb. 


4 c 


=: 


iqt 


1 2 0-i 5^ per qt. 


4 c. 


= 


qt 


80-IO0 per qt. 


96 tsp. 


= ] 


pt 


$1.95 per pt. 


96 tsp. 


= 1 


pt 


$1.95 per pt. 


4 c. 


= 1 


ca 


a 12 'f-150 per can 


2 c. 


= 1 


ca 


a 130-150 per can 


2 C. 


= 1 


ca 


n 150-250 per can 


2 C. 


= 1 


ca 


n 17 0-250 per can 


2 C. 


= 1 


ca 


a 22 0-250 P er can 


i jar 


= - 


\ ,b 


22 per jar 


2 c. 


= 


lb 


Variable 


2^ c 


= 


c lb 


5 per lb. 


4| c 


= 


r lb 


5 per lb. 


2|C. 


= 


[ lb 


3 per lb. 


4|c. 


= 


lb 


4 per lb. 


I| c. 


= 


[ lb 


io0 per lb. 


4C. 


= 


lb 


30 0-4O per lb. 


6 c. 


= 


[ lb 


50 per lb. and upwards 


3l c - 


= 


[ lb 


40 per lb. 


3 C - 


= 


lb 


10 0-i 2 per lb. 


4 c. 


= 


r lb 


15 per lb. 



II 



WATER 

Boiling (temperature 2i2°F.): much steam in puffs; bub- 
bles large and move rapidly. Simmering (temperature about 
1 8 5 F.) : vapor rises; bubbles small and move slowly. Luke- 
warm (temperature about 98 F.) : neither hot nor cold to hand. 



TEA 

Source. Leaves of tea plant, grown in India, China, Japan, 
and Ceylon. Varieties, green or black. Many grades. 

Food Value. None. Contains theine, a nerve stimulant ; and 
tannin, which tends to impair digestion. 

Cost. Tea, 50$ per lb. and upwards. 6 c. = 1 lb. 



Boiling 
Water 



Tea 



Sugar 



Tea 

Russian tea (hot) 
Russian tea (cold) 



4 c. 
4 c. 
4 c. 



2 tsp. 
2 tsp. 

2 tsp. 



8 tsp. 

4 tb. 



4 slices 

1 



Tea. Scald an earthen or agate teapot, put in the tea, pour 
over it the boiling water ; let stand on back of stove 5 min. 
and serve. Never boil tea nor use a tin teapot, as the action 
of the tannin is thereby increased. A tea ball containing the 
tea may be suspended in the teapot and the boiling water 
poured over it. 

Russian tea. Make Tea (above) and put a slice of lemon 
and 2 tsp. sugar in each cup when serving. 

Iced Russian tea. Add sugar and lemon juice to Tea (above). 
Strain and ice when cold. 

4 



WATER 5 

COFFEE 

Source. Seeds of coffee berry, grown in most tropical 
countries. 

Food Value. Same as tea ; contains caffeine instead of theine. 
Cost. Coffee, 30 <£ to 40^ per lb. 40.= ! lb. 



Boiled coffee . . 
Percolator coffee . 
Filtered coffee 



Boiling 
Water 



4 C 

4 C. 
4 C. 



8 tb. 
8 tb. 
# c. 



2 tb. 



Cold 
Water 



Price 



Boiled coffee. Scald an agate or aluminum coffeepot. Mix 
egg, using part of shell, with half the cold water and add to 
the coffee. Put into coffeepot, pour on it the boiling water, 
and boil hard for 3 min. Clear the spout, pouring back the 
coffee ; add remainder of cold water and let stand on back of 
stove for 10 min. Serve with cream or scalded milk. 

Percolator coffee. Scald the percolator ; put coffee into the 
upper part and boiling water into the lower. Boil until coffee 
is of the strength required. 

Filtered coffee. Scald coffeepot and place in a pan of boil- 
ing water. Put the coffee, which should be finely ground, into 
the strainer, place in coffeepot, and pour water through slowly. 
Serve at once, without boiling. 



CHOCOLATE 

Source. A product of the cocoa bean, grown in tropical 
countries. Many varieties. 

Food Value. Contains fat, starch, and protein. 
Cost. 

Chocolate, 38 $ per lb. 16 sq. = 1 lb. 

Cracked cocoa, 34^ per lb. 2§ c. = 1 lb. 

Powdered cocoa, 40 per lb. 3^ c. = 1 lb. 

Cocoa shells, 6 $ per lb. 8 c. = 1 lb. 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Water 



Sugar 



Price 



Chocolate 
Cocoa . . . . 
Cracked cocoa . 
Cocoa shells 



tb. 



2 C. 
I C. 

6c. 
4 c. 



2 tb. 
6 tsp. 



Chocolate. Scald milk. Scrape the chocolate, add sugar and 
a little of the water, and cook until smooth. Add remainder 
of water gradually and boil gently for 5 min. Add to the 
scalded milk and beat with an egg-beater before serving, i tsp. 
vanilla may be added if desired, and the chocolate served with 
whipped cream. 

Cocoa. Make as above, mixing cocoa with sugar, then 
adding slowly all the water. 

Cracked cocoa. Simmer gently for 2 hr. or longer. Do not 
throw away the cracked cocoa ; by adding a little fresh each 
day it may be used for several days. 

Cocoa shells. Put the cocoa shells into a coffeepot with cold 
water and boil steadily for at least 1 hr. (This may be reheated 
if all is not used.) Serve with hot milk, cream, and sugar. 



Ill 

MINERAL SALTS 

FRUIT 

Dried Fruits 
Source. General. 
Food Value. Chiefly for mineral salts ; some for sugar. 

Cost. 

Apples, 1 5 ^ per lb. 

Apricots, 20 <£ per lb. I 2 a c# _ x lb. 

Peaches, 20$ per lb. 

Prunes, 16 ^ per lb. , 

Figs, 2 2<£ per lb. 1 c. = 1 lb. 

Dates, i20 per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. 

Dried-apple sauce. Allow 1 c. of fruit for four servings. 
Wash thoroughly, cover with cold water, soak for several hours, 
and cook gently in same water till soft. About 15 min. before 
removing from fire add sugar to taste. The flavor is improved 
by the addition of a few slices of lemon with the sugar. 
Strain before serving. 

Stewed apricots. Make as above, omitting lemon. Do not 
strain. 

Stewed peaches. Make like Stewed apricots (above). 

Stewed prunes. Allow 2 c. for four servings. Cook like 
Dried-apple sauce (above), without straining. 

Stewed figs. Use pulled figs .when possible. Wash and 
examine carefully ; soak for 1 hr. in water enough barely to 
cover. Use same water for cooking them and simmer gently 
till tender. Sugar and a little lemon juice may be added after 
cooking if desired. Serve with or without whipped cream. 
May be cooked in a double boiler. 

7 



8 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Stuffed prunes. Cook as for Stewed primes (p. 7). When 
fruit is soft, remove the stones carefully, place half a walnut in 
each cavity, and roll prune firmly round it. Place fruit, when 
prepared, in a serving-dish and pour over it the sirup left from 
cooking the prunes. The sirup should be rather sweet. Serve 
with cream (plain or whipped). 

Stuffed dates. Dates will not require soaking, but should 
be washed and dried thoroughly. Remove the stones with a 
sharp knife and refill the dates with nuts, crystallized ginger, 
fondant, peanut butter, or cream cheese, made into small rolls 
after seasoning with a little salt and paprika. When nuts, 
ginger, or fondant are used, roll the dates in powdered sugar 
and serve as a confection. Cheese dates or nut-butter dates 
may be served with a salad or after dinner with crackers. 

Fresh Fruits 



Source. See Dried Fruits. 










Food Value. See Dried Fruits. 










Cost. 










A PP les . 35 per pk. 


40 


to 50 = 


1 pk. 




Cranberries, 10$ per qt. 




4C. = 


1 qt. 




Pineapples, 20$ each. 










Bananas, 2 5 per doz. 










Grapefruit, 8$ each. 


Rhubarb, 3 


$ per lb 




Oranges, 30 per doz. 


Lemons, 25 


per doz. 




Fruit 


Sugar 


Water 


Cinnamon 


Lemon 


Price 


Baked apples .... 


4 


8 tb. 


I c. 


i tsp. 


— 




Stuffed apples 








4 


8 tb. 


I C. 


— 


— 




Glazed apples . 








4 


1 c. 


2 C. 


— 


i 




Apple sauce . 








4 


1c 


•1 C 
2 C. 


— 


— 




Cranberry sauce 








2 c. 


I c. 


I C. 


— 


— 




Cranberry jelly 








2 c. 


I c. 


|c. 


— 


— 




Baked bananas 








4 


1c. 





— 


i 




Fruit macedoine 








2 c. 


ic. 





— 


1 
3 




Fruit punch 








I c. 


*c. 


3 c 


— 


— 




Rhubarb sauce 








4 c. 


I c. 


ic. 


— 


— 





MINERAL SALTS 9 

General Directions. Fruit should be kept in a cool place 
and should be thoroughly washed before being used for the 
table or for cooking. All decayed portions should be carefully 
removed. Apples must be pared, except for baking ; cran- 
berries should be picked over thoroughly ; grapefruit should 
be cut in halves, the seeds removed, and the pulp separated 
from the tough membrane ; pineapples should be pared, the 
eyes removed with a sharp knife, and the fruit shredded with 
a silver fork ; bananas should be peeled and scraped ; oranges 
for slicing should be pared with a sharp knife in order to re- 
move the thin as well as the thick skin, and sliced so that the 
core will not be included ; lemons should be cut crosswise, not 
from stem to blossom end ; rhubarb, when young and tender, 
should not be peeled, as the red skin gives an attractive color 
to the sauce. 

Baked apples. Pare and core apples (or, if it is desired 
to retain the color, do not pare) ; put in a buttered baking- 
dish, fill centers with sugar and spice mixed, pour the water 
around them, and bake in a moderate oven until soft, basting 
occasionally. The dish should be covered. 

Stuffed apples. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. raisins, 2 tb. 
chopped nuts. Mix these with the sugar, which may be either 
brown or white, and proceed as above. Serve with whipped 
cream. 

Glazed apples. Boil sugar and water gently for 5 min. 
Quarter and core the apples ; put \ the pieces into the sirup, 
removing when soft ; put in the remainder of the apples and 
cook in the same way. When all are cooked, strain sirup over 
them. Lemon rind, thinly pared, may be cooked in the sirup 
if the apples are not sour, or a bit of stick cinnamon or ginger 
root may be added. 

Apple sauce. Quarter the apples and cook with the water 
until soft enough to rub through a strainer, adding sugar and 
spice about 10 min. before removing from fire. If sauce is 
desired unstrained, core the apples before cooking. 



10 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Cranberry sauce. Add sugar and water to berries ; cover 
and boil 10 min. Strain if desired. 

Cranberry jelly. Cook berries with the water for 15 min. 
Strain, rubbing as much as possible through sieve, add sugar, 
cook 5 min., and pour into a mold or glasses. 

Baked bananas. Cut bananas in quarters, lengthwise, and 
place in a buttered baking-dish. Mix sugar and lemon juice, 
adding 1 tb. melted butter if desired ; spread this mixture over 
the fruit and bake in a slow oven till bananas are soft, basting 
with the juice at least once. May be served with whipped 
cream or as a vegetable. 

Fruit macedoine. Oranges, grapefruit, bananas, pineapples, 
peaches, and strawberries may be used, combining two or 
more kinds. Fruit should be prepared according to General 
Directions, then mixed with the sugar and lemon juice 
and chilled before serving. May be used as a dessert, or, 
under name of " fruit cocktail," as the first course for a 
formal luncheon. 

Fruit punch. Use juice of fruit only. A good combination 
is made by using 1 lemon, 1 orange, and -|- c. grape juice or 
i c. strong tea. Boil sugar and water, then add the fruit juice. 
It is better to chill the punch than to add ice to it. 

Rhubarb sauce. Cut rhubarb into inch lengths and put into 
an agate or porcelain-lined saucepan with just enough water 
to cover bottom. Cook until soft and sweeten to taste. May 
also be baked until soft. 

VEGETABLES 

Winter Vegetables 

Source. Roots, tubers, stems, leaves, bulbs, fruit, or flowers 
of various plants. 

Food Value. Principally for mineral salts, acids, and crude 
fiber. Some contain starch. 

Cost. See market prices. 



MINERAL SALTS 



1 1 





Vege- 
tables 


Boiling 
Salted 
Water 


Butter 


Salt 


Pepper 


Hot 

Milk 


Flour 


Price 


Buttered carrots . 


4 


2 qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


_ 


— 




Buttered parsnips 


4 


2qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


— 


— 




Mashed turnips . 


4 


2 qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


— 


— 




Stewed celery . . 


i bunch 


2qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


I c. 


— 




Buttered beets 


4 


2qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


— 


— 




Boiled onions . . 


8 


2qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


I c. 


— 




String beans . . 


2 qt. 


2 qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


— 


— 




Spinach .... 


ipk. 


I c. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


— 


— 




Cauliflower . . . 


i 


2qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


2 C 


4 tb. 




Cabbage .... 


2 lb. 


2qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


— 


— 




Squash .... 


2 lb. 


2 qt. 


2 tb. 


To taste 


To taste 


— 


— 







General Directions. All vegetables should be thoroughly 
washed, prepared according to kind, and, if necessary, fresh- 
ened by standing in cold water for an hour or more before 
cooking. Then cook in enough freshly boiling salted water to 
cover the food. When soft enough to pierce easily with a fork, 
drain very dry and season. Strong-flavored vegetables should 
be cooked in an uncovered kettle. 

Buttered carrots. Scrape carrots and cook i to 2 hr. Slice 
or cut in strips either before or after cooking. Add required 
seasonings or serve in i c. white sauce. 

Buttered parsnips. Same as for Buttered carrots (above). 
May be cut in quarters, lengthwise, and browned in hot butter 
or drippings. 

Mashed turnips. Pare turnips and cut in quarters. Cook 
about i hr. After cooking, mash and add required seasonings. 
May be cut in cubes before cooking and served in a white 
sauce. 

Stewed celery. Scrape celery and cut in inch lengths. Cook 
\ hr. Add required seasonings or serve in i * c. white sauce. 

Buttered beets. Cook beets 3 to 5 hr. Peel and slice after 
cooking and season as required, or chop fine and reheat with 
the seasonings, adding 1 tb. butter. 



12 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Pickled beets. Cover cold cooked beets with vinegar, add- 
ing a bit of bay leaf and a few cloves and peppercorns. 

Boiled onions. Peel under water and let stand 1 to I hr. 
in cold water to which a little cooking-soda has been added. 
Drain and add fresh water at least twice while cooking. Cook 
ii to 2 hr. Serve with required seasonings or add i *- c. white 
sauce. 

String beans. Pare thinly on both sides to remove strings, 
cut off ends, and cut in inch pieces. Cook i to 2 hr. Season 
as required. 

Spinach. Cut off roots and poor leaves, wash in several 
waters, and cook 20 to 30 min. in a very little water, to re- 
tain juice. Chop fine and season with salt, pepper, and butter, 
and garnish with hard-cooked egg. Beet and dandelion greens, 
Swiss chard, etc. may be cooked like spinach. 

Bechamel spinach. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. flour, ^ c. 
milk. Cook spinach as above, drain, and chop. Melt butter, 
add spinach, heat, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and flour. 
Add hot milk, stir till well blended, and serve hot. 

Cauliflower. Remove outside leaves and soak in cold water 
(head down) for J hr. Cook whole, or separate into flowerets. 
Cook 30 to 60 min. Serve in a white sauce made from 
required seasonings. 

Cabbage. Prepare as for Caulifloiver (above), quartering be- 
fore cooking. Cook 2 to 3 hr. May be chopped, and seasoned 
or served in a white sauce. 

Squash. Cut in pieces and remove seeds. May be pared 
before or after cooking. Will be drier if steamed instead of 
boiled, but a longer time will be required. Cook 1 to i-|- hr., 
mash, and season. 

Summer and Fall Vegetables 

Source. See Winter Vegetables. 
Food Value. See Winter Vegetables. 
Cost. See Winter Vegetables. 



MINERAL SALTS 



13 





Vege- 
table 


Boiling 

Water 


But- 
ter 


Salt 


Pepper 


Bread 

Crumbs 


Milk 


Flour 


Price 


Asparagus . . . 


I bunch 


3 qt- 


3tb. 


i tb. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


— 




Green peas . . 


4 qt. 


2 qt. 


2 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


— 




Shell beans . . 


3 qt- 


2 qt. 


2tb. 


1 tsp. 


i tsp. 


— 


— 


— 




Green corn . . 


S ears 


3 qt- 


— 


1 tb. 





— 


— 


— 




Stuffed peppers . 


4 


— 


4 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


i£ c. 


— 


— 




Eggplant . . . 


1 


















Creamed salsify . 


1 bunch 


2qt. 


2tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


— 


2 C. 


4 tb. 




Brussels sprouts . 


1 qt. 


2 qt. 


2tb. 


1 tsp. 


i tsp. 


— 


2 C. 


4 tb. 




Stewed tomatoes 


f2lb.,or 
I 1 qt. 


— 


2tb. 


1 tsp. 


i tsp. 


ic. 


— 


— 




Scalloped toma- 




















toes .... 


1 qt. 


— 


4tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


I c. 


— 


— 




Baked tomatoes . 


4 


— 


4 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— . 


— 




Jerusalem arti- 




















chokes . . . 


4 


2qt. 


2tb. 


1 tsp. 


— 


— 


2 C. 


4 tb. 




Succotash . . . 


3 C - 


— 


2 tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


I C. 


— 




Summer squash . 


1 


2qt. 


2 tb. 


itsp. 


i tsp. 


— 


— 


— 





General Directions. All vegetables should be thoroughly 
washed and cooked till tender in freshly boiling, salted water 
(^ tb. salt to 1 qt. water) unless otherwise directed. 

Asparagus. Remove white part of stalk and tie in bunches. 
Cook about 20 min. When asparagus is soft, drain well and 
place on slices of buttered toast which have been previously 
dipped in the water in which the asparagus was cooked. 
Season with required seasonings. 

Green peas. Shell and wash. Cook | to il hr. according 
to age. Drain and season. 

Shell beans. Prepare like Green peas (above). Will require 
at least 1 hr. to cook. 

Green corn. Remove husks and silk as soon as corn 
comes from market. Wash before cooking. Requires 20 to 30 
min. to cook and is done when no juice appears if corn is 
pricked with a fork. 2 tsp. sugar may be added to water while 
cooking. Serve wrapped in a napkin. 



14 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Stuffed peppers. Additional ingredients: 4 tb. chopped 
meat or 6 tb. grated cheese. 1 tsp. scraped onion may be 
used with meat. Remove stem end and seeds from the peppers 
and parboil 10 min. Drain thoroughly, turning upside down 
to dry, and fill with a stuffing made from the stale bread 
crumbs and the seasonings, adding enough boiling water to 
moisten well. Bake 25 to 30 min. in a moderate oven and 
serve with or without toast and Broxvn sauce (p. 30). 

Eggplant. Wash eggplant and cut in l-inch slices. Pare, 
pile slices together with plenty of salt between them, cover 
with a plate and weight, and let stand several hours. Drain, 
wash well in cold water, and dry. Dip in batter or in egg and 
crumbs, as for croquettes, and saute or fry in deep fat. 

Stuffed eggplant. Eggplant may be parboiled and stuffed 
like peppers. 

Creamed salsify. Scrape salsify, cut in |-inch slices, and 
let stand for \ hr. in cold water to which 1 tb. vinegar has 
been added. Drain, cook in boiling water till tender (| to 
1 hr.), then drain again and serve in a white sauce made from 
remaining ingredients. 

Brussels sprouts. Wash well and change water several 
times while cooking, keeping kettle uncovered. Cook 20 to 30 
min. ; drain and finish as for Creamed salsify (above). 

Stewed tomatoes. Peel tomatoes by pouring boiling water 
on them and drawing off the skin. Quarter and cook in a 
double boiler until perfectly soft. Add seasonings. Bread 
crumbs may be omitted and 2 tb. sugar added. 

Scalloped tomatoes. Peel as above and slice the tomatoes. 
Melt butter and add to it the crumbs, which should be fine and 
dry. Place tomatoes in a buttered baking-dish in two layers ; 
sprinkle with salt, pepper, and crumbs, with more crumbs on top 
than between the layers. Bake 35 to 45 min. in a moderate oven. 

Stuffed tomatoes. Instead of peeling and slicing the toma- 
toes, a small section may be removed from the center and the 
crumbs and seasonings used for a stuffing, as for peppers. 



MINERAL SALTS 15 

Baked tomatoes. Additional ingredient : 2 tb. chopped 
green pepper. Cut tomatoes in halves and place, skin side 
down, in a buttered baking-dish. Dot with bits of the butter 
and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and the chopped pepper. Bake 
till tomatoes are soft, and serve on slices of buttered toast, with 
or without 1 c. white sauce poured round them. 

Jerusalem artichokes. Peel and cook in boiling water till 
tender (45 to 60 min.). Drain and cut in cubes. Serve in 
a white sauce made from the milk etc. 

Succotash. Make from left-over or canned vegetables, or 
cook fresh ones. Allow equal parts of shell beans and of corn 
cut from the cob. Heat with the seasonings and serve hot. 

Summer squash. Cut in quarters, pare, and remove seeds. 
Cook till tender but not watery (30 to 40 min.), drain and 
mash, then drain again and season. 

Salad Plants 

Source. Leaves, stems, fruits, or roots of various plants. 

Food Value. Chiefly for mineral salts and cellulose. 

Cost. Variable. 

Under this topic are grouped vegetables which may be 
served raw ; some of them are also included in the lessons 
on cooked vegetables. 

Lettuce, endive, romaine, and chicory. Cut off the root, 
separate the leaves, examining them carefully and rejecting 
wilted portions, then wash thoroughly in cold water, changing 
it at least twice. Shake the leaves well,' wrap in cheesecloth, 
and place on ice until wanted. Serve plain or with French 
dressing (p. 95). 

Cucumbers. Wash, pare, slice thin, and allow cucumbers to 
stand in ice water for at least 1 hr. before serving. Drain and 
serve with cracked ice or with French dressing (p. 95). 

Radishes. Cut off leaves and stem ; scrape radishes or pare 
in 4 sections, leaving skin attached at one end. Let stand in 
cold water till ready to use. Serve on cracked ice. 



i6 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Celery. Cut off root and leafy portions, wash them, and 
save for soup. Scrape the stalks of celery thoroughly and wash 
well. Let stand in cold water till ready to use. 

Tomatoes. Pour boiling water over the fruit, let stand a 
few minutes, then peel quickly. May be served whole or sliced 
and should be well chilled before using. 

Cabbage. Shred tender cabbage leaves very fine and let 
stand in cold water for i hr. Drain and dry thoroughly. Serve 
with French dressing (p. 95) or Cooked salad dressing (p. 68) 
or add sugar and vinegar before sending to table. 

Watercress. Remove coarse stems, wash very thoroughly, 
and proceed as for lettuce. 

Vegetable Soups 

Fresh and Canned Vegetables 

Source. See Vegetables and Milk. 

Food Value. See Vegetables and Milk. 

Cost. See market prices and prices of individual items. 



Water 



Milk 



Flour 



Salt 



Pepper 



Onion 



Tomato soup . 
Tomato bisque 
Green-pea soup 
Celery soup . 
Potato soup . 
Corn soup . . 



4 c. 



3 c 

2 C. 
2 C. 



4c. 
4 c. 

3 C - 
4 c. 



2 C. 

2 C. 

3c 

2 C. 



6tb. 
6tb. 
3 tb. 
6tb. 
3 tb. 
3 tb. 



3 tb. 
3tb. 
2 tb. 
3 tb. 
2 tb. 
2 tb. 



i tsp 
i tsp. 
i tsp, 
i tsp. 
i tsp. 
i tsp. 



itsp 
i tsp 
J tsp 

£ts P 
itsp 

Itsp 



i tb. 
i tb. 
i tb. 
i tb. 
i tb. 
i tb. 



General Directions. Cook vegetable in water until soft (15 to 
30 mm.) and rub thoroughly through a strainer. Add more 
water if it boils away much. 

There should be about 4 c. of the vegetable stock. Scald 
onion in milk, or chop it and cook 5 min. in the butter, being 
careful not to brown it. Add flour to butter and stir into 
this mixture the hot milk, as for White sauce, Method I 
(p. 30). Combine with the stock, reheat, season, and serve. 
1 tb. chopped parsley may be added. 



MINERAL SALTS 



17 



Tomato soup. Use the water for preparing the thicken- 
ing and measure tomato after stewing and straining. 3 or 4 
whole cloves and 3 or 4 peppercorns may be cooked in the 
tomato, and stock may be substituted for water. 

Tomato bisque. After cooking and straining tomatoes, add 
i- tsp. cooking-soda and stir until effervescence stops before 
pouring into the thickened milk. Do not combine the two 
mixtures till ready to serve, as the soup is likely to curdle if 
allowed to stand. 3 tb. cornstarch used in place of flour will 
help to prevent the soup from curdling. 

Green-pea soup. Make according to General Directions. 

Celery soup. Make according to General Directions. 

Potato soup. Use freshly cooked or cold mashed potatoes, 
measure, and add liquid, then reheat and combine with a white 
sauce according to General Directions. 

Corn soup. Make according to General Directions. 

Dried Vegetables 

Source. Seeds of leguminous plants. 

Food Value. Contain both protein and starch. 

Cost. 

Pea beans, 1 8 per qt. 2 c. = 1 lb. 

Split peas, 15 per qt. 2 c. = 1 lb. 

Lima beans, 8 per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. 

Kidney beans, 2 2 per qt. 2 c. = 1 lb. 

Black beans, 25^ per qt. 2 c. = 1 lb. 

Lentils, 20 $ per lb. 4 c. = 1 lb. 



Milk Flour 



Salt 



Pepper 



Onion 



Price 



Split-pea soup . . 
Baked-bean soup . 



1 c. 

3 C - 



8 c. 
4 c. 



3 tb. 
3 ^. 



1 tsp. 
1 tsp. 



itsp. 
i tsp. 



General Directions. Pick over and wash the vegetable and 
soak several hours or overnight. Drain and add measured water 
and small onion, with a 2-inch cube of salt pork if desired. 
Cook gently 5 or 6 hr. until liquid is reduced one half. 



1 8 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Remove salt pork and rub vegetable through a strainer to 
remove skins. Melt butter, add flour and enough stock to 
make mixture thin enough to pour. Add to rest of stock, stir 
until it boils, season, and serve. Milk may be added or not. 
If used, it may be mixed with butter and flour as for White 
sauce, Method I (p. 30). If too thick, soup may be thinned 
with milk or water, and water must be added if it boils away. 
For the following soups use vegetables indicated by the titles : 

Split-pea soup. Follow General Directions. 

Lima-beau soup. Make like Split-pea soup. 

Kidney-bean soup. Make like Split-pea soup. 

Black-bean soup. Make like Split-pea soup, and just before 
serving add 2 hard-cooked eggs and lemon, thinly sliced. 

Lentil soup. Make like Split-pea soup. 

Baked-bean soup. Make like Green-pea soup (p. 1 7), using 2 c. 
stewed and strained tomato in place of the milk if preferred. 



Vegetable Chowders 
Source. General. 

Food Value. Contain both protein and starch. 
Cost. See market prices and prices of individual items. 



Vegetable "I 
chowder j 



Founda- 
tion 



lie. 



Water 



4 C. 



Salt 
Pork 



2 tb. 



But- 
ter 



tb 



tsp, 



Pep- 
per 



itsp. 



itb. 



Price 



Vegetable chowder. For foundation use 1 c. canned beans or 
peas and ^ c. corn. (Cooked dried vegetables may be used.) 
Cook these in the water for 10 min. Slice, parboil, and drain the 
potatoes. Try out the salt pork, add onion, and cook till yel- 
low. Add the potatoes and vegetables to this with the stock 
and cook till potatoes are soft, then add the milk (scalded) 
and the seasoning, with crackers if desired. 

Corn choivder. Make as above, and for foundation use 
canned corn or fresh corn cut from the cob. 



IV 
STARCH 

POTATOES 

White Potatoes 

Source. Tubers of the white-potato plant, grown in temperate 
climate. 

Food Value. Contains starch, mineral matter, and a little 
protein. 

Cost. Potatoes, variable. 40 to 50 potatoes =1 pk. 





Potatoes 


Milk 


Flour 


Butter 


Salt 


Pepper 


Price 


Baked potatoes .... 


4-6 














Stuffed potatoes . 




4-6 


i c. 


— 


2 tb. 


i tsp. 


itsp. 




Boiled potatoes 




4-6 


— 


— 


— 


1 tsp. 


— 




Mashed potatoes . 




4-6 


Ic. 


— 


2 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Potato cases . . . 




4-6 


— 


— 


1 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Franconia potatoes 




4-6 


— 


— 


— 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Creamed potatoes 




2 c. 


2 C. 


4 tb. 


2 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Scalloped potatoes 




2 c. 


2 C. 


3 tb. 


iitb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Chopped potatoes 




2 c. 


— 


— 


3 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Lyonnaise potatoes 




2 C 


— 


— 


3 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Potato cakes . . . 




2 C. 





— 


1 tb. 


— 


— 




Potato puff . . . 




2 C. 


$C. 


— 


2 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Sauted potatoes 




2 C. 


— 


4 tb. 


4 tb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 





General Directions. Choose potatoes of uniform size, wash, 
and scrub ; pare thinly except for baked potatoes. For the last 
seven recipes use cold boiled or baked potatoes. The latter 
should be peeled while warm, as the skin gives an unpleasant 
flavor when cold. Cut potatoes into i-inch slices, then into 
cubes, before reheating. Potato cakes and Potato puff may be 

l 9 



20 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

made by ricing cold potatoes or by using cold mashed potato. 
2 or 3 potatoes should make i c. potato cubes. 

Baked potatoes. Put into a pan and bake in a moderate 
oven until soft. Allow I to ii hr. Prick with a fork, to let 
steam escape and make potatoes dry and mealy. Cover with 
a cloth until ready to serve. 

Stuffed potatoes. Prepare and bake as above ; cut in halves 
lengthwise or, if small, remove one end. Scrape out potato 
with a small spoon, being careful not to break skin. Mash the 
potato, add seasonings, beat well, return to shells, and brown 
in a hot oven. From ^ to I c. chopped meat, fish, or cheese may 
be added to potato, making a good luncheon or supper dish. 

Boiled potatoes. Wash potatoes and pare thinly. Put into i qt. 
boiling water with ^ tb. salt and boil until they can be pierced 
easily with a fork. Drain thoroughly, return to saucepan, sprinkle 
with salt, and set on back of stove till dry and mealy. Do not 
cover, as that keeps in the steam and makes the potatoes moist. 

Mashed potatoes. Prepare potatoes and cook like Boiled po- 
tatoes. When dry and mealy, mash thoroughly in saucepan used 
for cooking them, add other ingredients, beat well with a fork, 
and when light and creamy set in a hot place until ready to serve, 
or put into a buttered baking-dish and brown in a hot oven. 

Potato cases. Cook as for Mashed potatoes (above), using a 
ricer or strainer to remove lumps. Omit milk and add yolk of 
I egg. Shape into cases and brown in hot oven. Cases may be 
filled with creamed meat, fish, or eggs or with scrambled eggs. 
This mixture may also be shaped into cones or balls and browned. 

Franconia potatoes. Prepare as for boiling and cook 1 5 min. 
Drain, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and flour, place in a pan with 
meat that is being roasted, and cook till potatoes are soft, 
basting occasionally with the drippings. 

Creamed potatoes. Prepare potatoes ; make a white sauce 
of other ingredients and heat potatoes in this. 

Scalloped potatoes. Make a white sauce of the necessary in- 
gredients, put potatoes into a buttered baking-dish or ramekins, 



STARCH 21 

pour sauce over them, sprinkle with buttered crumbs (3 tb. 
melted butter to 1 c. crumbs), and bake until crumbs are 
brown. 1 c. cold cooked meat, fish, or eggs, with or without 
1 c. grated cheese, may be combined with the potatoes. Meat 
should be chopped, fish flaked, and eggs cooked hard and 
sliced. This makes a nutritious dish for lunch or supper when 
meat etc. is used. 

Delmonico potatoes. Add % c. chopped cheese to the sauce 
and proceed as for Scalloped potatoes. 

Chopped potatoes. Season potatoes with salt and pepper ; 
heat butter in frying-pan and when brown put in the potatoes 
and stir till well browned. Drippings or pork fat. may be used 
in place of all or part of the butter. 

Lyonnaise potatoes. Cook like Chopped potatoes, browning 
1 tsp. finely chopped onion in butter before adding potatoes. 

Potato cakes. Measure cold mashed potatoes and shape 
into round, slightly flattened cakes. Heat the butter in a 
frying-pan, put in the cakes, and when well browned on one 
side, turn and brown the other. 

Potato puff. Add the seasonings to cold mashed potato. 
Beat well, put into a buttered baking-dish, and bake until 
brown. 

Sauted potatoes. Slice the potatoes and sprinkle with the 
salt and pepper. Dip each slice in the flour and brown on 
both sides in hot butter. Drippings of any kind may be 
substituted for the butter. 

Sweet Potatoes 

Source. Enlarged roots of sweet-potato plant, grown in 
warm climates. 

Food Value. Valuable as a source of both starch and sugar. 

Cost. Sweet potatoes, 5 to 8 lb., 25^. 

Baked sweet potatoes. Follow recipe for Baked potatoes (p. 20). 

Stuffed sweet potatoes. Follow recipe for Stuffed potatoes 
(p. 20), omitting milk if sweet potatoes are moist. 



22 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Boiled sweet potatoes. Peel after cooking instead of before ; 
otherwise follow recipe for Boiled potatoes (p. 20). 

Mashed sweet potatoes. Proceed as for Mashed potatoes 
(p. 20). 

Chopped sweet potatoes. Proceed as for Chopped potatoes 
(p. 21). 

Glazed sweet potatoes. Cut boiled sweet potatoes into 
slices and arrange in a buttered baking-dish in layers with 
brown sugar and butter (| c. sugar and 1 tb. butter to 2 
medium-sized potatoes). Sprinkle with salt and add enough 
water to moisten slightly. Bake until golden brown. 



BREAKFAST CEREALS 

Source. Seeds of various grains. 

Food Value. Largely composed of starch ; contain protein also. 

Cost. 

Rolled oats, 5 $ per lb. 6 c. = 1 lb. 

Granular cereals, 7 per lb. 2§ c. = 1 lb. 



Hominy, 4^ per lb. 
Corn meal, 3 per lb. 



2 c. = 1 lb. 

3 c. = 1 lb. 



Rolled oats . . 
Granular cereals 
Hominy . . . 
Hominy cakes 
Corn-meal mush 



Cereal 



I C. 

H 



Salt 



I tsp. 
I tsp. 
i tsp. 
£tsp. 

1 tsp. 



Boiling 
Water 



3 C. 

4 c. 



Butter 



i tb. 



Egg 

Yolk 



Flour 



2 tb. 
2 tb. 



Price 



General Directions. Cook all cereals in a double boiler, 
looking them over carefully when measuring, and allowing time 
for a thorough cooking. Add water from time to time if 
necessary. Cooked cereals may be molded in a moistened 
bread-pan, sliced when firm, and browned in hot fat. Any 
cereals may be cooked in a tireless cooker. They should be 
prepared as above, boiled in one of the containers for 10 min., 



STARCH 



23 



then placed in the cooker with a hot soapstone and cooked 
from 2 to 12 hr., according to the kind. 

Rolled oats. Put all ingredients into top of double boiler, 
set directly over heat, and stir until mixture boils. Then set 
over hot water, cover, and steam 30 to 40 min., adding more 
water if too stiff. Preparations of rolled wheat may be cooked 
in this way, varying the amount of water if necessary. 

Granular cereals. Put water and salt in top of double 
boiler, set on stove, and when boiling sift in cereal, stirring 
constantly. Proceed as above. 

Hominy. Cook as for Rolled oats (above), allowing 3 to 
6 hr. May be cooked the day before and reheated. 

Cook Whole oatmeal and Cracked wheat like Hominy. 

Hominy cakes. Additional ingredient : I tsp. paprika. 
Use cold cooked hominy. Add all ingredients except flour to 
hominy, mix well, shape in round, slightly flattened cakes, dip 
in flour, and brown in hot fat. 

Corn-meal mush. Mix meal and flour with \ c. cold water 
and add enough more boiling water to make 4 c. Put into 
double boiler, add salt, and stir until thick. Cook 1 to 2 hr., 
adding more water if too thick. Flour may be mixed with 
meal and part milk used in place of the water if desired. Serve 
as a cereal for breakfast. 

RICE 

Source. Seeds of rice plant, grown in hot climate. 

Food Value. Richest in starch of all cereals. Little protein. 

Cost. Rice, io<£ per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. 



Steamed rice 
Boiled rice . . 
Rice and cheese 

Rice and tomato 
Rice and salmon 



Rice 



I c. 
I c. 
f c. 

f c 

I c. 



Boiling 
Water 



3 c 

6-8 c. 
6 c. 

2 c. 

3 c 



Salt 



I tsp. 
I tsp. 
I tsp. 

i tsp. 
i tsp. 



Cheese 



ic. 



Tomato 



White 
Sauce 



But- 
ter 



tb. 

tb. 



itsp. 

Spk. 
cayenne 

itsp. 



Price 



24 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

General Directions. Pick over rice, put in strainer, and set in 
bowl of cold water. Wash between hands, draining and renew- 
ing water three times. 

Steamed rice. Wash rice as above, put in double boiler 
with salt and water, and cook until kernels are soft. Add more 
water if needed. Uncover to let steam escape before serving. 
Use as a vegetable, or mold in cups for a pudding and serve 
with stewed figs. For variety place half an apricot, peach, or 
steamed apple in bottom of cup and serve with Soft custard 
(p. 66). 

Boiled rice. Wash rice and cook in rapidly boiling salted 
water until kernels are soft. Drain thoroughly and set pan on 
back of stove to dry. This method wastes a little of the nour- 
ishment, but the kernels of rice are more distinct than when 
steamed. The rice water may be saved to use in tomato soup. 

Rice and cheese. Prepare Boiled rice (above) ; add to it the 
white sauce and cheese, chopped fine. Serve plain as a supper 
dish, or put in ramekins, cover with buttered crumbs (\\ tb. 
melted butter to \ c. fine crumbs), and bake until brown. 

Hominy and cheese may be prepared like Rice and cheese, 
using cooked hominy instead of rice. 

Rice and tomato. Method I. Prepare Steamed rice (above), 
using 2 c. water, and when the water is almost absorbed, add 
tomato. When rice is cooked, season and serve as a vegetable. 
May be baked like Rice and cheese (above). 

Method 2. Additional ingredient: 2 tb. flour. Boil rice as 
for Boiled rice (above), and just before serving add I c. tomato 
sauce made from remaining ingredients. See directions for 
Tomato sauce (p. 31). 

Hominy and tomato may be made by substituting cooked 
hominy for the rice in Method 2. 

Rice with salmon. Additional ingredients : 1-pound can 
salmon, 1 c. peas. Cook the rice as for Steamed rice (above), 
and just before serving add the seasoning and mix in lightly 
the salmon (flaked) and the peas. 



STARCH 



25 



MACARONI 

Source. Made in Italy and America, from wheat flour con- 
taining much gluten. Spaghetti and vermicelli are forms of 
macaroni, also Italian paste, letters, etc., for soups. 

Food Value. Contains protein and starch. 

Cost. Macaroni, 15$ per lb. 4 c. = 1 lb. 







Maca- 
roni 


Boiling 

Salted 
Water 


Salt 


Pep- 
per 


Milk 


But- 
ter 


Sauce 


Cheese 


But- 
tered 
Crumbs 


Price 


Boiled macaroni 


I c. 


8 c. 


1 tb. 


itsp. 


$C. 


2tb. 


— 


— 


— 




Creamed maca- 






















roni .... 


I c. 


8 c. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


2 C 


— 


— 




Baked macaroni 


I c. 


8 c. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


I c. 


2tb. 


— 


— 


ic. 




Macaroni and 






















cheese . . . 


I c. 


8 c. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


2 C 


£c. 


ic. 




Macaroni and 






















tomato . . . 


1 c. 


8 c. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


2 C. 


— 


ic. 




Macaroni a 






















l'italienne . . 


1 c. 


8 c. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


2 C. 


|c 


— 




Macaroni a la 






















Creole . . . 


I c. 


8 c. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


2 C. 


ic 


— 







General Directions. Break macaroni in inch pieces, wash, and 
cook in the boiling salted water until very tender (45 to 60 min.), 
stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Drain thoroughly and 
pour cold water over macaroni to keep pieces from sticking 
together. Spaghetti and vermicelli may be cooked and served 
like macaroni. 

Boiled macaroni. Prepare as above, reheat in the milk, 
add seasonings, and serve. 

Creamed macaroni. Cook macaroni as directed, and reheat 
in white sauce. 

Baked macaroni. Prepare as for Boiled macaroni (above). 
Place all ingredients except crumbs in a buttered baking-dish 
or ramekins, cover with the crumbs, and bake until brown. 
Cheese may be added if desired. 



26 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Macaroni and cheese. Prepare as for Baked macaroni (p. 25), 
mixing macaroni and chopped cheese with the white sauce before 
placing in the baking-dish. 

Macaroni and tomato. Prepare as for Macaroni and cheese 
(above), substituting tomato sauce or stewed tomato, well seasoned, 
for the white sauce. Serve without baking if preferred. 

Macaroni a Pitalienne. Cook according to General Direc- 
tions. Reheat in tomato sauce to which \ c. grated cheese and 
1 tsp. finely chopped onion have been added. 

Macaroni a la Creole. Additional ingredients : 1- c. chopped 
pimientos, \ c. chopped mushrooms, and \ tb. finely chopped 
onion. Prepare as for Macaroni and tomato (above), adding 
above ingredients to sauce. Do not bake. 



CORN, TAPIOCA, SAGO, AND RICE PRODUCTS 

Cornstarch : kernels of corn, crushed and ground. 
Tapioca : starch washed from cassava roots. 
Sago : pith of sago palm. Rice, see p. 23. 
Food Value. Largely for starch. 

Cornstarch, 10 to 1 2 per lb. 3 c. = 1 lb. 

Tapioca (pearl), 8 to 1 o per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. 

Sago, 8$ per lb. 2^c. = 1 lb. 

Prepared tapiocas, 1 6 per lb. 1 § c. = 1 pkg. 
Rice, 10 per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. 





Founda- 
tion 


Salt 


Milk 


Sugar 


Fruit 


Vanilla 


Water 


Price 


Chocolate cream .... 


3 tb. 


J tsp. 


2 c. 


4 tb. 


— 


itsp. 


— 




Norwegian prune pudding 


2£-tb. 


J tsp. 


— 


ic. 


f c 


— 


If c. 




Baked cornstarch pudding 


3 tb. 


itsp. 


2 c. 


i c 

3 ^ - 


— 


i tsp. 


— 




Vanilla sponge pudding . 


4 tb. 


itsp. 


2 c. 


1 c 

3 l " 


— 


itsp. 


— 




Prune tapioca pudding 


ic. 


itsp. 


— 


1 c 

3 , - - 


lie. 


— 


2 C. 




Apple sago pudding . . 


}c 


£tsp. 


— 


i c. 


6 

apples 


— 


3 C - 




Baked rice pudding I . . 


*c 


£tsp. 


3 c - 


|c. 


— 


Itsp. 


— 




Baked rice pudding II . . 


I c. 


itsp. 


2 c. 


|c. 


— 


i tsp. 


— 




Baked Indian pudding . . 


4 tb. 


1 tsp. 


4 c. 


— 


— 


— 


— 





STARCH 27 

General Directions. For foundation in the first five recipes 
use cornstarch, and for the last one use corn meal. The titles 
indicate material to be used in the others. 

Chocolate cream. Additional ingredient: 1 tb. cocoa or 
\ oz. chocolate. Mix cornstarch, sugar, and cocoa with \ c. cold 
milk. Scald remainder of milk and pour slowly onto cornstarch 
mixture. Return to double boiler and stir until thick ; cover, 
and cook without stirring for 20 min. Add salt and vanilla 
and pour into cold wet glasses. Serve with whipped cream. 

Coffee cream. Additional ingredient : I c. hot coffee. Mix 
cornstarch and sugar and proceed as for Chocolate cream. 

Norwegian prune pudding. Additional ingredient : i-inch 
piece stick cinnamon cooked in sirup with prunes. Pick over and 
wash the prunes, soak for 1 hr. in | c. of the water (cold), then 
cook in the same water until prunes are tender. Remove 
stones, add the sugar and remaining cup of water (hot). When 
the mixture has boiled 5 min. stir in the cornstarch mixed with 
\ c. cold water. Cook 5 min. or until it becomes jellylike, 
stirring constantly. Remove cinnamon and pour into cold wet 
molds to harden. Serve with Soft C7istard (p. 66) or with cream. 

Baked cornstarch pudding. Additional ingredients : 1 egg, 

1 tb. butter. Mix like Chocolate cream (above). Cook in double 
boiler until mixture thickens, then add butter, salt, flavoring, 
and the egg well beaten ; pour into a buttered baking-dish and 
bake until brown (20 to 30 min.). 2 egg yolks may be used 
and the whites reserved for Meringue (p. 65) on the pudding. 

Orange pudding or Peach pudding. 2 oranges or 4 peaches 
carefully sliced may be placed in the baking-dish and the corn- 
starch mixture poured over them. Omit vanilla. Flavor Orange 
pudding with orange juice and Peach pudding with lemon juice. 

Vanilla sponge pudding. Additional ingredient: Whites of 

2 eggs. Scald all but ^ c. of milk. Mix sugar and cornstarch, 
then add the cold milk slowly. When smooth, stir in the hot 
milk and return to the double boiler. Stir until the mixture 
thickens, then cook 20 to 30 min. longer. Beat the whites of 



28 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

eggs very stiff, add salt and flavoring, and fold into the hot pud- 
ding. Turn into cold wet molds to harden. Serve with Soft 
custard (p. 66) or Chocolate sauce (p. 60). 

Fruit sponge. 1 c. canned fruit and 1 c. water or fruit juice, 
using a little cold water to mix with the cornstarch, may be 
substituted for milk in recipe for Vanilla sponge pudding (p. 27). 

Prune tapioca pudding. Additional ingredient : \ lemon, 
sliced. Pick over and wash fruit, soak in 2 c. water for 2 or 
3 hr., and cook in same water till tender, renewing water from 
time to time, so there shall be 2 c. liquid when fruit is cooked. 
Remove stones and put fruit and liquid into a double boiler. 
Add the tapioca, well washed, and cook till transparent. Add 
other ingredients, cook 5 min. longer, and serve either hot or 
cold, with sugar and cream (plain or whipped). 

Dried apricots, or canned peaches or pineapple, may be used 
in place of the prunes. Prepare dried fruits like prunes ; 
canned fruit should be cut in small pieces, and enough liquid 
added to the juice to give required amount. Then cook fruit 
juice and tapioca as above. A combination of fruits may be 
used. 

Peach tapioca jelly. Use if c liquid, and when the mixture 
begins to thicken, fold in \ c. cream (whipped). 

Apple sago pudding. Additional ingredient : ^ tsp. cinna- 
mon. Pick over and wash sago and soak for 1 hr. in cold 
water enough to cover. Drain, add boiling water and salt, and 
cook in double boiler until sago is transparent. Wash, core, 
and pare the apples and place in a buttered baking-dish. Fill 
centers with sugar and spice mixed. Pour over them the sago 
and bake until apples are soft. Serve with cream and sugar. 

|- c. pearl tapioca or i c. prepared tapiocas may be used in 
place of the sago required in this recipe. 

Baked rice pudding I. Wash the rice well. Put into a but- 
tered baking-dish with the other ingredients, cover, and bake 
2 to 3 hr. in a very slow oven. Stir occasionally, removing 
cover for the last hour in order that the pudding may brown. 



STARCH 



29 



Baked rice pudding II. Additional ingredient : 1 egg. Use 
cooked rice for the foundation. Mix all ingredients, adding 
beaten egg last, and bake in a moderate oven till firm. 

Caramel rice pudding. Use Baked rice pudding II and add 
\ c. well-caramelized sugar to the milk when scalded. 

Baked Indian pudding. Additional ingredients : | c. mo- 
lasses, 3 tb. butter. Scald 3 c. of the milk and pour it over 
the meal, molasses, butter, and salt. Cook in double boiler till 
mixture thickens, then turn into a buttered baking-dish. Add 
the remaining cup of milk (cold), without stirring. Bake 1^ hr. 
in a slow oven. 1 egg may be added with the cold milk if 
desired. 

FLOUR 

Source. Made from seeds of various grains, commonly wheat. 
Food Value. Contains starch and protein. 
Cost. Flour, 4 $ per lb. 4 c. = 1 lb. 

Sauces 







Milk 


Flour 


But- 
ter 


Salt 


Pep- 
per 


Onion 


Water 


Stock 


Price 


Drawn-butter sauce 


— 


3 tb. 


2tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


I c. 


— 




White sauce (thin) . . 


I c. 


i£tb. 


ftb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


— 




White sauce (medium) 


I c. 


2tb. 


itb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


— 




White sauce (thick) . 


I c. 


31b. 


litb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


— 




Brown sauce .... 


— 


4tb. 


2tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


i tsp. 


— 


1 c. 




Tomato sauce . . . 


— 


2 tb. 


itb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


1 tsp. 


— 


I c. 




Tomato cream sauce . 


$c. 


2tb. 


itb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


i c. 





General Directions. Milk must be scalded and other liquids 
hot, except in White sauce, Method 2. The kind of stock to 
be used is indicated by the name of the recipe. Use bread 
flour for thickening. 

Drawn-butter sauce. Mix flour with salt and pepper. Melt 
butter, stir in flour, then add water, i at a time. Boil sauce 
with every addition of water, beating each time until smooth. 



30 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Parsley sauce. Add I tb. chopped parsley to Drawn-butter 
sauce. 

Egg sauce. Add I hard-cooked egg, sliced, to Drawn-hitter 
sauce. 

White sauce (thin, medium, or thick). These sauces vary 
in thickness, and any one of them may be made by any of the 
following methods and used according to individual preference 
wherever a recipe, calls for white sauce. 

Method I. Melt butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour 
without removing the saucepan from the stove. Add l of the 
milk, stir until the mixture boils, then beat until the sauce is 
perfectly smooth ; add another third of the milk and repeat the 
stirring and beating ; then add remainder of milk, and when 
the sauce boils, season as required. This method develops the 
flavor of the sauce better than Method 2 and Method J. 

Method 2. Melt butter in a double boiler, stir in the flour. 
then add the milk (cold). Stir constantly till sauce thickens. 
Add seasonings. 

Method J. Scald | c. milk and mix the flour with remain- 
der of the milk before adding hot liquid. Cook at least 
15 min. in double boiler, stirring until thick. Butter and 
seasoning should be added last. This method of making is 
considered better for those of weak digestion. 

Mock hollandaise sauce. Make like White sauce (medium), 
Method I, using 2 tb. butter instead of 1 tb. Just before 
removing from fire add yolk of 1 egg mixed with a little of 
the sauce, and when ready to serve, stir in 1 tb. lemon juice. 

Cheese sauce. Add to White sauce (medium), Method 2, 
i c. chopped cheese and stir until melted. 

Brown sauce. Butter and onion should be cooked 5 min., 
then flour added and browned ; add liquid l at a time, as for 
White sauce, Method I. Onion may be omitted if desired, 
and 1 tsp. vinegar, catsup, or Worcestershire sauce added. 

Sauce piquante . Add to Brown sauce 1 tb. chopped cucumber 
pickles, 1 tb. vinegar, 1 tsp. walnut catsup, and 1 tsp. capers. 



STARCH 



31 



Tomato sauce. Make like Brown sauce (p. 30), but do not 
allow butter to brown. 

Tomato cream sauce. Additional ingredient: -^g tsp. soda. 
Add the soda to the hot tomato stock, and when bubbling 
ceases, stir the tomato, a little at a time, into a white sauce 
made from the remaining ingredients. 



Yeast Bread and Rolls 

Source. Universal. Made from cereals, ground into meal or 
flour ; their use in some form extends through the civilized 
world. 

Food Value. Largely for starch, but contain considerable pro- 
tein, and when served with butter provide a well-balanced food. 

Cost. 

Yeast cake, 2 $. 5-cent loaf = 20 to 24 slices 

Bread, 5 per loaf. 5-cent loaf =50. crumbs. 

Yeast. A microscopic plant, always present in the air. 
Grows and multiplies rapidly in a warm, moist, sweet, nitroge- 
nous soil. Given these, as in bread, its presence causes some 
of the starch to be changed to sugar and then into alcohol and 
carbon dioxide. These, in their attempt to escape, cause the 
dough to rise. 





White 
Flour 


Dark 

Flour 


Sugar 


But- 
ter 


Salt 


Yeast 
Cake 


Milk 


Water 


Price 


Water bread . . . 


5-6 c. 


— 


itb. 


4 tb. 


I tsp. 


i 


— 


2 c. 




Milk bread .... 


5-6 c. 


— 


1 tb. 


2tb. 


i tsp. 


i 


2 C. 


— 




Graham bread . . . 


ilc. 


lie. 


4 tb. 


— 


iitsp. 


i 





lie. 




Whole-wheat bread . 


I c. 


lie. 


ic 


itb. 


£tsp. 


i 





I c. 




Rolled-oats bread . . 


4-i c 


— 


ire. 


— 


iitsp. 


I 





2 £c. 




Raised flour muffins . 


4 c. 


— 


3tb. 


2tb. 


ftsp. 


I 


2 C. 


— 




Oatmeal muffins . . 


2-J- C. 


— 


3 tb. 


— 


i tsp. 


i 


I C. 


— 




Parker House rolls I 


5-6 c. 


— 


4tb. 


3 tb. 


iitsp. 


I 


2 C. 


— 




Luncheon rolls . . 


i| c. 


— 


.3 tb. 


itb. 


itsp. 


i 


ic. 


— 




Coffee rolls .... 


3 c 


— 


4tb. 


4 tb. 


itsp. 


i 


I c. 


— 






3 c 


— 


4 tb. 


4tb. 


itsp. 


1 


I c. 


— 




Breadsticks .... 


3 c 


— 


2 tb. 


3 tb. 


itsp. 


1 


I c. 


— 





32 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

General Directions. Amounts of flour given should be used 
cautiously, as different brands vary greatly. For all these recipes 
the yeast should be dissolved in lukewarm water (i yeast cake 
to \ c.) before using. Pour hot liquid over butter, sugar, and 
salt. Add yeast to the above mixture when it is lukewarm. 
For Water bread and Milk bread add enough flour to knead. 
For Graham bread and Whole-zvheat bread all the flour should 
be added and the whole well beaten. Set in a warm place, cover- 
ing the bowl well, and let stand 8 or 10 hr., or until double 
its bulk. Knead for a second time, then shape the dough or, 
for Graham bi'ead and Whole-wheat bread, beat well. Fill 
pans \ full, let rise until twice its original size, and bake in a 
moderate oven until it is light and well browned and there is 
no crackling in the loaf (45 to 75 min.). 

Water bread. Will make 2 loaves or 2 pans of biscuits. 
Use only enough flour to make a dough that can be handled 
easily, and knead until smooth and elastic. 

Milk bread. See Water bread (above). Half water and half 
milk may be used in place of 2 c. milk. 

Graham bread. Will make 1 loaf. Should rise in pans until 
a little less than twice original size. 

Whole- wheat bread. Proceed as for Graham bread (above). 

Rolled-oats bread. Additional ingredients : \ c. molasses, 
1 c. rolled oats. Add boiling water to rolled oats, let stand \ hr., 
and add other ingredients ; let rise overnight, beat thoroughly, 
turn into buttered bread-pans ; let rise again, and bake. 

Raised flour muffins. Additional ingredient : 1 egg. Add 
butter, sugar, and salt to hot milk ; when lukewarm add yeast 
cake to this mixture, then egg (well beaten) and flour. Beat 
thoroughly, cover, and let rise overnight. In the morning fill 
buttered gem-pans f full, let rise till pans are full, and bake 
30 min. in moderate oven. 

Oatmeal muffins. Additional ingredient: \ c. cold cooked 
oatmeal. Mix the hot milk with the oatmeal and proceed as 
for Raised flour muffins (above), omitting the egg. 



STARCH 33 

Parker House rolls I. Put milk, butter, sugar, and salt into 
a mixing-bowl. When lukewarm add yeast and 3 c. flour. 
Beat well, cover, and let rise till light. Add enough more 
flour to make dough stiff enough to knead, and let rise again. 
When double its bulk, knead again, roll out, shape, and let 
rise till light in buttered pan. Bake in hot oven 12 to 15 min. 
If made overnight, ^ yeast cake is enough. 

Luncheon rolls. Additional ingredients : I egg, I tb. lard, 

1 tsp. grated lemon rind. Add sugar, salt, and shortening to 
milk. When lukewarm add yeast and 1 c. flour. Cover and let 
rise ; then add egg, lemon rind, and enough flour to knead, and 
let rise again. Roll A in. thick, shape with biscuit-cutter, place 
in buttered pan ; let rise again, and bake. 

Coffee rolls. Additional ingredients : 1 egg, ^ c. raisins 
(cut fine). Pour the hot milk over the butter, sugar, and salt. 
When lukewarm add the yeast, raisins, egg (well beaten), and 
flour enough to knead. Knead till smooth and elastic and let 
rise overnight. Roll out in a thin sheet, brush with melted 
butter, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, and roll like a jelly 
roll. Cut in small slices, place close together in a buttered 
baking-pan, let rise till double their bulk, and bake about 
30 min. in a hot oven. The process may be completed in a 
day if 1 yeast cake is used. The dough may be spread in a 
large pan, brushed over with 1 egg, and, after rising, may be 
covered with the following mixture : 3 tb. butter, 2 tb. sugar, 

2 tb. flour, 1 tsp. cinnamon. When baked it should be broken 
into small squares. 

Buns. Additional ingredient : \ c. raisins (stoned and quar- 
tered). Add the sugar, salt, and butter to the milk ; when luke- 
warm add yeast and lie. flour ; cover and let rise till light ; 
then add raisins and flour to make a soft dough. Let rise, 
shape like biscuit ; let rise again, and bake. May be glazed by 
brushing with egg before baking. 

Breadsticks. Additional ingredient: white of I egg. Add 
butter, sugar, and salt to milk ; when lukewarm add yeast, egg 



34 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



(well beaten), and the flour. Knead till very elastic, and when 
well risen shape in long, slender rolls. Let rise again and 
bake in a hot oven. 

Uses of Stale Bread 

Toast 
Source. General. 

Food Value. Contains starch and protein. 

Cost See individual prices. 





Bread 


But- 
ter 


Boiling 
Water 


Milk 


Flour 


Egg 


Salt 


Sugar 


Tomato 


Price 


Plain toast 


8 slices 


4 tb. 


















Hot-water 






















toast . . . 


S slices 


4 tb. 


2 C. 


— 


— 


— 


I tsp. 


— 


— 




Cream toast . 


8 slices 


2tb. 


— 


2 C. 


4tb. 


— 


£tsp. 


— 


— 




Egg toast . . 


8 slices 


— 


— 


I C. 


— 


I 


itsp. 


2 tb. 


— 




Tomato cream 






















toast . . . 


8 slices 


4tb. 


— 


I C. 


4tb. 


— 


i tsp. 


— 


I C. 




Croutons . . 


2 slices 


2 tb. 












k 






Croustade 




















cases . . . 


4 slices 


4 tb. 



















General Directions. For toast, cut bread in slices of uniform 
thickness, put into toaster, hold some distance from fire until 
dried through, then brown quickly on both sides. In a gas 
stove bread may be put into large baking-pan in broiling-oven, 
but must be carefully watched and turned. (Old pieces of bread 
may be dried, rolled, sifted, and kept in jars to use for frying 
or scalloped dishes. Cover with cheesecloth.) 

Plain toast. Toast bread ; butter, and send to table at once. 

Hot-water toast. Toast bread ; put butter and salt in a 
shallow dish, pour over them the boiling water, dip each slice 
quickly in this, using a knife and fork. Send to table hot, with 
slices piled on top of each other. 

Cream toast. Toast bread ; make a white sauce of remain- 
ing ingredients ; dip each slice of toast into this, put in a 



STARCH 35 

covered dish, and strain the rest of the sauce over the toast. 
Toast may be buttered before dipping. 

Egg toast. Beat egg, add sugar, salt, and milk. Dip slices 
of bread separately into this mixture, and when all have been 
softened, brown on both sides on a hot, well-greased griddle 
or frying-pan. Use only enough fat to keep bread from 
sticking. Serve for breakfast or lunch or, with a sweet sauce, 
for dessert. 

Cheese sandwiches may be made by the following recipe : 
Omit sugar, and after browning toast lay thin slices of cheese 
between 2 slices of toast, sprinkle with salt and paprika, and 
place in oven till cheese is melted. 

Tomato cream toast. Additio7ial ingredient: \ tsp. soda. 
Heat tomato, add soda, stir, and strain. Add this to sauce 
made from other ingredients, season, and proceed as for 
Cream toast (p. 34). Serve immediately. 

Croutons. Use stale bread and cut about f in. thick. Butter 
well, using softened or melted butter. Cut in strips -| in. wide, 
then cut these in cubes. Bake in a moderate oven till golden 
brown, shaking the pan occasionally. 

DncJicss crusts. Brown the strips of bread, making them 
A in. wide. Grated cheese may be spread on the crusts before 
baking. Season with cayenne pepper. 

Croustade cases. Cut slices of bread 2 in. thick. Stamp 
rounds from these with a cooky-cutter and scoop out the inside, 
leaving a shell. Brush over with melted butter and brown. 
Oblong cases may be made by dividing slices of bread in halves 
and scooping out the center. Fill with creamed vegetables, 
fish, or meat. 

Scalloped Dishes 
Source. General. 

Food Value. Bread contains starch ; the other ingredients 
are valuable for protein or mineral salts. 

Cost. See market prices and prices of individual items. 



36 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 





Founda- 
tion 


But- 
ter 


Salt 


Onion 


But- 
tered 
Crumbs 


Pepper 


Milk 


Flour 


Stock 


Price 


Scalloped meat 


2 C. 


2 tb. 


I tsp. 


I tb. 


I C. 


i tsp. 


— 


6tb. 


2 c. 




Scalloped to- 
























2 C. 


2 tb. 


i tsp. 


— 


I c. 


Jgtsp. 


— 


— 


— 




Scalloped fish 


2 C. 


2 tb. 


i tsp. 


i tsp. 


I c. 


Jgtsp. 


2 C 


4tb. 


— 




Scalloped veg- 






















etables . . 


2 C. 


2tb. 


i tsp. 


— 


*c. 


iVtSP- 


2 C. 


4 tb. 


— 




Scalloped apple 






















pudding . . 


2 C. 


— 


£tsp. 


— 


I c. 


— 


— 


— 


— 





General Directions. Prepare crumbs by drying in oven, roll- 
ing, and sifting. For buttered crumbs mix each cupful with 
3 tb. melted butter. Put a few crumbs in bottom of a buttered 
baking-dish or ramekins, then put ^ the food used as a foundation 
(with seasonings), and repeat the process, reserving at least ^ 
the crumbs for the top layer. Milk or stock should be made 
into a sauce with the butter and flour and mixed with meat, 
fish, or vegetables. Bake about 20 min. in a moderate oven. 

Scalloped meat. Meat should be finely chopped and mixed 
with a brown sauce made of the other ingredients before putting 
into the dish with the crumbs. Stewed and strained tomato 
may be substituted for the stock ; or if chicken or veal be the 
foundation, the liquid used may be milk, and a speck of nutmeg 
may be added for seasoning. 

Scalloped tomato. Use fresh sliced or canned tomatoes and 
follow General Directions. 

Scalloped fish. Prepare fish, carefully removing all skin, 
bones, and oily meat. Scald onion in milk and a bit of bay 
leaf if desired, strain, and use for the white sauce ; then proceed 
according to General Directions. 

Scalloped vegetables. Cooked celery, cabbage, cauliflower, 
or onions may be used. Measure first three after cooking, and 
allow 8 medium onions. 

Scalloped apple pudding. Additional ingredients : |c. sugar, 
\ tsp. cinnamon. Slice or chop pared and quartered apples. 



STARCH 



37 



Mix sugar and cinnamon, and proceed according to General 
Directions, using sugar and spice in place of salt and pepper. 
Bake till apples are soft (30 to 45 min.), and serve with a hot 
or cold pudding sauce. 

Bread Puddings 
Source. General. 

Food Value. Largely for starch and sugar. Milk and eggs 

supply protein. 

Cost. See market prices and prices of individual items. 





Milk 


Bread 


Sugar 


Salt 


Fruit 


Flavor- 
ing 


But- 
ter 


Eggs 


Flour 


Price 


Fruit bread pud- 






















ding .... 


2 c. 


2 c. 


— 


itsp. 


ic. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


— 




Chocolate bread 






















pudding . . . 


2 C. 


2 C. 


$C. 


itsp. 


— 


i tsp. 


— 


— 


— 




Plain bread pud- 






















ding .... 


2 C. 


I C. 


}c. 


itsp. 


— 


i tsp. 


i tb. 


I 


— 




Queen of pud- 






















dings .... 


2 C. 


I c. 


he. 


itsp. 


— 


1 tsp. 


1 tb. 


2 


— 




Lemon pudding . 


2 C. 


1 c 


i c 

3 °" 


itsp. 


— 


2 tb. 


— 


2 


1 tb. 




Berry pudding . 


— 


Sslices 


*c. 


itsp. 


2 C. 


— 


4 tb. 


— 


— 




Dresden sand- "i 
wiches j 


I c. 


8-10 
slices 


2 tb. 


Itsp. 


i£c. 


— 


2tb. 


2 


— 





Fruit bread pudding. Additional ingredient : ^ c. molasses. 
Flavor with spice. Break stale (not dry) bread in small pieces 
and pour over them about ^ the scalded milk ; when soft, mash 
them and add rest of milk. Let stand 10 min., stir in other 
ingredients, using equal parts currants, raisins, and citron for 
the fruit. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish until milk is ab- 
sorbed. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60). Brown sugar may be 
used instead of the molasses. 

Chocolate bread pudding. Additional ingredients : 1 oz. 
chocolate, \ c. milk. Flavor with vanilla. Make as directed 
for Fruit bread pudding (above), melting chocolate with sugar 
and the extra milk and adding when mixture has stood 10 min. 
Serve with whipped cream. 



38 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Plain bread pudding. Use only the crumb of the bread. 
Make like Fruit bread pudding (p. 37), melting butter in the 
hot milk and adding beaten egg last. Flavor with vanilla or 
lemon. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60) or Creamy sauce 
(p. 60). If a meringue is desired, use 2 eggs for the pud- 
ding and reserve the whites for the meringue. Omit sauce 
if a meringue is used. 

Queen of puddings. Soak bread crumbs in hot milk till 
soft and mash them. Add egg yolks and other ingredi- 
ents and bake in buttered dish or cups. When almost done, 
cover with jelly and a meringue made from the whites of the 
eggs and 5 tb. powdered sugar. Bake 8 min. in a moderate 
oven. 

Lemon pudding. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. powdered 
sugar, grated rind of 1 lemon. Scald milk and crumbs to- 
gether, using no crusts. Mix sugar and flour, add egg yolks, 
and when blended stir the hot milk into the mixture. Cook 
like a custard, and when mixture thickens set away to cool. 
When quite cold flavor with lemon juice and the grated lemon 
rind. Beat whites of eggs stiff, add the powdered sugar, heap 
lightly on the pudding, and serve at once. 

Berry pudding. Use blueberries, huckleberries, raspberries, 
or blackberries. (In winter canned berries may be used.) Stew 
the fruit with the sugar, adding a little water if necessary. 
Butter the bread, lay 2 slices in the bottom of a melon mold, 
cover with the hot fruit, and add remainder of the materials 
in layers. Chill thoroughly, remove from mold, and serve with 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. 

Hot berry pudding. Use same ingredients as for Bei'ry 
pudding. Place alternate layers of bread and fruit in a but- 
tered baking-dish and bake till the bread has absorbed the 
liquid. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60) or Creamy sauce (p. 60). 

Dresden sandwiches. Make an uncooked custard of egg yolks, 
sugar, salt, and milk. Dip the slices of bread in this and brown 
on both sides in the hot butter. For filling use stewed apricots 



STARCH 



39 



or peaches or jelly, jam, or marmalade. Put 2 slices of the 
toast together with fruit between and serve with Orange sauce 
(p. 60) or Apricot sauce (p. 60). 

Fried Cakes, Fritters, etc. 

Source. General. 

Food Value. A source of fat and carbohydrates. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Flour 


Baking- 
powder 


Salt 


Sugar 


But- 
ter 


Milk 


Eggs 


Yeast 
Cake 


Water 


Price 


Buckwheat cakes 


2 C 


— 


i tsp. 


— 


— 


— 


— 


i 


2±C. 




Raised waffles 


2 C. 


— 


i tsp. 


1 tb. 


1 tb. 


1 c. 


I 


i 


2 tb. 




Plain waffles . . 


2 C. 


3 tsp. 


i tsp. 


1 tb. 


2 tb. 


lie. 


2 


— 


— 




Griddlecakes . . 


2 C. 


4 tsp. 


1 tsp. 


2 tb. 


2 tsp. 


if c. 


2 


— 


— 




Bread griddle- 






















cakes .... 


I C. 


3 tsp. 


1 tsp. 


1 tb. 


— 


2 C. 


2 


— 


— 








3 tsp. 
2 tsp. 


1 tsp. 

2 tsp. 


% c. 


2 tb. 




., 








Corn fritters . . 


I C. 




1 tb. 


\c 


2 


— 


— 




Fruit fritters . . 


lb C. 


i£tsp. 


itsp. 


2 tb. 


itb. 


i-c. 


2 


— 


— 





General Directions. Dry ingredients should be sifted, the sugar 
with them except in Doughnuts. If eggs are not separated, 
they may be combined with milk after being beaten. Butter 
should be melted and added last, just before whites of eggs. To 
saute (brown on both sides in shallow fat) the first five mix- 
tures, use a heavy frying-pan, griddle, or waffle iron. Grease 
well with salt pork, drippings, or butter. If latter is used, re- 
move pan to back of stove when adding fresh fat, then reheat. 
Use only enough fat to keep food from sticking. For the dough- 
nuts and the fritters use lard, or any lard substitute ; butter is 
unsuitable. Put fat in a deep kettle, having plenty to cover the 
food. For full directions for frying see Frying (p. 99) and 
Croquettes (p. 99) and follow carefully. 

Buckwheat cakes. Additional ingredients : buckwheat flour 
should be used, also 4 tb. corn meal, 2 tb. molasses, \ tsp. soda. 



40 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Sift all dry ingredients except the soda. Add yeast dissolved in 
a little of the water, then the lukewarm water and molasses. 
Beat well, let rise overnight, and in the morning stir in the 
soda and beat well. Cook by the spoonful on a hot, well- 
greased griddle. 

Raised waffles. Mix like Raised flour muffins (p. 32), 
omitting the egg. When well risen add the egg and cook in 
a well-greased waffle iron till brown. Serve with butter and 
sugar or sirup. 

Plain waffles. Sift dry ingredients ; add milk to beaten 
egg yolks and combine the two mixtures. Then add the butter 
(melted) and the whites of eggs (beaten stiff). Cook and serve 
as for Raised waffles (above). 

Griddlecakes. Mix like Plain waffles (above) and cook by 
the spoonful on a hot, well-greased griddle. 2 c. sour milk and 
1 tsp. bicarbonate of soda may be substituted for the sweet milk 
and baking-powder. The eggs need not be separated and are 
sometimes omitted if sour milk is used. 

Bread griddlecakes. Additional ingredient: 2 c. soft bread 
crumbs. Scald milk and pour it over the bread crumbs. Let 
stand till cool and proceed as for Plain waffles (above). Cook 
on a griddle as for Griddlecakes (above). 

Doughnuts. Additional ingredient: \ tsp. spice (either 
nutmeg or cinnamon or a combination of both). Beat the eggs 
light without separating and add the sugar and the butter 
(melted) ; then add the milk and lastly the dry ingredients sifted 
together. More flour may be used to make the mixture stiff 
enough to roll out, but it should be kept as soft as possible. 
It will roll more easily if chilled on ice before handling. Divide 
into quarters and roll out one quarter at a time. Cut with a 
floured doughnut-cutter and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown 
paper. Stir the trimmings into the next quarter of dough and 
proceed as before till all dough is used. The fat should be hot 
enough to brown a bit of bread while counting 60. The dough- 
nuts may be sprinkled with sugar after being fried. 



STARCH 



41 



Corn fritters. Additional ingredients : 1 c. corn, A tsp. pa- 
prika. Use canned corn, or cold cooked corn cut from the cob ; 
chop it and add the milk. Stir in the dry ingredients and 
when well mixed add the eggs, well beaten. Drop by the 
spoonful into hot fat, and when brown drain on brown paper. 
Test the fat as for Doughnuts (p. 40). 

Com oysters. Make like Com fritters, omitting I egg and 
the milk and using i c. flour with less seasoning. Cook on a 
hot, well-greased griddle. 

Fruit fritters. Additional ingredient : 1 to I A c. fruit, cut 
in small pieces. Make a batter as for Griddlecakes (p. 40) ; stir 
the fruit into this and fry by the spoonful in hot fat. Bananas, 
apples, oranges, pears, or peaches may be used. Use bread 
flour. 

Steamed Mixtures 
Source. General. 

Food Value. Same as for Fried Cakes, Fritters, etc. 
Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Flour 


Milk 


Molasses 


Baking- 
powder 


Soda 


Salt 


But- 
ter 


Eggs 


Fruit 


Price 


Brown bread . 


3 c - 


2 C. 


% C 
3 *-• 


— 


2 tsp. 


I tsp. 








— 




Graham pud- 






















ding . . . 
Suet pudding . 
Steamed batter 


iic. 
2 c. 


I C 

3 '-• 

4 c 


1 c 

3 u " 

J- C 

2 <-• 

Sugar 


— 


itsp. 

i.tsp. 


1 tsp. 
1 tsp. 


3 tb. 


I 


I C. 




pudding . . 
Apple pudding 
Chocolate pud- 


2 C. 
2 C. 


1 c 

I C. 


fc. 


3 tsp. 
3 tsp. 


— 


itsp. 
itsp. 


ic 
ic. 


I 


2 C 




ding .... 
Dumplings . . 


2 C. 
2 C. 


I C. 

& C 
3 *-• 


fc. 


4 tsp. 

5 tsp. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


4 tb. 
1 tb. 


I 


— 





General Directions. Dry ingredients to be sifted unless other- 
wise directed. Molds to be well greased, filled | full, and 
tightly covered. Must be placed in boiling water on a trivet, 
or many thicknesses of brown paper, and water must be kept 
boiling during time required for cooking. If it boils away, 



42 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

replace with boiling water. Suet should be washed and the 
membranes removed before chopping. 

Brown bread. For the 3 c. of flour use equal parts of 
rye, whole wheat, and corn meal. Mix like any batter. These 
proportions are for sour milk ; sweet milk or water may be 
substituted, using il to if c. Steam in brown-bread mold, 
with tube in center, for 3 hrs. 

Graham pudding. Additional ingredients : 1 tsp. cinnamon, 
i- tsp. nutmeg, \ tsp. cloves. Use graham flour. The fruit may 
be all raisins, or a mixture of raisins, currants, and citron, or 
for a plain pudding it may be omitted. The mixture should 
be combined as usual, adding the fruit to the dry ingredients. 
Steam 3 hr. in buttered mold. Serve with Hard saicce (p. 60) 
or Foamy sauce (p. 60). 

Suet pudding. Additional ingredients: |- c. finely chopped 
suet, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 1 tsp. each of nutmeg, cloves, and ginger. 
Chop the suet into the dry ingredients, then stir in the liquids. 
Turn into a buttered mold, steam 3 hr., and serve with Egg 
sauce (p. 60). 1 c. figs or dates cut in strips may be added. 

Plum pudding. Make as for Suet pudding, adding 1 1 c. 
raisins or mixed fruit, floured with 2 tb. flour. Serve with 
Foamy sa?ice (p. 60) or Hard sauce (p. 60). 

Steamed batter pudding. Cream the butter, add the sugar, 
then the egg (well beaten), the milk, and the dry ingredients. 
Steam 2 hr. in a mold. Serve with Apple sauce (p. 9) and 
whipped cream or with Chocolate sauce (p. 60). 

Apple pudding. Mix like cake, add the apple (cut thin), and 
steam for 2 hr. in a mold. Serve with any desired pudding sauce. 

Steamed berry pudding. Pick over carefully and wash blue- 
berries or huckleberries, measure 2 c, and add to pudding made 
as for Apple pudding, omitting apples. Serve with Hard 
sauce (p. 60) or Foamy sauce (p. 60). 

Chocolate pudding. Additional ingredient : 2 oz. chocolate. 
Mix like Steamed batter pudding (above), adding melted choco- 
late last. Steam 2 hr. Serve with Hard sauce (p. 60). 



STARCH 



43 



Dumplings. Use either milk or water. Sift dry ingredients 
and chop in the butter with a knife, then add the liquid, using 
enough to make a soft dough. Roll about | in. thick, cut with 
a small circular cutter, place in a well-greased steamer, and cook 
20 to 30 min. over boiling water. Butter may be omitted. May 
be served with a stew or used with Foamy sauce (p. 60) or 
Fruit sauce (p. 59) for a pudding. 



Muffins 
Source. General. 

Food Value. A source of starch and sugar. 
Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 



















Dark 








Flour 


Sugar 


Salt 


Baking- 
powder 


But- 
ter 


Milk 


Eggs 


Flour 

or 
Meal 


Cereal 


Price 


Plain muffins . . 


2 C. 


4 tb. 


1 tsp. 


4 tsp. 


3 tb. 


I c. 


2 


— 


— 




Shirley muffins . 


2 C. 


be. 


I tsp. 


4 tsp. 


4 tb. 


1 c 

8 '-• 


2 


— 


— 




Gorn-meal muffins 


I C. 


1 c 

3 "-• 


itsp. 


4 tsp. 


1 tb. 


I c. 


2 


ic. 


— 




Cereal muffins . 


I C. 


— 


£ tsp. 


4 tsp. 


1 tb. 


£ c 

3 "-• 


I 


— 


I c. 




Rice muffins . . 


2 C. 


6tb. 


itsp. 


4 tsp. 


2 tb. 


I c. 


2 


— 


{c. 




Berry muffins . . 


2 C. 


fc. 


J- tsp. 


4 tsp. 


4 tb. 


I c. 


2 


— 


— 




Graham muffins . 


I C. 


5 tb. 


1 tsp. 


4 tsp. 


2 tb. 


I c. 


2 


I c. 


— 




Corn cake . . . 


I C. 


|c. 


|tsp. 


4 tsp. 


4 tb. 


I c. 


2 


I c. 


— 





General Directions. Have pans well buttered. Sift the dry in- 
gredients ; add milk and egg yolks, then the melted butter, and 
lastly fold in the well-beaten white of egg. For Shirley muffins, 
Corn-meal muffins, Berry muffins, and Graham muffins I egg may 
be used and amount of flour increased slightly. If only 1 egg 
is used, it need not be separated. Bake 20 to 30 min. in a 
rather hot oven. Recipes should make 1 2 medium-sized muffins. 

Plain muffins. Follow General Directions. 

Shirley muffins. Cream the butter, add the sugar, then 
the egg (well beaten). Sift dry ingredients and add to first 
mixture alternately with the milk. 

Corn-meal muffins. Follow General Directions. 



44 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Cereal muffins. Additional ingredients : ^ c. molasses, |- c. 
graham flour. Use any cold cooked cereal and work it into 
the sifted dry ingredients with the tips of the fingers. Mix 
the milk with the molasses. 

Rice muffins. Use cold boiled rice and mix according to 
General Directions, stirring rice into dry ingredients. 

Berry muffins. Additional ingredients : I c. berries, 2 tb. 
flour. Make like Shirley muffins (p. 43). Mix the 2 tb. flour 
with the berries, which should be added last. 

Graham muffins. Use graham or whole-wheat flour. Follow 
General Directions for mixing. 

Corn cake. Follow General Directions for mixing and bake 
in a shallow, well-greased pan. Break in squares for serving, 
using a fork to separate the pieces. 

Baking-powder Biscuits and Breads 

Source. General. 

Food Value. Chiefly for carbohydrates. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Flour 


Baking- 
powder 


Salt 


Sugar 


But- 
ter 


Milk 


Graham 
Flour 


Eggs 


Fruit 


Price 


Emergency 
























2 C. 


4 tsp. 


£tsp. 




2 tb. 


I C. 











Baking-powder 


















biscuits . . . 


2 C. 


4 tsp. 


£tsp. 


— 


2 tb. 


f c. 


— 


— 


— 




Shortcake . . . 


2 C. 


4 tsp. 


\ tsp. 


1 tb. 


4 tb. 


f c 


— 


— 


— 




Fruit rolls . . . 


2 C. 


4 tsp. 


itsp. 


4 tb. 


3 tb. 


f c 


— 


— 


ic. 




Dutch apple cake 


2 C. 


4 tsp. 


\ tsp. 


3-c. 


4tb. 


I c. 


— 


I 


i|c. 




Nut bread . . . 


2 C. 


3 ts P- 


1 tsp. 


i-c. 


— 


fc 


— 


1 


— 




Quick graham 






















bread .... 


I C. 


— 


1 tsp. 


— 


— 


lie. 


2 C. 


— 


— 





General Directions. Sift all the dry ingredients, chop in the 
butter with a case knife, and then stir in the milk, adding it 
cautiously, since some flours absorb less than others. The 
butter may be melted and added last if preferred. 



STARCH 45 

Emergency biscuits. Drop by the spoonful into buttered gem- 
pans and bake 15 to 20 min. in a moderate oven. Use more 
milk if batter is very thick. A c. scalded, dried, and sliced 
dates may be added. 

Baking-powder biscuits. Use only enough milk to make a 
dough that can be easily handled. Turn quickly onto a well- 
floured board, roll dough back and forth in the flour until well 
covered, then pat lightly with a rolling-pin, making the dough 
about I in. thick. With a floured cutter, cut as many biscuits 
as possible and place in a buttered pan. Put trimmings back 
into bowl, mix with knife, and repeat rolling and cutting. 
Bake 1 5 to 20 min. in a hot oven. 

Whole-wheat biscuits or Graham bisc?iits. Use I c. white 
flour, I c. dark flour, and 2 tb. sugar, and make like Baking- 
powder biscuits. 

Shortcake. Prepare as for Baking-powder biscuits (above). 
When dough is well floured divide in two parts. Shape one 
piece to fill a round, shallow pan, and brush over with melted 
butter. Shape the second piece of dough and place it on the 
first. Bake 20 to 30 min. When slightly cool, split, butter, 
and fill with stewed or fresh fruit, sweetened. Whipped cream 
may be put on top just before serving. The dough is some- 
times shaped as for biscuits, but rolled a little thinner, and 
two biscuits put together to make individual shortcakes. 

Fruit rolls. Additional ingredient: \ tsp. cinnamon. Make 
like Shortcake (above), using no sugar in mixing and only half 
the butter. Mix sugar, spice, and currants or raisins. Roll out 
the dough, keeping it as nearly square as possible. Spread 
with remainder of butter, sprinkle with the sugar mixture, roll 
up, cut in slices, place them cut-side down on a buttered pan, 
and bake 15 min. in a moderate oven. 

Dutch apple cake. Additional ingredient: \ tsp. cinnamon. 
Apples or peaches may be used for fruit. Mix like Emergency 
biscuits (above), reserving 2 tb. of the sugar and mixing 
remainder with dry ingredients. Add the beaten egg last. 



4 6 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Spread the dough in a shallow, buttered baking-pan or in 
gem-pans, and press the sliced fruit into it in rows. Sprinkle 
with the cinnamon mixed with remaining sugar, and bake in a 
moderate oven 25 to 30 min. Serve as bread for luncheon or 
supper, or as a dessert with Lemon sauce (p. 59) of Foamy 
sauce (p. 60). 

Nut bread. Additional ingredient: \ c. nuts (walnuts or 
peanuts) put through coarse meat-chopper. Mix like Emergency 
biscuits (p. 45), adding the chopped nuts to sifted dry in- 
gredients. Beat well, pour into a well-buttered bread-pan, let 
stand 20 min., and bake 45 to 60 min. in a moderate oven. 

Quick graham bread. Additional ingredients : 1 c. molas- 
ses, 1 tsp. soda. Use sour milk. 1 c. chopped nuts may be 
added if desired. Combine the liquids and mix like Emergency 
biscuits (p. 45). Bake in a well-buttered pan, in a moderate oven, 
for about 60 min. 

Batter Puddings 

Source. General. 

Food Value. For carbohydrates. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 



Flour 



Sugar 



Salt 



But- 
ter 



Baking- 
powder 



Ber- 
ries 



Price 



Pop-overs . . . 
Cottage pudding 
Orange puffs . . 



1 c. 

2 c. 
ifc. 



itsp. — 



f c 



itsp. 
itsp. 



4 tb. 



4 tsp. 
3 tsp. 



I c. 
I c. 

ic. 



Pop-overs. Mix flour and salt, add milk slowly, and beat 
until smooth. Beat the eggs light, add to first mixture, and beat 
with egg-beater for 2 min. Pour at once into hot well-buttered 
baking-cups or gem-pans, bake in a hot oven 30 to 40 min. 
Serve hot as muffins, or, with a sweet pudding sauce, for dessert. 

Cottage pudding. Sift dry ingredients. Cream the butter, 
add sugar gradually, then the egg (well-beaten). Stir in the 
milk, then the dry ingredients; beat well, and bake in a well- 
buttered cake-pan or gem-pans 25 to 35 min. Serve with 



STARCH 



47 



mashed and sweetened strawberries or peaches, stewed fruit, 
Chocolate sauce (p. 60), or Hard sauce (p. 60). 

Baked berry ptidding. Make as for Cottage ptidding and 
add 2 c. blueberries or huckleberries just before putting pud- 
ding in pan. Berries should be picked over, washed, and 
slightly floured before using. Serve with Lemon sauce (p. 59), 
Foamy sauce (p. 60), or Hard sauce (p. 60). 

Orange puffs. Additional ingredients : rind and pulp of 
two oranges, 1 tb. orange juice. Make as for Cottage pudding 
(p. 46) and add the grated orange rind and the juice last. Bake 
in gem- pans and serve with Orange sauce (p. 60) made with 
the orange pulp. 

Cookies and Wafers 
Source. General. 

Food Value. For carbohydrates and fat. 
Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Flour 


SUGAR 


Salt 


Baking- 
powder 


Milk 


But- 
ter 


Eggs 


Spice 


Mo- 
lasses 


Price 


Molasses cookies 


4 c. 





I tsp. 


— 


ic 


ic. 


— 


2 tsp. 


I c. 




Sugar cookies . . 


3 C - 


lie 
1 3 I.. 


itsp. 


3 ts P- 


ire. 


f c - 


2 


itsp. 


— 




Chocolate cookies 


2*C. 


I c. 


itsp. 


2 tsp. 


ic. 


ic. 


I 





— 




Filled cookies . . 


3i c - 


I c. 


itsp. 


4 tsp. 


|c. 


ic. 


I 


— 


— 




Peanut cookies . 


1 c. 


fc. 


itsp. 


2 tsp. 


ic. 


4tb. 


2 


— 


— 




Ginger wafers . . 


2 c. 


1 c. 


— 


— 


ic. 


ic. 


— 


i tsp. 


— 




Nut wafers . . . 


2 c. 


I c. 


itsp. 


2 tsp. 


ire. 


J- c 

3 u " 


I 


— 


— 




Hermits . . . . 


2 C. 


I c. 


itsp. 


2 tsp. 


3 tb. 


J - c 


I 


1 tsp. 


— 




Jumbles . . . . 


3C 


I c. 


i-tsp. 


4 tsp. 


ic. 


6tb. 


2 


ftsp. 


— 




Ginger snaps . . 


3i c - 


— 


1 tsp. 





— 


3 c 
3 '"• 





2 tsp. 


I c. 





General Directions. For all these mixtures containing sugar, 
the shortening should be creamed and the sugar added grad- 
ually. Add the egg (beaten) ; then add the milk and the sifted 
dry ingredients alternately. When sifting dry ingredients, re- 
serve part of flour in case all is not needed. The shortening 
may be all butter or a mixture of butter and lard or sweet 
drippings. Any preferred spice may be used and amounts 



48 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

varied to suit individual tastes. Molasses cookies may be made 
with all lard or drippings. Add only enough flour to make the 
dough stiff enough to handle ; too much will make the cookies 
tough and hard. Roll out only a small portion at a time and 
keep the remainder cool till ready to use. Add the trimmings 
to a fresh portion of the dough. For thin cookies and wafers 
the dough should be chilled on ice before using. Shape with 
a floured cutter and bake on well-greased sheets or inverted 
dripping-pans. Cookies require a rather quick oven. 

Molasses cookies. Add soda to molasses and beat thor- 
oughly, then add milk, shortening (melted), and other ingredi- 
ents. Use enough flour to make a soft dough, which must be 
chilled. Roll ^ in. thick. Bake 10 to 12 min. 

Sugar cookies. Mix according to General Directions and 
roll very thin. Bake about 10 min. 

Chocolate cookies. Additional ingredient : 2 oz. chocolate. 
Melt the chocolate and add to the mixture before adding the 
flour and milk. Proceed as for Sugar cookies (above). 

Filled cookies. Mix as directed for Sugar cookies (above) 
and roll about i in. thick. Place two cookies together with a 
spoonful of jelly, marmalade, or the following mixture between. 
Bake 12 to 15 min. 

Filling. 1 c. raisins, i c. sugar, i c. water, 1 tb. flour. Mix 
sugar and flour with the water, add the raisins (chopped), and 
cook till thick. 

Peanut cookies. Additional ingredient : \ c. chopped pea- 
nuts. Mix like Sugar cookies (above), adding peanuts to dry in- 
gredients and having the dough soft enough to drop from tip of 
teaspoon onto a buttered pan. Allow room for mixture to spread. 
Place ^ peanut on each and bake 10 min. in a moderate oven. 

Ginger wafers. Additional ingredient : \ tsp. soda. Dough 
should be soft enough to spread with a knife on an inverted 
dripping-pan. Bake quickly and cut in squares as soon as it 
is taken from the oven. Run a broad-bladed knife under the 
wafers, holding it very flat, to remove them from the pan. 



STARCH 



49 



Nut wafers. Additional ingredients : |-tsp. vanilla, -|c. nuts 
(almonds or walnuts). Mix like Sugar cookies (p. 48), roll 
very thin, cut with small cutter, place i nut on each wafer, 
and bake a delicate brown. A mixture of butter and lard is 
desirable for the shortening. 

Hermits. Additional ingredient : ^ c. raisins, stoned and cut 
small, added to the creamed butter and sugar. Allow twice as 
much cinnamon as of clove and nutmeg for the teaspoonful 
of spice. Roll about | in. thick. Cut and bake as usual. 

Jumbles. Mix according to General Directions, roll i in. 
thick, and bake about 10 min. in a hot oven. 

Ginger snaps. Additional ingredient : i tsp. soda. Heat 
molasses and shortening to boiling point. Add dry ingredients, 
mixed and sifted. Chill thoroughly and roll very thin. Cut with 
a small round cutter and bake in a moderate oven. 

* Sponge Cakes etc. 

Source. General. 

Food Value. Chiefly for carbohydrates. Contain some protein. 
Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 



Water sponge cake 
Cheap sponge cake 
Rich sponge cake . 
Sponge drops . . 
Angel cake . . . 
Creamcakes . . . 



Flour 



lie. 
I c. 
I c. 
ic. 

f c. 
I c. 



Sugar 



1 c. 
I c. 

I c. 

|c. 
fc 



Eggs 



Baking- 
powder 



ii tsp. 
lk tsp. 



Salt 



itsp. 
itsp. 
itsp. 
itsp. 
i-tsp. 



Flavor- 
ing 



itsp. 
2 tsp. 
1 tb. 
itsp. 
f tsp. 



3tb. 
i tb. 



*c. 



But- 
ter 



u. 



Price 



General Directions. Separate the eggs ; beat the whites stiff 
and the yolks till light-colored and thick. Add the sugar to 
the beaten yolks unless otherwise directed, then all the liquid 
if rule calls for it. Stir in other dry ingredients and fold in 
the whites lightly. 



50 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Water sponge cake. Flavor with lemon extract and bake 
25 min. in a buttered and floured shallow pan. For cream 
pies etc. use two round pans. When cake is cool, split and fill. 
Dries quickly, but is good if used at once. 

Cheap sponge cake. Use vinegar for flavoring and bake 
35 min. in a moderate oven in a buttered and floured cake-pan. 
Does not keep well, so should be used at once. 

Rich sponge cake. Use lemon juice as flavoring ; a little 
grated lemon rind may also be added. Bake 30 to 40 min. in 
a moderate oven in a buttered and floured deep pan, preferably 
one with a tube. 

Sponge drops. Use vanilla for flavoring. Beat the whites 
of eggs till stiff and dry, then add sugar and continue beating. 
Mix in the yolks (well beaten), then flavor, and cut and fold 
in the dry ingredients. Shape with a teaspoon on unbuttered 
paper, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and bake 8 min. in a 
moderate oven. 

Lady fingers. Make like Sponge drops and shape long and 
narrow with a pastry bag or a spoon. 

Angel cake. Use whites of eggs only, flavor with vanilla, 
and add 1 tsp. cream of tartar to whites of eggs while beating. 
Beat till stiff, then add sugar gradually. Fold in flour, mixed 
and sifted 4 times with the salt, add vanilla, and bake 35 to 
45 min. in an unbuttered tube pan. (Only a pan that has 
never been buttered can be used in this way. Others must be 
buttered, but the crust of the cake will in that case be thicker.) 
Angel cake requires a hotter oven than sponge cake and may 
be covered with buttered paper when it begins to brown. 

Creamcakes. Cook water and butter in a saucepan, and as 
soon as it boils add flour and continue beating till mixture is 
smooth and thick. Remove from fire and add unbeaten eggs, 
one at a time, beating each one into the mixture separately. 
When all have been added, beat well and drop by the spoon- 
ful on a buttered tin, leaving spaces between. Bake 30 min. 
in a rather hot oven. When firm and brown remove, cool, 



STARCH 



51 



split, and fill with Cream filling (p. 58) or whipped cream. 
Recipe should make 10 to 12 creamcakes. 

Apricot priffs. Fill Creamcakes (p. 50) with stewed and 
sweetened apricots and serve with whipped cream as a des- 
sert. Crushed and sweetened strawberries may also be used. 

Vanilla eclairs. Make creamcake mixture, shape in long, 
narrow ovals, and bake. Fill with Cream filling (p. 58) and 
frost with Confectioner s frosting (p. 57). 

Chocolate eclairs. Make like Vanilla eclairs, adding 1 oz. 
chocolate to the filling and 1 oz. to the frosting. 

Coffee eclairs. Make like Vajiilla eclairs, flavoring both 
filling and frosting with 1 tb. coffee extract. 



Butter Cakes 
Source. General. 

Food Value. Largely for carbohydrates and fat. 
Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Flour 


Sugar 


Salt 


Baking- 
powder 


But- 
ter 


Milk 


Eggs 


Soda 


Flavor- 
ing 


Price 


Jelly roll . . . . 


lie. 


I c. 


itsp. 


I tsp. 


Itb. 


2 tb. 


3 


— 


— 




Layer cake . . . 


lie. 


f c - 


itsp. 


2 tsp. 


4 tb. 


ic. 


1 


— 


itsp. 




Cup cakes I . . 


lie. 


I c. 


itsp. 


2 tsp. 


5 |tb. 


\c. 


1 


— 


itsp. 




Cup cakes II . . 


If c. 


fc. 


itsp. 


2itS P . 


4tb. 


ic. 


2 


— 


itsp. 




Loaf cake . . . 


If c. 


1 c. 


itsp. 


2 tsp. 


Stb. 


ic. 


3 


— 


itsp. 




Sour-milk cake . 


ifc. 


lie. 


itsp. 


— 


Stb. 


ic. 


2 


i tsp. 


1 tb. 




Coffee cake . . . 


2f C . 


fc. 


itsp. 


— 


Stb. 


— 


2 


itsp. 


1 itsp. 




White layer cake . 


ifc. 


I c. 


itsp. 


2i tsp. 


Sitb. 


6tb. 


3 


— 


itsp. 




White cake . . . 


2£c. 


I^C. 


itsp. 


3 tsp. 


Stb. 


1 c. 


4 


— 


itsp. 




Chocolate cake . 


I^C. 


fc. 


itsp. 


2i tsp. 


6tb. 


ic. 


2 


— 


itsp. 





General Directions. All ingredients should be measured before 
the mixing is begun. Eggs should be washed and broken into a 
cup one at a time to test them before putting them into a bowl 
together. Cake-pans should be buttered and floured or lined 
with paper, which should project over two sides. The paper and 
unprotected ends of pan should then be buttered. Oven should 



52 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

be ready when cake is mixed. Except where otherwise directed, 
the butter should be well creamed and sugar added to it grad- 
ually. For Jelly roll and Cup cakes I the yolk and white of 
the egg should be beaten together. In all the other recipes 
the well-beaten yolks should be stirred into the butter and 
sugar, then the milk and sifted dry ingredients added alter- 
nately. If fruit, nuts, or coconut are to be used, they 
should be floured with a little of the flour and added next. 
Then fold in the whites of the eggs (beaten stiff) and flavor. 
Bake according to special directions. After baking is almost 
completed, test by inserting a clean wooden toothpick into the 
center of the loaf. If dry, cake is done. It should be well 
browned and elastic, and should shrink from pan ; there 
should be no singing sound. The oven should be carefully 
regulated while cake is baking. Divide the approximate time 
required into quarters. During the first quarter the cake should 
rise but not brown ; during the second the cake should continue 
to rise and begin to brown in spots ; during the third the 
rising should be completed and an even brown color develop ; 
during the fourth the cake will shrink slightly and dry off. 
The oven heat may be decreased during this last period if 
necessary. 

For variety, | to I c. currants, raisins, or citron (cut fine), 
^ c. chopped nuts, or 1 c. shredded coconut may be added to 
Cup cakes I, Cup cakes II, Loaf cake, Sour-milk cake, or Coffee 
cake. All may be frosted if desired except Coffee cake. 

Jelly roll. Beat egg until light and add the sugar gradu- 
ally ; then add the milk, flour sifted with baking-powder and 
salt, and lastly the butter (melted). Line bottom of dripping- 
pan with buttered paper. Spread mixture evenly in pan and 
bake I2min. in a moderate oven. Take from oven and turn 
on cheesecloth or paper sprinkled with powdered sugar. Re- 
move paper and cut off thin edges of cake. Spread with jelly 
or jam beaten a little, and roll. Then roll cake in cloth or 
paper till cool enough to retain its shape. 



STARCH 53 

Apricot roll. Make like Jelly roll, using stewed apricots 
instead of jelly. 

Layer cake. Mix according to General Directions, flavor 
with lemon or orange extract, and bake in layer-cake tins or 
gem-pans about 1 5 to 20 min. in a rather hot oven. Use any 
filling desired. 

Cup cakes I. Mix according to General Directions, flavor 
with any extract, and bake in gem-pans 15 to 20 min. in a 
rather hot oven. 

Cup cakes II. Follow directions for Cup cakes I (above). 

Loaf cake. Reserve the white of 1 egg for the frosting. 
Flavor cake with vanilla or | tsp. vanilla and ^ tsp. almond ; 
4 tb. grated chocolate may be added if desired. Bake in an 
oblong cake-pan 35 to 40 min. in a moderate oven. 

Sour-milk cake. Flavor with lemon juice and grated rind 
and bake in an oblong cake-pan in a moderate oven. 

Coffee cake. Additional ingredients : \ c. molasses, \ c. 
strong coffee. Flavor with spice, allowing twice as much 
cinnamon as cloves and nutmeg mixed. Bake in a deep cake- 
pan 45 to 55 min. in a slow oven and do not frost. 

White layer cake. Flavor with vanilla and bake in two 
round or oblong layer-cake pans. Fill with Fig filling (p. 58), 
Chocolate filling (p. 58), or Orange filling (p. 58). 

White cake. Flavor with almond and bake in an oblong 
cake-pan 35 to 40 min. A c. sliced citron or chopped nuts 
may be added if desired. 

Chocolate cake. Additional ingredient: 2 oz. melted choco- 
late. Flavor with vanilla and add chocolate last. Bake 40 min. 
in a shallow cake-pan. 



V 
SUGAR 

CANDY 

Source. Sugar cane, sugar beet, maple, fruits, milk, honey. 

Food Value. A source of carbohydrates. 

Cost. Granulated sugar, J§ to 8^ per lb. 2 c. = 1 lb. 





Sugar 


Water 


Flavor- 
ing 


Nuts 


But- 
ter 


Mo- 
lasses 


Milk 


Choc- 
olate 


Cream 

of 
Tartar 


Price 


Nut brittle . . 
Barley candy 
Peppermints . . 
Fondant . . . 
Fudge .... 
Panocha . . . 
Caramels . . . 
Butter taffy . . 


2 C. 
2 C. 
2 C. 
2 C. 
2 C. 
2.Vc. 

1 c. 

2 C 


* c 

3 *-• 

■2- C 
3 '— 

f C ' 

3 tb. 


i tsp. 

6 dr. 

1 tsp. 
1 tsp. 
1 tsp. 
1 tsp. 


I c. 
f-i c. 


3 tb. 
3 tb. 
3 tb. 
4 tb. 


lie. 


f c. 


2 oz. 
30Z. 


itsp. 







General Directions. Use white sugar for the first five recipes, 
and brown sugar for the remainder. Flavor with vanilla except 
for Barley candy, which requires lemon juice, and Peppermints, 
which require oil of peppermint. Measure ingredients, chop 
nuts, butter pans, and have ice water ready for testing, before 
beginning to cook the candy. 

Nut brittle. Put the sugar into an agate saucepan or a 
frying-pan and stir constantly until melted and light brown. 
Add the nuts to this while on the fire ; then pour immediately 
into a pan, which should be large so that the candy will not 
be over i in. thick. Mark in small squares when it begins to 
cool, and break when brittle. 

54 



SUGAR 55 

Barley candy. Put ingredients into an agate saucepan 
and stir over slight heat till sugar is dissolved. Then allow 
the candy to boil without stirring until it is very brittle when 
dropped into ice water. While cooking, the grains of sugar 
should be wiped off the sides of the saucepan with a pastry 
brush or a cloth, moistened well with cold water. When the 
candy is done, pour into pan and cut as above. 

Peppermints. Cook as for Barley candy (above) until the 
sirup will form a ball in ice water. Remove from the fire and 
let stand 10 min. Then flavor and beat until the candy grows 
thick and creamy. Drop by the teaspoonful on paraffin paper 
and remove when cold. This candy may be flavored with 
wintergreen and colored pink, or with vanilla and I oz. of 
melted chocolate. 

Fondant. Cook as for Peppermints (above) until the soft-ball 
stage is reached. Let stand 5 min. and pour out upon a well- 
greased platter. When the bottom of the platter is cool enough 
to be held on the hand, work the mixture with a wooden spoon 
till it becomes creamy, then knead into a smooth, firm ball, 
put into a bowl or jar, cover with paraffin paper and a plate, 
and let stand 24 hr. or longer. It may then be melted in a 
double boiler and used for dipping bonbons or for mints. 
Centers for creamed dates and walnuts should be shaped 
from bits of the unmelted fondant. 

Fudge. Put all ingredients except vanilla into an agate 
saucepan and boil, stirring seldom, until the mixture will form 
a ball in cold water. Flavor, set the pan into cold water, and 
beat till candy is creamy, or let it stand for 10 to 15 min. 
and then beat the candy. Pour into pan, and when cold cut 
in squares. 

Panocha. Make like Fudge (above), adding nuts and flavor- 
ing after the candy is cooked. 

Caramels. Put butter into saucepan and when melted 
add all other ingredients except vanilla ; stir constantly till 
chocolate is melted. Boil until mixture will form a firm ball 



56 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



when tested in cold water ; then add vanilla and pour into 
pan. Mark in squares when cool, and when hard enough, 
break and wrap in paraffin paper. 

Butter taffy. Additional ingredient: I tb. lemon juice. Boil 
all ingredients except butter and vanilla until the mixture is 
brittle when dropped into cold water. Add butter just before 
removing from the fire and vanilla before pouring into pan. 
Cool and mark in squares. 

FROSTINGS AND CAKE FILLINGS 

Source. General. 

Food Value. Chiefly as a source of sugar. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Granu- 
lated 
Sugar 


Confec- 
tioner's 
Sugar 


Water 


Milk 


White 
of 
Egg 


Egg 

Yolks 


Fla- 
vor- 
ing 


But- 
ter 


Lemon 
Juice 


Price 


Plain frosting 


— 


fc 


2 tsp. 


— 


I 


— 


— 


— 


itb. 




Confectioner's 






















frosting . 


— 


fc 


2 tb. 


— 


— 


— 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Boiled frosting 


I c. 


— 


ic. 


— 


I 


— 


— 


— 


itb. 




Ornamental 






















frosting . . 


— 


I c. 


— 


— ■ 


I 


— 


— 


— 


i tsp. 




Orange frost- 






















ing . . . . 


— 


fc. 


— 


— 


— 


I 


— 


— 


i tsp. 




Caramel frost- 






















ing . . . . 


ii c. 


— 


ic. 


— 


I 


— 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Chocolate 






















frosting II . 


ii c. 


— 


f c - 


— 


— 


— 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Chocolate 






















frosting III 


— 


I c. 


— 


ic 


— 


I 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Milk frosting . 


lie. 


— 


— 


ic. 


— 


— 


itsp. 


itsp. 


— 




Cream filling . 


I c. 


— 


— 


2 C. 


2 


2 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Lemon filling . 


I c. 


— 


ic. 





I 


I 


— 


i tsp. 


1 r 

4 C. 




Fig filling . . 


ic. 


— 


ic. 











— 


— 


2 tb. 




Chocolate fill- 






















ing . . . . 


— 


lie. 


— 


3 tb. 





I 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Prune-almond 






















filling . . . 


I c. 


— 


ic. 


— 


I 


— 


— 


— 


itb. 





SUGAR 57 

General Directions. Most uncooked frostings should be spread 
on the cake when it is slightly warm. Cooked frostings and 
confectioner's frosting may be put on the cake when it is cold, 
and if difficult to spread, a knife dipped in boiling water may 
be used. 

To test sirup for frosting, take up a little on the end of 
teaspoon or fork. Let it drip above the saucepan, and if a fine 
thread blows off from the drop, the sirup is ready to use. 

Plain frosting. Beat white of egg until stiff ; add water, 
then sugar. Flavor (A tsp. vanilla or lemon extract may be sub- 
stituted for the lemon juice), and add more sugar if frosting 
is not stiff enough to spread. 

Confectioner's frosting. Add enough sugar to the water (boil- 
ing) to make it stiff enough to spread. Flavor and use at once. 

Boiled frosting. Cook sugar and water, as for Fondant 
(p. 55), until sirup threads. Pour slowly on the well-beaten 
egg white, and continue beating until frosting is thick enough 
to spread. Flavor. 

Chocolate frosting I. Melt I oz. chocolate and add to Boiled 
frosting while beating. 

Coffee frosting. Substitute A c. coffee for the water and 
omit vanilla. Follow recipe for Boiled frosting. 

Ornamental frosting. Add 3 tb. of the sugar to the unbeaten 
egg ; beat 2 min. Add 3 tb. more and repeat till all the sugar 
has been used ; the lemon juice may be added gradually as 
mixture stiffens. Add more sugar if needed to make the frost- 
ing stiff enough to spread. Test by taking a little on back 
of spoon and making a cut through ; if separation remains, 
frosting is ready to use for surface covering. If used with 
pastry tube, it may require still more sugar. 

Orange frosting. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. orange juice, 
grated rind 1 orange, and 1 tsp. grated lemon rind. Let the rind 
stand in the fruit juice for 5 min., then add this to egg yolk 
(slightly beaten), with enough sugar to make it of the proper 
consistency to spread. 



58 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Caramel frosting. Use brown sugar and make like Boiled 
frosting (p. 57). \ c - chopped nuts may be added. 

Chocolate frosting II. Additional ingredient : 3 oz. choco- 
late. Cook sugar and water till sirup threads, and pour slowly 
on the melted chocolate. Beat till thick ; flavor and spread. 

Chocolate frosting III. Additional ingredients : 2 oz. choc- 
olate, spk. salt. Melt chocolate over hot water ; add the milk 
slowly, then salt, yolk of egg, and flavoring. Mix till smooth, 
and stir in enough sugar to stiffen the mixture. 

Milk frosting. Put ingredients in saucepan. Stir to dissolve 
the sugar and boil 10 min. without stirring. Beat until thick 
enough to use ; flavor and spread. Crease when cool. 

Cream filling. Additional ingredients : 6 tb. flour, 1 tsp. 
salt. Use eggs whole. Scald milk. Mix sugar and flour, pour 
on them the hot milk, return to double boiler, and cook for 
10 min., stirring till thick. Add this to the eggs and cook 
2 min. longer. Flavor and cool. 

Chocolate cream filling. Use recipe for Cream filling and 
add 1 oz. melted chocolate with the eggs. 

Coffee cream filling. Use 1 c. strong coffee with 1 c. milk 
for the liquid and omit vanilla. Follow recipe for Cream filling. 

Lemon filling. Additional ingredients : rind of 2 lemons 
(grated), 4 tb. flour. Mix sugar and flour, add rind, lemon juice, 
water, and egg (slightly beaten). Put butter in a saucepan ; 
when melted add the mixture and stir till it boils, being 
careful not to burn it. Cool before spreading. 

Orange filling. Make like Lemon filling, using only | c. sugar, 
and rind of 1 orange instead of rind of 2 lemons. Substitute 
for the lemon juice 4 tb. orange juice and 1 tb. lemon juice. 

Fig filling. Additional ingredient : I c. finely chopped figs. 
Cook in a double boiler till thick enough to spread. 

Chocolate filling. Additional ingredient : 2 oz. chocolate. 
Melt chocolate in double boiler, add the sugar and milk ; 
when smooth add egg yolk. Stir in double boiler till thick 
enough to use. Flavor, and cool slightly. 



SUGAR 



59 



Prune-almond filling. Additional ingredients : | c. prunes 
(cut in fine strips), | c. almonds (blanched and shredded). 
Add these to Boiled frosting (p. 57) and use for White 
layer cake (p. 53). 



PUDDING SAUCES 
Source. General. 
Food Value. For carbohydrates. 
Cost. See price of individual items. 







Granu- 
lated 

Sugar 


But- 
ter 


Milk 


Water 


Eggs 


Fla- 
voring 


Flour 


Pow- 
dered 
Sugar 


Choc- 
olate 


Price 


Lemon sauce . . 


f c 


2 tsp. 


— 


lie. 


— . 


— 


3 tb. 


— 


— 




Vanilla sauce . . 


f c 


2 tsp. 


— 


lie. 


— 


J- tsp. 


3 tb. 


— 


— 




Brown-sugar 






















sauce .... 


I c. 


I tb. 


— 


ic. 


— 


i tsp. 


i±tb. 


— 


— 




Egg sauce . . . 


— 


— 


4 tb. 


— 


1 


itsp. 


— 


f c. 


— 




Hard sauce . . 


— 


2tb. 


— 


1 tb. 


— 


i tsp. 


— 


I c. 


— 




Creamy sauce . . 


— 


ic. 


2tb. 


— 


— 


1 tsp. 


— 


ic. 


— 




Foamy sauce . . 


— 


2tb. 


3 tb. 


— 


2 


1 tsp. 


— 


1 c. 


— 




Orange sauce . . 


— 


— 


— 


— 


2 


— 


— 


f c. 


— 




Chocolate sauce . 


1 c. 


— 


— 


lie. 


I 


£tsp. 


— 


— 


2 OZ. 




Fudge sauce . . 


I c. 


1 tb. 


i c 
3 **" 


— 


— 


itsp. 


— 


— 


I OZ. 







General Directions. Use boiling water where water is required, 
and flavor with vanilla extract unless otherwise specified. 

Lemon sauce. Additional ingredient : juice of \ lemon. 
Mix flour and sugar in saucepan and add hot liquid ; put 
saucepan on stove, and stir sauce till it boils ; then simmer for 
20 min. Add other ingredients and serve. 

Fruit sauce. Follow recipe for Lemon sauce, using sirup from 
canned peaches or other fruits in place of all or part of the 
water. Add A tb. lemon juice if flavor is not strong enough. 

Vanilla sauce. Make like Lemon sauce (above). 

Brown-sugar sauce. Use brown sugar and make like Lemon 
sauce (above). 



60 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Egg sauce. Heat milk ; beat the egg until foamy, then 
gradually add the sugar, beating constantly. Flavor, and just 
before serving beat in the milk. 

Hard sauce. Cream the butter, add part of the sugar, then 
i tsp. water. Continue till all materials have been used, flavor, 
heap lightly on a serving-dish, grate nutmeg over the top, and 
chill. 

Creamy sauce. Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, 
and then the milk, drop by drop (sauce will curdle if milk is 
added too fast). Flavor, and chill slightly before serving. 

Foamy sauce. Cream the butter, add the sugar, the eggs 
(well beaten), and the milk, and beat over hot water till foamy. 
Flavor and serve at once. 

Orange sauce. Additional ingredients : juice and rind of 
i orange, juice of i lemon. Use only the whites of eggs. Beat 
till stiff, add sugar gradually, and continue beating ; then fold 
in the rind and fruit juice. 

Apricot sauce. Use i c. stewed and sifted apricot pulp in 
place of the orange, and proceed as for Orange sauce. 

Chocolate sauce. Additional ingredients : I tb. cornstarch, 
spk. salt, \ c. cold water. Boil sugar and water for 5 min. 
Mix cornstarch with cold water, add salt, and then slowly the 
hot sirup. When well mixed pour over the melted chocolate 
and boil 2 min., stirring constantly ; add beaten egg and cook 
2 min. longer. Flavor and serve hot. 

Fudge sauce. Mix all ingredients except vanilla, boil for 
7 min., stirring occasionally. Flavor and serve hot. 



VI 
PROTEIDS 

MILK 

Source. Obtained chiefly from cows and goats. 

Food Value. Contains all the food principles, but combined 
with so much water that large quantities of milk must be taken 
to sustain life. Greatest value lies in its proteids. 

Cost. 

Whole milk, 8$ to 15$ per qt. 4 c. = 1 qt. 

Skim milk, 6$ to 80 per qt. 





Milk 


Sugar 


Junket 
Tablet 


Salt 


Vanilla 


Boiling 

Water 


Price 


Caramel junket .... 
Cottage cheese .... 


2 C. 
2 C. 

4 c. 


ic. 


I 
I 


Spk. 
Spk. 
i tsp. 


£ tsp. 
itsp. 


i c 





Plain junket. Roll tablet fine ; heat milk until just luke- 
warm and add other ingredients. Stir a very little and pour 
into a serving-dish to harden. Serve with sugar and cream. 
Vary by using 1 tb. cocoa with the sugar. 

Caramel junket. Brown the sugar, add boiling water, and 
cook until reduced to | c. When cool add to lukewarm milk 
and proceed as for Plain junket. Serve with sweetened and 
flavored whipped cream. 

Cottage cheese. Use sour milk. Heat gradually until just 
lukewarm, strain, and press out all the whey. Add salt and a 
little cream, or butter. Pack into a mold to harden. 

Note. Butter may be made from milk by allowing the milk to stand 
long enough for the cream to rise. The milk should then be skimmed and 
the cream churned or shaken in a jar until the fat separates from the butter- 
milk. The butter should be thoroughly washed in ice water to remove all 
liquid and may then be salted if desired. Sweet or sour cream may be used. 

61 



62 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



CHEESE 
Source. Made from milk. 

Food Value. For protein ; also for fat and mineral salts. 
Cost. Cheese, variable. 3 c. = i lb. 





Cheese 


Milk 


Eggs 


But- 
ter 


Mus- 
tard 


Salt 


Cay- 
enne 
Pepper 


Soda 


Flour 


Price 


Creamed cheese . 


ic 


I C. 


I 


I tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


Spk. 


itsp. 


2tb. 




Cheese fondue 


f c 


I C. 


I 


itb. 


itsp. 


ftsp. 


Spk. 


itsp. 


— 




Welsh rabbit . . 


I c. 


I C. 


2 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


Spk. 


itsp. 


— 




Toasted cheese 






















custard . . . 


I c. 


2 C. 


2 


itb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


Spk. 


itsp. 


— 




Cheese souffle . . 


ic. 


±c. 


3 


2tb. 


— 


itsp. 


Spk. 


— 


4 tb. 




Cheese pudding . 


I c. 


2 C. 


1 


2tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 


Spk. 


itsp. 


— 





Creamed cheese. Melt butter, add flour, pour on slowly the 
hot milk, and cook until thick. Add the cheese chopped fine, 
and when melted add seasoning, soda, and beaten egg. Cook 
1 min. and serve at once on slices of toast, crackers, or molds 
of boiled rice. 

Cheese fondue. Additional ingredient : 1 c. soft bread crumbs. 
Melt butter ; add milk, crumbs, and chopped cheese. Stir till 
cheese is melted, add seasonings, soda, and beaten egg, and 
stir till mixture thickens. Tomato may be substituted for the 
milk. 

Welsh rabbit. Cook all ingredients except egg in a double 
boiler until cheese is melted and smooth. Add egg and 
continue cooking until mixture thickens. If it becomes very 
stringy, more milk may be added and the mixture cooked again. 
Serve on toast or browned crackers. Tomato may be used in 
place of milk. 

Toasted cheese custard. Additional ingredient : 6 slices 
toasted bread. Scald milk and pour slowly onto the beaten 
eggs ; then add the cheese (grated), the seasonings, and 
soda. Cut the slices of toast into strips, dip into custard, one 



PROTEIDS 



63 



at a time, and place in a buttered baking-dish. Melt butter, 
add to remaining custard, and pour over the bread. Bake in 
a moderate oven till custard is firm and brown. 

Cheese souffle. Melt butter, add flour, and when well mixed 
gradually add the scalded milk. Then add salt, cayenne pepper, 
and cheese. Remove from fire and add tgg yolks beaten until 
lemon-colored. Cool the mixture ; cut and fold in whites of 
eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Pour into a buttered baking- 
dish and bake 20 min. in a slow oven. Serve at once. 

Cheese pudding. Additional ingredients : 3 slices bread, 1 tb. 
chopped green pepper. Scald milk and dissolve in it cheese, 
seasonings, and soda ; then add to beaten egg. Pour this over 
the bread (buttered and cut in tiny cubes), add pepper, and 
bake in a buttered baking-dish or ramekins till firm. 



EGGS 

Hot Egg Dishes 

Source. Many kinds of eggs may be used for food, but those 
of the domestic hen are chiefly used. 
Food Value. A source of protein. 
Cost. Variable. 8 eggs = 1 lb. (approximate) 



Eggs 



Boiling 
Water 



Salt 



Toast 



Soft-cooked eggs 
Hard-cooked eggs 
Scrambled eggs 
Dropped eggs 
Omelet . . . 
Creamy eggs . 
Creamed eggs 
Baked eggs 



1 qt. 

I qt. 

I qt. 



2 tb. 
2 tb. 
2 tb. 
2 tb. 
2 tb. 
1 tb. 



i tsp 

T tsp 

i tsp 
itsp 
i tsp 
i tsp 



4 tb. 
4 tb. 



4slices 
4slices 



A ts P- 

itsp. 

tV ts P- 
A tsp. 

T6 ts P- 



Soft-cooked eggs. Put eggs into a saucepan, pour over them 
the boiling water, and let stand in warm place from 5 to 10 min. ; 
or put eggs into cold water and remove when water reaches 
boiling point. 



64 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Hard-cooked eggs. Cook as for Soft-cooked eggs, leaving 
eggs in hot water 45 to 50 min. If time is an object, they 
may be boiled for 15 min., but will be less digestible. 

Scrambled eggs. Beat the eggs slightly, add milk, salt, and 
pepper. Melt butter in a double boiler or a saucepan over an 
asbestos plate. Add the egg and stir constantly until thickened. 
Serve on toast, in potato cases, or in a deep dish alone. 

Scrambled eggs with tomato. Use J c. tomato in place of 
the milk and cook as in Scrambled eggs. Dried beef may also 
be added to the egg. Allow \X.o\ lb.; shred, soak 15 min. in 
warm water, then drain and cook with the egg. 

Dropped eggs. Make toast first, dip edges in boiling salted 
water, butter it, and put on a platter. Butter a frying-pan, put 
in water and salt, and when water reaches boiling point break 
in the eggs, one at a time. Pour the water over them gently 
with a spoon, and when the white is set take out carefully 
with a skimmer and serve on the hot toast. 

Omelet. Separate yolks and whites of the eggs and beat the 
whites stiff. Beat the yolks and add salt, pepper, and milk (or 
water if preferred). Melt butter in a frying-pan, and when 
brown, fold the beaten whites into the yolks mixture and turn 
at once into the hot butter. Cook without stirring until brown, 
then set frying-pan into the oven until the egg is firm. Fold 
in the middle and turn onto a hot platter. 

Bread omelet. Add to the egg yolks \ c. soft bread crumbs 
soaked in -|- c. scalded milk and omit liquid called for in recipe. 
Make as for Omelet. Either of these omelets may be served 
with Cheese sauce (p. 30) or Tomato sauce (p. 31); and chopped 
ham, grated cheese, or peas may be folded into them. 

Creamy eggs. Scald milk and add to it the butter, season- 
ings, and eggs (slightly beaten) ; cook till mixture thickens and 
serve on slices of toast. 

Creamed eggs. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. flour, | tsp. 
paprika. Cook the eggs hard and slice them ; reheat in a white 
sauce made from the other ingredients. These may be scalloped. 



PROTEIDS 



65 



Goldenrod eggs. Ingredients as for Creamed eggs. Chop the 
whites, mix with the sauce, and pour over buttered toast. Rub 
yolks through a strainer and sprinkle over the sauce. 

Baked eggs. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. flour, A c. but- 
tered crumbs. Break the eggs into buttered ramekins, sprinkle 
with salt and pepper, cover with crumbs and a white sauce 
made from the other ingredients, and bake in a pan of hot 
water till crumbs are brown. Sauce and crumbs may be omitted, 
or \ c. chopped cheese may be added to the sauce. 

Egg Desserts 
Source. General. 

Food Value. A source of protein and carbohydrates. 
Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Milk 


Eggs 


Sugar 


Salt 


Flour 


Tapi- 
oca 


Flavor- 
ing 


But- 
ter 


Fruit 


Price 


Baked custard . . 


2 C. 


2 


1 C 
3 '-• 


itsp. 


— 


— 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Soft custard . . . 


2 C. 


2 


i c 

3 L> 


itsp. 


— 


— 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Tapioca custard . . 


2 C. 


I 


4 c 
3 *" 


itsp. 


— 


2 tb. 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Baked tapioca pud- 






















ding 


2 C. 


I 


ic. 


itsp. 


— 


i c 

3 '- 


itsp. 


itb. 


— 




Apple snow . . . 


lie. 


2 


ic. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


J- tsp. 


— 


1 c. 




Prune souffle . . . 


2 C. 


3 


ic. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


itsp. 


— 


I c. 




Vanilla souffle . . 


I C. 


3 


ic. 


itsp. 


ic. 


— 


itsp. 


2 tb. 


— 




Chocolate souffle . 


f c. 


3 


ic. 


itsp. 


2 tb. 


— 


1 tsp. 


2tb. 


— 




Rice pineapple pud- 






















ding 


I C. 


2 


ic. 


itsp. 


— 


— 


— 


— 


i c 




Delmonico pudding 


2 C. 


3 


ic. 


— 


— 


— 


i tsp. 


1 tsp. 


I c. 





General Directions. Use vanilla for flavoring unless some- 
thing else is specified. Baked tapioca pudding and the souffles 
should be served as soon as taken from the oven. Other 
desserts should be served cold. Use fruit indicated by name 
of recipe. 

Meringue. In making the meringues for these desserts the 
whites of the eggs should be beaten stiff and half the sugar 



66 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

beaten in ; the remainder of the sugar should then be care- 
fully folded in. Allow 4 tb. powdered sugar to whites of 3 eggs. 

Baked meringue. Allow the whites of 3 eggs and 8 tb. 
powdered sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs stiff and beat in 
A the sugar with egg-beater. Fold in remainder of sugar and 
bake 10 to 12 min. in a moderate oven. 

Baked custard. Scald milk ; beat eggs slightly, add sugar 
and salt, and slowly pour on this the hot milk, stirring con- 
stantly. Flavor, put into buttered cups, set in a pan of hot 
water, and bake until custard is firm. When done, a knife 
blade put into the center will not look milky. 

Chocolate custard. Use recipe for Baked custard, adding 
2 tb. cocoa to the sugar. The yolks of 3 eggs may be sub- 
stituted for 2 whole eggs. 

Caramel custard. Use I c. instead of i c. sugar, brown it, 
and dissolve it in the hot milk. Then proceed as for Baked 
custard. 

Soft custard. Prepare as for Baked custard (above), return 
to double boiler after adding milk, and cook, stirring con- 
stantly, until mixture thickens on spoon. Strain at once and 
flavor when cool. 

Soft chocolate custard. Add 2 tb. cocoa to Soft custard. 

Soft caramel custard. Add \ c. caramelized sugar to Soft 
custard. 

Fruit custard. Make by recipe for Soft custard, adding 1 c. 
of sliced bananas, oranges, pineapple, cooked dried apricots, 
prunes, or peaches, or a mixture of the first three. If a me- 
ringue is desired, use only egg yolks for the custard, allowing 
1 extra, and reserve the whites for the Meringue (p. 65). 

Tapioca custard. Cook prepared tapioca in milk until trans- 
parent, then proceed as for Soft custard (above). The white 
of egg may be beaten separately and stirred into custard when 
it is removed from fire, or may be reserved for a meringue. 
If pearl or flake tapioca are used, allow twice as much, wash, 
and soak for several hours in cold water. Drain before using. 



PROTEIDS 67 

Baked tapioca pudding. Use pearl tapioca. Soak 1 hr. in 
cold water to cover ; drain, add to milk, and cook in double 
boiler 30 min. Beat egg slightly, add sugar and salt, then 
gradually pour over it the hot mixture. Flavor, pour into a 
buttered baking-dish, add butter, and bake 30 min. in slow 
oven. Serve hot, with butter or cream. 

Apple snow. Additional ingredients : 1 c. apple sauce or 
scraped baked apple (rather dry), 6 tb. powdered sugar. Make 
a soft custard, using the milk, egg yolks, granulated sugar, salt, 
and flavoring. Beat the whites of eggs stiff ; add the powdered 
sugar a little at a time, then the fruit gradually, beating all the 
time. The fruit must be cold when used and the mixture 
chilled before serving. Heap lightly in a dish and pour the 
custard round it. 

Prime zvJiip. Substitute cooked prunes for the apples in 
Apple snow and flavor the white-of-egg mixture with a few 
drops of lemon juice. 

Prune souffle. Additional ingredients : 6 tb. powdered sugar, 

1 tb. lemon juice. Make the custard and white-of-egg mixture 
as for Apple snow (above), using stewed and sifted prunes. 
Pile the whip on a buttered baking-dish and bake 30 min. in 
a moderate oven. Serve with the custard or whipped cream 
as sauce. 

Vanilla souffle. Beat egg yolks well, add the sugar, and 
when well mixed stir slowly into the mixture the flour, butter, 
and milk, cooked as for White sauce (p. 30). When slightly 
cool fold in the stiffly beaten whites of the eggs. Flavor and 
pour into a buttered baking-dish. Bake 30 min. in a moderate 
oven. Serve at once with Creamy sauce (p. 60) or Foamy 
sauce (p. 60). 

Chocolate souffle. Additional ingredients : 3 oz. chocolate, 

2 tb. boiling water. Make as for Vanilla souffle (above), adding 
chocolate and water, cooked till smooth, to the flour mixture. 
May be served with plain or whipped cream or with Creamy 
sauce (p. 60). 



68 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Rice pineapple pudding. Additional ingredient : i c. steamed 
rice. Cut fruit in small pieces and add to the rice with sugar, 
salt, milk, and egg yolks. Fold in the stiffly beaten whites, 
pour into a well-buttered dish, and bake 30 min. in a moderate 
oven. Serve with cream or with Foamy sauce (p. 60). 

Delmonico pudding. Additional ingredients : 3 tb. corn- 
starch, 4 tb. powdered sugar. Use any canned or fresh fruit, as 
desired. Make as for Baked cornstarch pudding ($. 27), reserv- 
ing whites of eggs and powdered sugar for a meringue, and 
placing fruit and a little sirup in bottom of baking-dish. Pour 
cornstarch mixture over this. Cover with the meringue 10 min. 
before removing from oven, and bake till firm and brown. 

Cooked Salad Dressings 

Source. General. 

Food Value. A source of protein and fat. 

Cost. See cost of items. 



Plain salad dressing 
Rich salad dressing 
Butter salad dressing 
Hot salad dressing 



Milk 



I c. 



Vin- 
egar 



2tb. 
2tb. 



Eggs 



Salt 



£tsp. 
i tsp. 
itsp. 
*tsp. 



Cay- 
enne 
Pepper 



Spk. 
Spk. 
Spk. 
Spk. 



Mus- 
tard 



£tsp. 
1 tsp. 
£tsp. 
itsp. 



Pa- 
prika 



i-tsp. 
itsp. 
£tsp. 



But- 
ter 



1 tsp. 

2 tb. 
4 tb. 
2tb. 



Flour 



I tb. 
I tb. 
i tsp 



Price 



Plain salad dressing. Scald milk and heat vinegar. Mix 
salt, mustard, pepper, and flour ; add egg, and when well 
blended stir in the milk. Return to double boiler, add vin- 
egar, and stir until mixture thickens. Remove from fire and 
add butter. Strain and chill before using. 2 egg yolks may 
be substituted for the whole egg. 

Cream dressing. Use \ c. cream in place of the milk, and 
follow above recipe. 

Rich salad dressing. Mix dry ingredients, add to beaten 
eggs, then add the milk and vinegar, and cook in double boiler, 
stirring constantly, till thick as cream. Chill before using. 



PROTEIDS 



69 



Butter salad dressing. Additional ingredient: \z. boiling 
water. Beat egg and add to it the dry ingredients mixed. 
Put water, vinegar, and butter into a saucepan and bring to 
the boiling point. Pour this slowly on the egg, stirring con- 
stantly ; return to saucepan and stir over moderate heat till 
mixture thickens. Use for potato or vegetable salad, mixing 
with the salad while hot. Chill the salad before serving. 

Hot salad dressing. Additional ingredients : |c. water, 2 tb. 
sugar. Heat vinegar and water, add other ingredients, and 
when well mixed use as directed for Hot slaiv (p. 70). 

Simple Salads 





Potato 


Eggs 


Dress- 
ing 


Let- 
tuce 


Vege- 
tables 


Cab- 
bage 


Onion 


Price 


Potato salad . . 


2 c. 


— 


I rule 


I 


— 


— 


I tsp. 




Egg salad . . . 


— 


4 


1 rule 


I 


— 


— 


— 




Vegetable salad . 


I c. 


— 


1 rule 


I 


2 C. 


— 


i tsp. 




Cold slaw . . . 


— 


— 


1 rule 


— 





2 C. 


— 




Hot slaw .... 


— 


— 


1 rule 


— 


— 


2 C. 


— 





General Directions. Lettuce should be prepared according 
to directions (p. 15). Cooked vegetables (including potatoes) 
should be cut in well-shaped pieces or in cubes. Cabbage should 
be shredded fine (see p. 16). 

Potato salad. Prepare potatoes ; just before serving mix 
with Plain salad dressing (p. 68) (or Butter salad dressing 
(above) may be used as directed) and serve on lettuce leaves. 
Season with scraped onion. 

Egg-and-potato salad. Allow 4 hard-cooked eggs and add 
to recipe for Potato salad, as follows : Cut potatoes in cubes 
and slice the eggs ; chill and mix with the dressing. Garnish 
and serve on lettuce. Whites of eggs may be chopped and 
mixed with the potato and dressing, the yolks being rubbed 
through a strainer and sprinkled over the salad. 

Egg salad. Prepare lettuce ; cook eggs hard, then cut in 
halves and serve on lettuce leaves with salad dressing. Yolks 



70 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

may be mashed and mixed with a little of the dressing, then 
shaped and put back into the whites. Use Plain salad 
dressing (p. 68). 

Vegetable salad. Cut vegetables in well-shaped pieces, mix 
with the dressing, and serve on lettuce leaves or without. 
Potatoes, beets, beans, and carrots make a good combination. 
Use Plain salad dressing (p. 68) or Rich salad dressing 
(p. 68). 

Cold slaw. Prepare cabbage according to General Direc- 
tions ; just before serving drain thoroughly and mix with Plain 
salad dressing (p. 68). 

Hot slaw. Prepare cabbage, and when Hot salad dressing 
(p. 69) is cooked, pour it over the cabbage. Cook over boiling 
water for 10 min. 

MEAT 

Source. Flesh of various animals, used as food. The most 
common meats are as follows : beef from the ox ; mutton from 
the sheep ; pork from the pig ; veal from the calf ; venison 
from the deer ; lamb from the lamb. 

Food Value. Largely for protein ; contains some fat. 

Cost. Variable. 

General Directions. As soon as meat is received from the 
market remove it from the paper and place on a plate in 
the refrigerator. When ready to use trim' off any discolored 
portion and wipe with a damp cloth. Fresh meat is bright 
in color, firm to touch, has no unpleasant odor, and is 
never slimy. 

Roast, Broiled, and Boiled Meats etc. 

Roast meat. Use lamb, mutton, beef, veal, or pork, select- 
ing tender cuts. Remove superfluous fat and trim off any dis- 
colored meat. Wipe thoroughly with a cloth wet in cold water, 
and sprinkle with flour, salt, and pepper. Place on a rack in a 



PROTEIDS 71 

dripping-pan, with pieces of the fat laid underneath. Put into a 
rather hot oven, and as soon as the meat is seared, reduce the 
heat, put a little water in the pan, and finish cooking the meat 
slowly. Allow 10 min. to a pound if desired rare, 15 min. if 
well done. If the gravy in the pan is very fatty, skim off 4 tb. 
of fat and use for making a brown sauce for the meat. If not 
fatty, 6 tb. flour may be mixed with a little cold water and the 
hot liquid in the pan poured slowly on it. The gravy should 
then be boiled, seasoned, and strained. Any drippings not 
used for the gravy may be saved and added to soup stock. If 
very fatty, use for fried potatoes. 

Broiled meat. Use rump, sirloin, or tenderloin steak, or 
mutton, lamb, or veal chops. Pork chops are usually sauted 
in their own fat. Round steak is sometimes used, but the 
meat is tough and may be better if cooked in other ways. Wipe 
the meat thoroughly with a damp cloth and trim off the 
fat. Grease a broiler with the meat fat, put in the steak, 
and cook over a hot fire from 8 to 12 min., according to the 
thickness of the meat. Turn every 10 sec, to sear both 
sides evenly. Put on a hot platter, and season well with salt, 
pepper, and butter. 

Pan-broiled meat. If a coal fire is not available, the meat 
may be pan-broiled ; that is, cooked in a frying-pan heated 
very hot and thoroughly greased, but with no fat left in pan. 
The meat should be turned frequently, as in broiling. When 
cooked, season and serve like broiled meat. 

Boiled meat. A leg or shoulder of mutton is generally used 
for boiling, other methods of cooking being more suitable for 
the other fresh meats. Wipe meat with a damp cloth and 
trim off superfluous fat. Plunge into boiling water and boil 
for 10 min. Then draw back on the stove and cook gently 
till done. Allow 10 min. per lb. if desired rare, 15 min. if 
well done. Serve with Drazvn-butter sauce (p. 29) to which 
\ c. capers have been added. Save the water for broth or 
stock and skim when cold. 



72 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Sauted meat. This method is commonly called frying, but 
since no fat is used except that which "tries out" from the 
meat, " sauteing is a more correct term. Ham, sliced, is gen- 
erally used. Allow a slice of ham weighing from I to il lb. for 
four people. It should be cut from f to i in. thick. Cover with 
warm water and let stand 15 min. Drain and wipe dry. Put 
into a hot frying-pan, brown quickly on both sides, then draw 
back on the stove and cook slowly for 1 5 min. Chops may be 
cooked by this method. 

Corned and smoked meats. Beef, ox tongue, and pork 
(smoked shoulder and ham) are usually selected for preserving 
by these methods. The fibers of the meat are toughened by 
curing, so it is necessary to allow a much longer time for cook- 
ing them (30 to 40 min. per lb.). Smoked meats should be 
soaked overnight before cooking, and both corned and smoked 
meats should be put over the fire in cold water and heated 
gradually. The water should then be allowed to boil very 
gently till the meat is tender. 

Corned beef may be served hot or may be pressed into a 
pan, weighted, and chilled so that it can be turned out of the 
mold. Sometimes the superfluous fat is removed and the meat 
chopped before pressing. This makes a more delicate dish. 

Corned shoulder is served hot or cold. Ox tongue, whether 
corned or smoked, should be trimmed and skinned after cook- 
ing, and served cold. 

Smoked shoulder or ham should be skinned, sprinkled with 
bread crumbs, stuck with whole cloves, and baked until brown 
(30 to 45 min.). It may then be served hot, with a brown sauce 
to which \ glass of currant jelly has been added, or served 
cold, without sauce. 

Meat Soups 
Source. See Meat. 

Food Value. Slightly valuable as a source of protein. 
Cost. Variable. 









PROTEIDS 










73 




Meat 


Water 


Onion 


Vege- 
tables 


Cloves 


Barley 


Rice 


Pepper- 
corns 


Salt 


Price 


Soup stock . 


5 lb. 


3 qt- 


ic. 


I T C. 


10 


— 


— 


IO 


i tb. 




Lamb broth . 


2 lb. 


2 qt. 


i 


— 


— 


— 


1 c 

3 '-■ 


— 


i tb. 




Scotch broth 


2 lb. 


2 qt. 


i 


lie. 


— 


ic. 





— 


i tb. 




White stock . 


61b. 


4 qt- 


i 


1 c 

4 L - 


6 


— 


— 


6 


i tb. 




Oxtail soup . 


2 


2qt. 


i 


3 r 
4" C - 


— 


— 


— 


— 


|tb. 







General Directions. Meat should be cleaned and all dark 
portions rejected. Use cold water and simmer the soup. Where 
vegetables are required, a mixture of carrots, turnips, and 
celery is desirable (about half as much celery as of either of 
the others). Some salt may be added while meat is cooking. 
Pepper, and more salt if needed, should be added when soup 
is served. Save all meat from soup stock for made dishes. 

Soup stock. Additional ingredient: small bunch of herbs. 
Wipe meat, cut into small pieces, and have the bones cracked. 
Put the marrow, fat, bones, and meat into a kettle with the 
cold water. Let stand 30 min. ; then heat slowly to boiling 
point and cook gently 4 to 6 hr. with kettle covered. Prepare 
vegetables, cut in small pieces, add to the stock, with season- 
ings, and cook 1 hr. longer. Strain and cool quickly. Part 
of the meat may be rolled in flour and browned in a little of 
the meat fat, to give the soup a richer color. Use as a founda- 
tion for vegetable, rice, macaroni, tomato, and other soups. 
Bones and bits of cold cooked meat may be used for a soup 
stock, but the amount of water and seasonings should in that 
case be somewhat reduced. 

Lamb broth. Use neck of lamb or mutton. Wipe meat 
with a damp cloth and cut in small pieces. Put bones, gristle, 
and onion into the cold water and simmer gently for 2 hr. 
Cool slightly and skim off the fat or absorb it with clean brown 
paper. Strain over the meat and cook until latter is almost 
tender. Then add the rice, well washed ; boil for 20 min., 
season, and serve. 



74 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Scotch broth. Cook meat etc. as for Lamb broth (p. 73). 
Soak barley several hours and add it to the broth when the 
meat is added. Heat the vegetables in 2 tb. drippings or butter 
and cook in the soup until tender, adding them when broth 
from bones is strained over meat. 

White stock. Use celery only for the vegetables and buy 
knuckle of veal for the meat. Make like Soup stock (p. 73) 
without browning the meat. Use for white soups. Chicken or 
fowl may be used in place of the veal. 

Oxtail soup. Additional ingredients : ^ c. salt-pork cubes, 
2 tb. butter, 2 tb. flour. Have the oxtails cut at joints. Try 
out salt pork, roll meat in flour, and brown in pork fat. Cook 
in water 4 hr., add vegetables, using no turnip, and season 
well. Cook 1 hr. longer ; strain, cool, and remove fat. Take 
meat from bones and put back into soup. Cook butter and 
flour together till brown, add the soup, and heat. Season, if 
necessary, and serve. 

Made Dishes 
Uncooked Meat 

Source. See Meat. 

Food Value. Chiefly for protein. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Meat 


Pota- 
toes 


Mixed 
Vege- 
tables 


Water 


Salt 


Onion 


Pepper 


Drip- 
pings 


Flour 


Price 


Beef stew . . 


2 lb. 


4 


2 C. 


2qt. 


itb. 


I 


itsp. 


— 


3 tb. 




Lamb or veal stew 


2 lb. 


4 


— 


2 qt. 


itb. 


i 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Italian stew • • 


lib. 


— 


— 


1 c. 


1 tsp. 


i tb. 


— 


— 


— 




Braised meat 


2 lb. 


— 


2 C. 


— 


itb. 


1 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Jellied meat . . 


2£lb. 


— 





I qt. 


itb. 


— 


— 


— 


— 




Hamburg steak . 


i£lb. 


— 


— 


2 C. 


itb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


3 tb. 


5tb. 




Roast cannelon . 


iilb. 


— 


— 


— 


itb. 


itb. 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Meat loaf I . . 


2 lb. 


— 








itb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


— 


— 




Meat rolls . . 


1 Mb. 


— 


— 


I C. 


itb. 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


41b. 


— 




Liver and bacon 


lib. 


— 


— 


i-r c 


1 tsp. 


— 


itsp. 


— 


4tb. 





PROTEIDS 75 

General Directions. Mixed vegetables include carrots and 
turnips. If a small amount of onion is used, it should be 
finely chopped or scraped. Drippings may be from salt pork, 
bacon, or other meat ; butter may be substituted if preferred. 
More seasoning may be added. 

Beef stew. Use beef from the neck, shoulder, or lower round. 
Wipe meat with a damp cloth, remove gristle, bones, and 
poorer parts of the meat, put them into cold water, and heat 
slowly to boiling point. Cut remainder of meat into inch cubes, 
roll them in the flour, and brown in a little of the meat fat, 
with the onion sliced thin. Add this to rest of meat etc. 
when the water reaches the boiling point. Cook slowly till meat 
is tender, i hr. before stew is to be served add carrot and 
turnip (prepared and cut in small cubes). Potatoes should be 
cut in eighths, parboiled, and cooked in the stew for 20 min. 
Season highly and remove large bones before serving. The 
stew may be thickened with flour if desired, and Dumplings 
(p. 43) may be served with it. 

Lamb or veal stew. Use shoulder of lamb or veal. Make 
like Beef stew without browning the meat and onion, and omit 
the vegetables. 

Italian stew. Additional ingredients : 2 c. tomatoes, 1 c. 
spaghetti, \\ slices salt pork, J tsp. curry, 1 tsp. paprika. Use 
raw meat (preferably round of beef), and run through meat- 
chopper. Break spaghetti in small pieces, cook in boiling 
salted water till tender, and drain. Cut salt pork in cubes and 
try it out, adding the onion chopped fine. Stir the chopped 
meat into this, and when brown add all the other ingredients. 
Heat thoroughly and serve as the main dish for a meal. Curry 
may be omitted, and 4 tb. grated cheese added if desired. 

Braised meat. Additional ingredient : 2-inch cube salt pork. 
Use beef from bottom of round, vein, or aitchbone or use 
shoulder of lamb or veal. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth 
and trim into shape. Slice the pork and onions and cook 
together till brown. Dredge meat with flour and brown on all 



y6 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

sides in the hot fat. Place meat in a deep pan on a trivet or 
skewers. Pour fat and onion around it and add water to about 
half cover. Put into a slow oven and cook 3 or 4 hr., turning 
meat occasionally and renewing water if needed. The pan 
should be covered tightly to keep in the steam. When the 
meat is almost tender add vegetables and seasonings. Serve 
with gravy poured around the meat. Vegetables may be omitted 
if preferred, and the meat may be cooked on top of the stove 
if kettle is tightly covered. 

Jellied meat. Additional ingredients : 1 tsp. poultry season- 
ing, 10 peppercorns, 10 whole cloves, 1 bay leaf. Use shin of 
beef, with considerable meat on it, and have bones cracked. 
Cook slowly until meat shreds easily. Pick out lean meat, 
shred, and mix with poultry seasoning to taste. Strain liquor, 
boil down to 1 pt., pour over meat, and cool. 

Hamburg steak. Use round of beef. Wipe meat with a 
damp cloth and cut in small pieces, removing fat and gristle. 
Put through a meat-chopper, add seasonings, and form into 
8 round, slightly flattened cakes. Heat a frying-pan, grease 
with the meat fat, put in the cakes, and brown quickly on 
both sides. Draw back on the stove and cook slowly for 
10 min. Keep the meat hot while making the gravy. Try 
out fat in the frying-pan. Add flour and stir until well 
browned ; then stir into it slowly the boiling water or stock. Let 
this boil up once, season with salt, pepper, and any meat sauce 
if desired, and strain over the meat on a hot platter. 

Roast cannelon. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. chopped pork 
or bacon, 1 egg. Use round of beef. Wipe meat with a damp 
cloth and trim. Put through meat-chopper, add the other ingre- 
dients, and mix well, moistening with a little water or stock if 
too dry. Shape into a roll and place in a buttered pan. Brush 
over with melted butter and put thin slices of salt pork on the 
meat. Bake 30 to 40 min. in a moderate oven. Serve with 
Brown sauce (p. 30) or Tomato sauce (p. 31). Egg may be 
omitted, but cannelon will then not slice so well. 



PROTEIDS yy 

Meat loaf I. Additional ingredients: 1 lb. salt pork, 
4 Boston crackers, 4 tb. milk or stock, 1 tb. lemon juice or 
vinegar, 1 tb. tomato catsup or any meat sauce. Use any 
tough cut of beef or veal. Chop meat and salt pork fine. Add 
the crackers (rolled), the seasonings, and liquid, using more 
moisture if needed. Pack in a small bread-pan, brush over 
with beaten white of egg, and bake 2 hr., basting with salt- 
pork fat. Serve cold. 

Meat rolls. Additional ingredients : 2 c. bread crumbs, 1 tsp. 
poultry seasoning, 2 tb. butter. Use round steak. Wipe meat 
and pound until rather thin. Cut in strips about 2 in. wide 
and 6 in. long. Moisten crumbs with boiling water, mash, and 
add seasonings and butter. Spread the meat with this mixture, 
roll up the strips, and tie securely. Dredge with flour and 
brown in hot drippings. Put into a saucepan, cover with water 
or stock, and simmer gently until meat is tender (2 hr. or more). 
Remove strings and serve in the gravy, without straining. 

Rolled beef may be prepared in the same way from the 
whole slice of steak, but will require 4 or 5 hr. cooking. 

Veal birds. Prepare as for Meat rolls, using thin slices of 
veal. Allow most of the water to evaporate ; when meat is 
tender add 1 c. milk or cream, and when heated thicken with 
2 tb. flour mixed with a little cold water. Use butter or salt 
pork for browning the meat before cooking. 

Liver and bacon. Additional ingredient : \ lb. bacon. The 
measured flour and water are for the gravy. Have liver sliced 
thinly and let stand in boiling water for 10 min. Drain and 
remove skin and membranes. Dry thoroughly, sprinkle with 
salt and pepper, and dip in flour. Fry the bacon and keep 
warm while cooking the liver in the bacon fat. Turn occasion- 
ally to prevent burning. When cooked, pour off all but 2 tb. of 
the fat, add the flour to this, and stir till well browned. Add 
the hot water gradually, stirring till perfectly smooth ; put liver 
into the gravy and simmer for 10 min. Serve on a hot platter, 
with bacon around the edge. 



78 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Cooked Meat 

Source. See Meat and Vegetables. 

Food Value. A source of protein. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 



Minced meat 
Meat- hash . 
Cottage pie . 
Meat pie . . 
Meat timbales 
Meat loaf III 
Meat souffle . 



2 c. 
i c. 
i c. 
2 c. 
i c. 

2 C. 
2 C. 



Pota- 
toes 



But- 
ter 



2 tb. 
4tb. 
i£tb. 

2itb. 
2tb. 



4tb. 

3 tb. 

5 tb. 



1 c. 

2 C. 
I C. 
I C. 



Onions 



itsp. 
i tsp. 
i tsp. 
i tsp. 
i tsp. 
i tsp. 
i tsp. 



Salt 



i tsp. 
i tsp. 
i tsp. 
itb. 
i tsp 
i tsp 
itb. 



Pep- 
per 



itsp 
itsp 
itsp 
itsp 
itsp 
itsp 
itsp 



General Directions. Make sauce from the butter, flour, and 
stock called for, using water if you have no stock. For lamb, 
veal, or chicken, milk may be used in place of stock. Butter 
or drippings may be used. Scrape onion for seasoning. All 
made meat dishes should be carefully prepared, and should be 
free from bone and gristle and well seasoned. 

Minced meat. Chop the meat fine. If there is no left-over 
gravy, cook the meat trimmings to make stock for the brown 
sauce. Add meat to this, simmer very gently for i min., season, 
and pour it over half slices of toast, which may or may not be 
buttered. Tomato catsup, onion juice, or any bottled meat sauce 
may be used for seasoning, and if the meat is mutton, lamb, 
veal, or chicken, a little nutmeg may be added. 

Meat hash. Beef is most suitable for warming in this way. 
Mix meat and mashed potato, season to taste ; add 1 the butter 
(melted), and the onion juice. Melt the rest of butter or drip- 
pings in a frying-pan ; when brown add the hash, and cook 
slowly till well browned at the bottom. Turn on a platter, with 
crust uppermost. 

Hash cakes. Follow directions for Meat hash, making mix- 
ture into round cakes and browning on both sides in the hot fat. 



PROTEIDS 79 

Cottage pie. Use chopped lamb, beef, or veal, and seasoned 
mashed potato. Add meat to sauce made of other ingredients, 
put in a buttered baking-dish, cover with the mashed potato, 
and bake till top is brown. 

Meat pie. Additional ingredient : A the rule for Baking- 
powder biscuits (p. 45). Prepare and cook potatoes and cut in 
cubes. Cut the meat in small pieces and add to the brown 
sauce with the potatoes. Season well, put in baking-dish or 
cups, cover with the dough, and bake 20 min. in a moderate 
oven. 1 c. cooked carrots may be added if desired. 

Meat timbales. Additional ingredients: 1 c. stale bread 
crumbs, i tb. chopped parsley. Use any desired meat (chopped 
fine). Use milk with chicken, veal, or mutton ; stock with 
beef. Melt butter, add bread and liquid, and cook 5 min., 
stirring constantly. Add meat, parsley, and egg (slightly 
beaten). Season with salt, pepper, and onion juice. Turn into 
buttered molds and set in a pan of hot water. Cover with 
buttered paper, to prevent browning on top, and bake 20 min. 
Serve with White sauce (p. 30), Brown sauce (p. 30), or 
Tomato sauce (p. 31). 

Meat loaf II. Make like Meat timbales, and bake f hr. in a 
deep pan. 

Meat loaf III. Additional ingredients : 1 tb. gelatin, i c. 
cold water, 1 tb. lemon juice. Heat stock, add gelatin (softened 
in the cold water), and when dissolved add the meat (chopped) 
and the other ingredients. Tomato may be substituted for the 
stock. Mold and serve cold. 

Meat souffle. Additional ingredients : 1 c. soft bread crumbs, 
2 c. thick white sauce, 1 tsp. chopped parsley. Make and cool 
the sauce, then mix it with crumbs, seasoning, and chopped 
meat. Add the beaten yolks of eggs ; then fold in the stiffly 
beaten whites. Put into a well-buttered dish and bake 1 5 min. 
in a hot oven. Serve at once. Lamb, veal, and chicken are- 
most suitable for this dish, though beef may be used by 
substituting Brown sauce (p. 30) for the White sauce (p. 30). 



So 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 
GELATIN 



Source. Obtained by cooking with water, from the bones and 
connective tissue of animals. 

Food Value. A proteid-sparer ; contains albumenoids. 
Cost. Gelatin, 12 c. to 15 c. per pkg. 4 tb. = 1 pkg. 





Gela- 
tin 


Sugar 


Salt 


Water 


Milk 


Fruit 
Juice 


Eggs 


Fla- 
voring 


Cream 


Price 


Coffee jelly . . . 


I tb. 


*c. 


Spk. 


f c. 


— 


— 


— 


— 


— 




Lemon jelly . . 


I tb. 


{c 


Spk. 


lie. 


— 


3 tb. 


— 


— 


— 




Fruit jelly . . . 


i tb. 


ic. 


Spk. 


— 


— 


2 C. 


— 


i tb. 


— 




Spanish cream 


1 tb. 


ic. 


Spk. 


— 


2 c. 


— 


2 


f tsp. 


— 




Snow pudding . 


Stsp. 


1- c. 


— 


I c. 


— 


ic 


3 


— 


— 




Chocolate Bava- 






















rian cream . . 


2tb. 


f c. 


Spk. 


— 


2 c. 


— 


— 


itsp. 


I c. 




Fruit Bavarian 






















cream .... 


2tb. 


f c. 


Spk. 


— 


I c. 


it 


— 


— 


I c. 




Charlotte russe 


2tb. 


£ c. 


— 


— 


2 C. 


— 


— 


1 tsp. 


I c. 







General Directions. Gelatin should always be soaked in four 
times its bulk of cold water or milk and dissolved in the 
liquid required for the jelly, which should be scalded or boil- 
ing. Never cook gelatin, as jelly will not then harden. For 
the Bavarian creams the amount of gelatin may be decreased 
to 1^ tb. if cream is to stand several hours. 

Coffee jelly. Additional ingredient : 1 c. hot coffee. Soak 
gelatin in cold water, dissolve in boiling water, add other in- 
gredients, strain, turn into cold wet molds and chill. Serve 
with whipped cream, sweetened slightly. 

Lemon jelly. Make as for Coffee jelly. Serve plain or with 
cream or Soft custard (p. 66). 

Orange jelly. Use 1 c. water and | c. orange juice, with 
1 tb. lemon juice added, and follow recipe for Lemon jelly. 

Fruit jelly. Method I. Use canned peaches, apricots, or 
any other fruit that is slightly acid, cutting it into small pieces. 
If there is not enough juice in the can, make up the amount 



PROTEIDS 8 1 

with water. Use lemon juice for flavor. Make as for Coffee 
jelly (p. 80), adding fruit before putting jelly into mold. 

Method 2. Make Lemon jelly (p. 80) as a foundation. Add 
sliced bananas and oranges to the jelly. 

Spanish cream. Separate eggs. Scald milk and make a 
custard with it, using egg yolks, salt, and sugar. Remove 
from fire, add gelatin, and when dissolved, stir in the whites, 
beaten stiff. Flavor and pour into cold wet molds. 

Chocolate Spanish cream. Use recipe for Spanish cream, 
adding 2 tb. cocoa to the sugar when making the custard. 

Coffee Spanish cream. Substitute 1 c. hot coffee for 1 c. of 
milk and proceed as for Spanish cream. 

Caramel Spanish cream. Brown the sugar and dissolve in 
hot milk before making custard. Allow \ c. sugar extra and 
follow recipe for Spanish cream. 

Macaroon cream. Use recipe for Spanish cream. After 
gelatin has been dissolved in custard, flavor, and add \ c. 
pounded macaroons. Set bowl into a pan of ice water and 
stir until mixture begins to thicken ; add stiffly beaten whites 
of eggs, and mold. 

Cold cabinet pudding. Use recipe for Spanish cream, omit- 
ting whites of egg. Soak 6 lady fingers or strips of stale 
cake and 6 macaroons in the mixture. Place in layers in a 
cold wet mold, pouring custard over each layer. Mold should 
be placed in ice water, and each layer should be firm before 
another is added. Candied cherries and angelica may be used 
to decorate mold. Serve with whipped cream or a meringue 
of the whites of eggs. 

Snow pudding. Use whites of eggs only and lemon juice 
for the fruit juice. Add sugar and lemon juice to the dissolved 
gelatin, stir in ice water till the mixture thickens, then add the 
beaten whites of eggs, and continue beating till thick enough 
to hold its shape. Mold, chill, and serve with Soft enstard 
(p. 66) made from the egg yolks. Soft chocolate custard (p. 66) 
may be used as a sauce if preferred. 



82 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Chocolate Bavarian cream. Additional ingredient : 2 tb. 
cocoa or 1 oz. chocolate. Mix cocoa and sugar, add to scalded 
milk, and cook 5 min. Chocolate should be melted and added 
to milk. Dissolve gelatin in the hot mixture, strain, and set 
in ice water. Flavor with vanilla. Stir until it begins to 
thicken and add cream (whipped stiff). Mold and chill. 

Coffee Bavarian cream. Use recipe for Chocolate Bavarian 
cream. Substitute coffee for hot milk and omit cocoa and 
vanilla. Do not cook sugar in milk. 

Fruit Bavarian cream. Additional ingredient : 1 c. fruit 
pulp (pineapple, peach, strawberries, bananas, or oranges may 
be used). Make as directed for Coffee Bavarian cream (above), 
adding the fruit when gelatin mixture begins to thicken. 

Ginger cream. Use recipe for Fmit Bavarian cream, allow- 
ing lie. milk, and using 1 c. preserved ginger (with its sirup) for 
the fruit. Add 1 egg (slightly beaten) when the fruit is added. 

Charlotte russe. Additional ingredient: lady fingers or 
thin slices of sponge cake to line the mold. Make like 
Chocolate Bavarian cream (above), omitting chocolate, and 
fill the lined mold. Flavor with 1 tsp. vanilla. 

Caramel charlotte. Add to recipe for Charlotte rnsse 4 tb. 
sugar (caramelized and dissolved in hot milk) and i c. chopped 
nuts. Continue as above. 

POULTRY 

Source. Flesh of domestic birds. 

Food Value. For protein. 

Cost. Variable. 

General Directions. Fresh poultry should be of firm texture 
and moderately fat, with a yellowish tinge to the skin. A bluish 
color shows cold-storage birds. A pliable breastbone, few 
scales on the legs, and small pinfeathers characterize young 
birds, while many scales and hairs on the skin denote age. 

Poultry should be picked and cleaned at the market, but the 
body cavity should be examined and cleaned again when ready 



PROTEIDS 83 

to cook. Never wash poultry before placing in refrigerator ; 
it may cause it to spoil quickly. Singe the bird, remove pin- 
feathers with a sharp knife, cut off the neck, leaving the skin, 
and remove oil-bag in tail ; then wash thoroughly and proceed 
as directed. 

To truss a fowl, run a skeWer through each leg and wing, 
pinning it close to the body. Then tie a piece of twine to the 
end of one wing skewer, run it across back of fowl to the 
skewer diagonally opposite ; connect this with skewer in other 
leg, then back to the other wing. This will hold fowl in shape 
without marking the breast. Remove skewers and string 
before serving. 

Boiled fowl. Dress, clean, and truss a 4-pound fowl ; tie 
in a piece of cheesecloth, place on a trivet in a kettle, half 
surround with boiling water, cover, and cook slowly till tender, 
turning occasionally. Add salt last hour of cooking. A piece 
of salt pork boiled with the fowl gives a good flavor and may 
be sliced and served with it. Serve with Drawn-butter sauce 
(p. 29), or with White sauce (p. 30), or with chopped celery, 
sliced eggs, or cooked oysters added to either sauce. 

Roast chicken. Clean, singe, and wash a 4-pound chicken, 
removing pinfeathers if necessary. Dry well and stuff, using 
recipe for Stuffing (below). Sew up openings and skewer into 
shape. Sprinkle with salt. Try out chicken fat, measure 3 tb., 
and mix with 2 tb. flour. Spread breast and legs of chicken 
with this mixture. Roast i| hr., reducing heat of oven after 
15 min. and basting chicken every 10 min. with chicken fat 
and hot water (2 tb. chicken fat to 1 c. water). Put more 
water in pan if chicken browns too fast, and use for basting if 
necessary. 

Stuffing. Ingredients : 

2 c. soft bread crumbs Onion juice 

4 tb. melted butter Salt 

1 tb. poultry seasoning Paprika 
Hot water 



84 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Mix ingredients in the order given, seasoning to taste and 
using enough hot water to make of the desired consistency. 
Giblet gravy. Ingredients : 

Chicken giblets 4 tb. flour 

3 tb. fat 2 c. cold water 

Salt and pepper 

Cook cleaned giblets in the water till tender. Skim fat from 
liquid in roasting-pan and brown with the flour. Add liquid 
strained from giblets, boil 5 min., strain, season, and add giblets 
(chopped fine). (Giblets include heart, liver, and gizzard.) 

Chicken fricassee. Dress, clean, and cut up a fowl. Put in 
a kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender, 
adding salt to the water when chicken is about half done. 
Remove from water, dry well, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 
dredge with flour, and saute in butter or pork fat. Arrange 
chicken on pieces of toast, and pour around it 2 c. white sauce, 
or reduce stock to 2 c, strain, and remove fat ; melt 3 tb. 
butter, add 4 tb. flour, and gradually pour on the stock ; cook 
until smooth and season. 

Brown fricassee. Make like Chicken fricassee, but serve with 
a sauce made by browning butter and flour before adding stock. 

Chicken pie. Ingredients : 

4-pound fowl 3 c. stock 

1 rule Quick paste (p. 102) 8 tb. flour 

1 slice onion 4 tb. chicken fat 

1 bay leaf Bit of parsley 
Salt and pepper 

Cook fowl in boiling water to which a bit of parsley, the 
onions, and bay leaf have been added. When tender, remove 
and let stock boil down. Cool and skim. Reheat 3 c. Melt 
the chicken fat, mix with the flour, and pour on slowly the hot 
stock. Separate meat into small pieces, removing large bones. 
Place inverted cup in middle of baking-dish, surround with 
chicken, and pour sauce over it, seasoning well. Cover with 
paste ; make several incisions in crust and bake in a moderate 



PROTEIDS 85 

oven till crust is well browned. Potato cubes and i c. small 
carrot cubes, both cooked till tender, may be added to the pie. 
Individual dishes may be used instead of one large dish. 

Roast turkey. Prepare as for roast chicken, using twice the 
amount of stuffing. Allow 1 5 min. to each pound for roasting. 
Serve with Giblct gravy (p. 84). 

Roast duck. Prepare as for Roast cJiicken (p. 83), stuffing 
with chopped celery. Allow 20 min. to each pound for roast- 
ing. A bread stuffing may be used if preferred. Serve with 
Brown sauce (p. 30) or Sauce piquant c (p. 30). 

Roast goose. Prepare as for Roast chicken (p. 83), stuffing 
with mashed potato highly seasoned with onion, butter, salt, 
and pepper. Allow 18 min. to each pound for roasting. Serve 
with Giblct gravy (p. 84). 

FISH 

Boiled, Broiled, Baked, and Fried Fish etc. 

Source. White-fleshed fish, as cod, haddock, pike, halibut, 
flounder, etc. ; oily-fleshed fish, as salmon, herring, mackerel, 
sardines, etc. 

Food Value. For protein and fat. 

Cost. Variable. 

General Directions. Fish is a useful food, on account of 
its food value as a substitute for meat and its low cost. It 
should be perfectly fresh, however, as serious illness is likely 
to result from the use of stale fish. When fresh the eyes 
should be bright, gills red, and flesh firm, and there should 
be no unpleasant odor. 

White-fleshed fish, being rather insipid, requires a well- 
seasoned sauce. 

Boiled fish. Salmon, halibut, swordfish, cod, or haddock 
may be used. Wipe fish thoroughly and, if whole, skin it if 
desired. Tie in a clean cloth or put into a wire basket. Plunge 
into boiling water, cook for 10 min. on front of stove, then 



86 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

draw back and simmer gently till done. Drain thoroughly, 
remove cloth, and serve with Egg sauce (p. 30). For a thick 
piece of fish allow 1 2 to 15 min. per pound ; for a thin piece, 
10 min. 

Broiled fish. Haddock, cod, bluefish, mackerel, etc., may be 
broiled whole ; swordfish, halibut, and salmon should be sliced. 
Wipe fish thoroughly, put into a well-greased broiler, and cook 
over hot coals till flakes separate, turning constantly, and cook- 
ing the flesh side longest. Remove from broiler carefully, and 
season with salt, pepper, and melted butter. To broil in a gas 
stove, put broiler in a dripping-pan, and cook at some dis- 
tance from the broiler flame, turning occasionally. Cooking 
may also be done in gas oven. Fish should then be placed 
on buttered tin sheet in a dripping-pan, seasoned and covered 
with buttered crumbs, and cooked 20 to 30 min. without turning. 
Broiled fish may be served with Tartar sauce (below). 
Tartar sauce. Ingredients : 

1 tb. vinegar \ tsp. salt 

1 tb. lemon juice \ tsp. paprika 

4 tb. melted butter Spk. cayenne pepper 

\ tsp. any prepared meat sauce 

Brown the butter slightly and then add the other ingredients. 
Heat before pouring over fish. 

Baked fish. Cod, haddock, and bluefish are most commonly 
used. Clean and wipe the fish, and fill with Stuffing (p. 83). 
Sew up fish, lay on a well-buttered fish-sheet in dripping-pan, 
brush over with melted butter or lay thin slices of salt pork on 
the fish, and add 1 c. hot water. Bake 45 to 60 min., unless 
small fish are used, when 30 min. will be sufficient. Serve with 
a gravy made from fat in pan as for Roast meat (p. 70), 
using water for the liquid, or with Parsley sauce (p. 30). 

Baked fillet of fish. Use thin slices of halibut, or swordfish, 
or cod, or haddock, skinned and boned. Place a layer of Stuff- 
ing (p. 83) between two pieces of fish, sprinkle with salt, pepper, 
and buttered crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven 30 to 45 min., 



PROTEIDS 



87 



using a fish-sheet as directed for Baked fish (p. 86). Remove 
from pan carefully and serve with White sauce (p. 30) or 
Parsley sauce (p. 30) or Tomato cream sauce (p. 31). 

Sauted fish. Use cod, haddock, or hake. Have fish cut into 
pieces for serving. Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and 
roll in corn meal. Use drippings or try out slices of salt pork. 
Have only a little fat in pan and cook fish rather slowly, turn- 
ing, that both sides may brown, and adding more fat if needed. 
If salt pork is used, garnish the platter with the crisp slices. 
Smelts, perch, and butterfish may be cooked in this way, but 
should be left whole. 

Fried fish. Ingredients : 

2 lb. haddock or cod 1 egg 

Salt and pepper 2 tb. milk 

Bread crumbs or corn meal 

Cut fish in pieces suitable for serving, clean, and wipe dry ; 
season. Dip in crumbs, in egg and milk beaten together, and 
in crumbs again ; fry in hot fat. Water may be used in place 
of milk. 

Made Dishes 
Source. See Fish. 

Food Value. Chiefly as a source of protein. 
Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Fish 


Potato 


Milk 


Butter 


Flour 


Onion 


Salt 


Pepfek 


Egg 


Prick 


Fish chowder . 


2 lb. 


2 C. 


3C 


2 tb. 


— 


2 tb. 


2 tsp. 


itsp. 


— 




Fish hash . . 


2 c. 


2 C. 


ire. 


3 tb. 


— 


itsp. 


I tsp. 


itsp. 


— 




Fish timbales . 


2 C. 


— 


2 C. 


2 tb. 


— 


itsp. 


itb. 


itsp. 


I 




Fish souffle . . 


2 C. 


— 


— 


— 


— 


itsp. 


itb. 


itsp. 


2 





Fish chowder. Additional ingredients: 3 c. water; 2 tb. 
chopped salt pork. Separate the flesh from skin and bones, 
cover the latter with the cold water, and cook gently 20 min. 
Parboil potatoes and drain thoroughly. Cut pork in small 
pieces and try out in large saucepan with the onion ; add the 



88 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



potatoes and strain over them the fish stock. Cook 10 min. ; 
add fish (cut in small pieces) and cook 10 min. longer. When 
potatoes are soft add seasonings, butter, and milk (scalded). 
If crackers are desired, allow 8 common crackers. Split, and 
add to chowder just before serving. 

Fish hash. Use any cold cooked fish that is not oily and 
mashed potato. Flake the fish and mix with the potato. Add 
seasonings, milk, and half the butter. Brown the hash in 
remainder of butter as for Meat hash (p. 78). 

Fish cakes. Make Fish hash into round flat cakes and brown. 

Fish timbales. Additional ingredient : 2 c. soft bread crumbs. 
Cook crumbs in milk, add the fish (flaked), the seasonings, and 
beaten egg. Fill small buttered molds | full, place in a pan 
of water on many thicknesses of paper, and bake about 30 min. 
Turn out and serve with Mock hollandaise sauce (p. 30), White 
saitce (p. 30), or Parsley sauce (p. 30). 

Fish souffle. Additional ingredients : 2 c. white sauce (thick), 

1 c. soft bread crumbs. Add bread crumbs to sauce and cook 

2 min. ; remove from fire, add fish, yolks of eggs, and parsley, 
then fold in white of eggs. Turn into a buttered pudding-dish 
and bake 35 min. in a slow oven. Serve with White sauce 
(p. 30) or Tomato sauce (p. 31). If salmon is the fish used, 
serve with a white sauce. 



Smoked and Salt Fish 

Source. See Fish. 

Food Value. For protein and fat. 

Cost. Variable. 





Fish 


Po- 
tato 


Water 


Milk 


Flour 


But- 
ter 


Salt 


Pa- 
prika 


Price 


Creamed salt fish . . 


1 c. 


— 


— 


lie. 


3 tb. 


i*tb. 


itsp. 


irtsp. 




Spanish codfish .... 


1 c. 


2 C. 


— 


— 


2tb. 


1 tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Smoked salmon . . . 


ilb. 


— 


— 


I c. 


2tb. 


2tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Baked finnan haddie . . 


2* lb. 


— 


ilc. 


— 


5 tb. 


3 tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Creamed finnan haddie . 


I c. 


2 C. 


— 


2 C. 


4 tb. 


2tb. 


itsp. 


itsp. 





PROTEIDS 89 

General Directions. These fish have all been smoked or 
salted to preserve them and will be improved by soaking 1 hr. 
or more in warm water, unless the recipe requires that they 
should be cooked in water before using. Do not use steel 
knives or forks in preparing them except for cutting fish. 

Creamed salt fish. Fish should be shredded after soaking, 
or cut in very small cubes. Make a white sauce of remaining 
ingredients. Add the fish, reheat, and serve on toast or with- 
out. By using 2 c. milk and other ingredients in same propor- 
tion, 1 c. cold cooked potatoes, cut in cubes, may be combined 
with the fish. 

Spanish codfish. Additional ingredients : I A pimientos, 
1 c. tomato, l c. buttered crumbs. Use cold cooked potatoes. 
Prepare fish as for Creamed salt fish (above), draining thor- 
oughly. Make a tomato sauce of necessary ingredients. Place 
fish and potato in layers in a baking-dish, sprinkle with salt, 
pepper, and the pimientos cut in strips, pour over them the 
sauce, cover with crumbs, and bake until brown. Fish may be 
heated in the sauce and served without baking if preferred. 

Smoked salmon. Cover the fish with hot water and let stand 
where water will keep hot, but not boil, for 20 min. Drain 
well, brush the fish with 1 tb. of the butter (melted), and cook 
in oven 15 to 20 min., or till flakes separate. Remove to a 
hot platter and pour around it a white sauce made of the re- 
maining butter and other ingredients. Sauce may be omitted 
and fish seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter. 

Baked finnan haddie. Wash fish, put flesh-side down in a 
dripping-pan, cover with warm water, and let stand for 1 5 min. 
where heat is moderate. Drain thoroughly and dry. Put back 
in the pan, add 1 c. each milk and water, and bake 20 min. or 
till flakes begin to separate. Serve on a platter surrounded by 
Drazvn-bnttcr sauce (p. 29) made from other ingredients. 

Creamed finnan haddie. Flake left-over finnan haddie and 
proceed as for Creamed salt fish (above), omitting the toast 
for serving. 



9 o 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Epicurean finnan haddie. Make like Creamed finnan haddie 
with the addition of 2 pimientos (cut in strips) and a few 
drops of onion juice. 

SHELLFISH 

Source. General. Clams, oysters, scallops, mussels, crabs, 
shrimps, and lobsters are common examples. 
Food Value. Source of protein. 
Cost. Variable. 





Foun- 


Milk 


Pota- 




Pa- 


But- 


Flour 


Water 


Onion 


Price 




dation 




toes 




prika 


ter 










Clam chowder 


rpt. 


3 C - 


4 


1 tb. 


irtsp. 


I tb. 


— 


iqt. 


1 tb. 




Oyster stew . . 


ipt. 


iqt. 


— 


2 tsp. 


I-tsp. 


2tb. 


— 


ipt. 


— 




Panned oysters . 


ipt. 


— 


— 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


2 tb. 


— 


— 


— 




Scalloped oysters 


1 pt. 


ire. 


— 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 


4 tb. 


— 


— 


— 




Oyster pie . . . 


ipt. 


1 c. 


2 c. 


2 tsp. 


irtsp. 


2tb. 


4tb. 


— 


irtsp. 




Oysters and maca- 






















roni .... 


ipt. 


1 c. 


— 


i tsp. 


i-tsp. 


1 tb. 


2tb. 


— 


— 




Deviled scallops 


ipt. 


2 c. 


— 


i tsp. 


itsp. 


2 tb. 


4 tb. 


— 


i-tsp. 




Creamed lobster 


1 c. 


2 C. 


— 


i tsp. 


irtsp. 


2tb. 


4 tb. 


— 


— 




Fried oysters . . 


ipt. 


6tb. 


— 


£tsp. 


Spk. 


— 


|c. 


— 


— 




Fried scallops II 


ipt. 


2tb. 


— 


i-tsp. 


Spk. 


— 


— 


— 


— 





General Directions. Clams should be cleaned by pressing 
out the small black portion in the soft part of the clam, care- 
fully removing bits of shell, and washing as for oysters. 
Oysters must be picked over with the fingers to find pieces of 
shell ; they should then be washed by placing in a strainer and 
pouring A c. cold water over them. This liquid may be added 
to the oyster liquor if strained through cheesecloth to take out 
impurities ; both may then be used if needed, but should be 
heated and skimmed before using. Clean scallops like oysters, 
but do not reserve the liquor. Lobsters are better bought whole 
and opened at home. If lobster is fresh, the tail springs into 
place quickly when bent back. Remove claws and separate body 
from tail. Crack large claws and joints and take out meat. Cut 
the tail shell between the legs, remove meat, cut lengthwise, 



PROTEIDS 91 

and take out vein that runs through tail. Hold body in left 
hand with head down and pull out from upper shell, leaving 
head and stomach (lady) in the shell. Pick out meat from 
small bones, being careful to avoid the gills, which are rough 
and feathery. The green portion lying around the stomach is 
the liver and may be used if desired. 

Clam chowder. Additional ingredient: 1 tb. chopped salt 
pork. Separate hard and soft part of clams ; chop the former 
and cook with the water for 20 min. Cook pork and the 
onion for 5 min. Parboil potatoes, which should be cut in 
small cubes, and add to the pork ; p®ur over this the chopped 
clams and water and cook 15 min. Add seasoning, the butter, 
and soft part of clams. Cook 10 min. and add the hot milk. 
Crackers may be added, and if preferred the crisp pork and 
onion need not be left in the chowder. 

Oyster stew. Scald milk and water. Prepare oysters care- 
fully. Wash them and strain the liquid through cheesecloth 
with the oyster liquor, put into a saucepan, heat, and skim ; 
add the oysters and cook gently till the edges begin to curl. 
Then add other ingredients and serve at once with oyster 
crackers. All milk may be used in place of the pint of water, 
and 1 qt. oysters may be used if desired. 

Panned oysters. Melt butter and add oysters, well cleaned, 
drained, and seasoned. Place oysters on squares of buttered 
toast, pour over each piece of toast a little of the prepared 
oyster liquor, and cook in hot oven till the edges of the oysters 
shrivel. Serve at once. 

Scalloped oysters. Additional ingredients : 1 c. bread crumbs 
or cracker crumbs, \ tsp. nutmeg. Prepare oysters. Mix crumbs 
and melted butter. Heat, skim, and strain oyster liquor and 
add to milk. Put layer of crumbs in bottom of baking-dish, 
then 1 the oysters and 1 the liquid, and season ; repeat, having 
crumbs on top. Bake 30 min. in moderate oven. 

Oyster pie. Additional ingredients : 1 tb. chopped parsley, 
1 rule Shortcake (p. 45) dough, 1 c. oyster liquor. Add the 



92 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

latter to the milk and make a white sauce with the butter and 
flour. Potatoes should be cooked and cut in cubes. Add these 
with the cleaned oysters to the sauce ; season and put into a 
buttered baking-dish. .Cover with the crust and bake 25 to 30 
min. in a moderate oven. 

Oysters and macaroni. Additional ingredients : i-|c. cooked 
macaroni or spaghetti, A c. buttered crumbs. Clean oysters and 
add to a white sauce made from necessary ingredients. Add 
\ c. oyster liquor and the macaroni. Put into a buttered baking- 
dish, cover with the crumbs, and bake 25 to 30 min. in a 
moderate oven. 

Deviled scallops. Additional ingredients : 1- tsp. mustard, a 
few drops of tabasco sauce. Clean like oysters and cook for 
5 min. over hot water. Drain, add to the sauce, and season. 
Serve on buttered toast or crisped crackers. May be covered 
with buttered crumbs and baked till crumbs are brown. 
Mustard may be omitted. 

Deviled lobster, Deviled crabs, Deviled shrimps, Deviled 
clams, or Deviled oysters may be prepared like Deviled scallops. 

Creamed lobster. Additional ingredient : 1 c. celery, cut 
fine. Make like Deviled scallops (above), but omit mustard. 
Any shellfish may be used, and the mixture may be scalloped 
if desired. Rice may be substituted for the celery. 

Fried oysters. Additional ingredient: 1 egg. Use bread 
flour. Pick over, wash, and dry the oysters. Make a batter of 
the other ingredients. Dip oysters in this batter and fry in 
deep fat. Drain and serve on a folded napkin ; garnish with 
lemon and parsley. 

Fried clams and Fried scallops I may be prepared like 
Fried oysters. 

Fried scallops II. Additional ingredients: 1 egg, 1 c. 
cracker crumbs. Prepare scallops, drain, and wipe dry. Season ; 
dip in crumbs, in egg and milk, and in crumbs again. Fry 
2 min. in hot fat and drain on brown paper. 

This method may be used for Fried oysters and Fried clams. 



PROTEIDS 
NUTS AND LEGUMES — MEAT SUBSTITUTES 



93 



Source. Nuts : fruit of various trees, as walnut, chestnut, 
almond, pecan, etc. Legumes : seed of various plants, as pea- 
nut, beans, peas, lentils, etc. 

Food Value. Both nuts and legumes are sources of protein. 
Nuts and peanuts contain fat. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Foun- 
dation 


Water 


Salt 


Mo- 
lasses 


But- 
ter 


Eggs 


To- 
mato 


Onion 


Milk 


Price 


Baked beans 


2 c. 


iqt. 


I tsp. 


3 tb. 














Lima beans a la 






















Creole . . . 


I c. 


— 


I tsp. 


— 


2tb. 


— 


I c. 


itb. 


— 




Kidney beans 






















and rice . . 


I C. 


— 


I tsp. 


— 


2tb. 


— 


I c. 


itb. 


— 




Lentil rolls . . 


I c. 


— 


I tsp. 


— 


i tb. 


I 


— 


£tb. 


— 




Boston roast . . 


I c. 


— 


£tb. 


— 


2 tb. 


I 


— 


i tsp. 


be. 




Nut loaf . . . 


I c. 


— 


Atb. 


— 


2tb. 


I 


— 


— 


I c. 





Baked beans. Additional ingredients : | lb. salt pork, I tsp. 
mustard. California pea beans are commonly used, though 
kidney or yellow-eyed beans may be substituted. Pick over 
and wash beans and soak overnight. Drain off the water and 
parboil beans in freshly boiling water till soft enough to pierce 
with a pin. Drain and put in a beanpot, burying the salt pork 
in them. Mix the salt and mustard, then add the molasses 
and i c. boiling water, and pour over the beans. Add enough 
more boiling water to cover the beans and keep them covered 
with water till the last hour, then draw the pork to the surface 
and let it brown a little. Bake 6 or 8 hr. 

Lima beans a la Creole. Additional ingredients : \ green 
pepper (finely chopped), I red pepper (cut in strips), I tsp. 
grated horse-radish. Soak beans overnight and cook till tender, 
then drain. Cook onion and green pepper in butter for 2 or 
3 min. Add the beans with other ingredients and simmer 
io min. Serve with strips of buttered toast. 



94 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Kidney beans and rice. Additional ingredients;, \ c. rice, 
i lb. bacon. Soak beans several hours and boil till tender, 
allowing water almost to evaporate at the last. Boil the rice 
and drain well. Cook onion in butter for 2 or 3 min. Add 
beans, tomato (prepared as for Lima beans a la creole (p. 93)), 
seasonings, and bacon (fried crisp and cut in tiny cubes). 
Reheat mixture and serve around the rice, which should be 
molded in the center of a platter. 

Lentil rolls. Additional ingredients : 1 tsp. any bottled meat 
sauce, \ tsp. paprika. Soak and cook lentils, drain well, and 
rub through a strainer. Add the other ingredients, make into 
round flat cakes, and saute on both sides in hot drippings. 
Serve with fried apples. Or the mixture may be rolled in small 
cylindrical shapes, dipped in buttered crumbs, and browned in 
the oven. Serve with Sauce piqnante (p. 30). 

Boston roast. Additional ingredients: ^ c. grated cheese, 
1 c. soft bread crumbs, \ c. chopped nuts, \ tsp. paprika. Use 
any cooked dried beans or peas for the foundation. Rub 
through a strainer and add other ingredients, using only 
enough of the milk to make the mixture soft enough to shape. 
Make into a roll, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake till 
brown in a rather hot oven. Serve with Tomato sance (p. 31). 

Nut loaf. Additional ingredients: 2 c. soft bread crumbs, 
i tb. chopped parsley, \ tsp. each sage and thyme, i tsp. pa- 
prika. Use walnuts or peanuts for foundation. Grate the 
bread crumbs, add to them the other ingredients, and bake 30 
to 45 min. in a buttered bread-pan. Serve with Brown sauce 
(p. 30) or Tomato sauce (p. 31). 



VII 
FATS AND OILS 

Source. Vegetable : olives, peanuts, cottonseed, etc. Animal : 
meat and fish, butter, etc. 

Food Value. Chiefly as a source of fat. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 

SALAD DRESSINGS 



Olive 
Oil 



Vine- 
gar 



Salt 



Pa- 
prika 



Cay- 
enne 
Pepper 



Egg 



Egg 
Yolk 



Mus- 
tard 



Price 



Plain mayonnaise . 
Three-minute may- 
onnaise 
Cooked mayonnaise 
French dressing . 



i c. 
i c. 
3 tb. 



2tb. 

i tb. 

i tb. 



£tsp. 

I tsp. 
i^tsp. 
£tsp. 



itsp. 

irtsp. 
itsp. 
itsp. 



Spk. 

Spk. 

Spk. 
Spk. 



itsp. 

|tsp. 
i tsp, 
itsp. 



General Directions. Materials should be chilled but not ice- 
cold. Vinegar or lemon juice may be used or a mixture of 
both, i tsp. powdered sugar may be added if desired. 

Plain mayonnaise. Mix the dry ingredients and add to egg 
yolk. Stir in a little of the vinegar, then a few drops of oil, 
and continue to add alternately till all materials have been 
used. Mix with a wooden or silver spoon or an egg-beater, 
but oil must be added slowly. 

Three-minute mayonnaise. Mix dry ingredients with the 
vinegar. Add egg, being careful not to break the yolk. Add 
^ c. oil and beat with egg-beater i min. Add 1 c. oil and 
beat another minute. Add remaining oil and beat a third 
minute. Then if more vinegar is needed, a little may be 
beaten into the dressing. 

95 



9 6 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Cooked mayonnaise. Additional ingredient : 6 tb. flour. 
Chill the oil. Mix flour with 3 tb. of the oil. Heat vinegar 
and water, and when they boil, stir in the flour paste and 
cook till thick and smooth. Set aside to cool. Beat the egg, 
add seasonings, then beat in the flour mixture, a little at a time. 
Add remaining oil, | c. at a time, till all is used. If inclined 
to curdle, add a little vinegar alternately with the oil. 

French dressing. Mix in order given and stir till well 
blended. 

Sweet French dressing. For any fruit salad, add 1 tb. pow- 
dered sugar to the dry ingredients in the above recipe for 
French dressing and use lemon juice in place of vinegar. 
Beat well with an egg-beater. 

Salads 
Source. General. 

Food Value. A source of fats and mineral salts. 
Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 





Foun- 
dation* 


Let- 
tuce 


Cel- 
ery 


French 
Dress- 
ing 


May- 
on- 
naise 


Cream 
Dress- 
ing 


Butter 
Dress- 
ing 


Salt 


Pa- 
prika 


Price 


Vegetable salad . 


2 C. 


I 


I C. 


— 


— 


— 


1 rule 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Celery and apple 






















salad .... 


4 


I 


I c. 


— 


— 


i rule 


— 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Bird's-nest salad . 


2 c. 


— 


— 


i rule 


— 


— 


— 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Pineapple salad . 


4 slices 


I 


— 


1 rule 


— 


— 


— 


itsp. 


Spk. 




Egg-and-sardine 






















salad .... 


4 


I 


— 


— 


— 


1 rule 


— 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Fish salad . . . 


2 c. 


I 


I c. 


1 rule 


irule 


— 


— 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Lobster salad . . 


2 lb. 


I 


— 


1 rule 


Irule 


— 


— 


i tsp. 


itsp. 




Meat salad . . . 


1-2 c. 


I 


I c. 


1 rule 


3- rule 


— 


— 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Tomato jelly salad 


2 c. 


I 


— 


— 


irule 


— 


— 


1 tsp. 


itsp. 




Tomato salad . 


4 


I 


— 


— 


irule 


— 


— 


i£tsp. 


itsp. 





General Directions. Prepare salads just before serving, as they 
wilt if allowed to stand long. Keep cold. Serve extra dressing 
with salad if desired. Any recipe for mayonnaise may be used, 
or a boiled dressing may be substituted. 



FATS AND OILS 97 

Vegetable salad. Use potatoes as a foundation. Cut in 
cubes ; freshen the celery and cut in small strips. Mix pota- 
toes with Butter salad dressing (p. 69) while hot, chill, and 
add celery and the other seasonings. Serve on lettuce leaves. 
Peas, beets, or other vegetables may be substituted for celery. 
If salad is a little dry, add 1 or 2 tb. cream or top of milk. 
Cooked mayonnaise (p. 96) may be used if preferred. 

Celery and apple salad. Pare and core apples and cut into 
small cubes. Let stand in ice water to which a little lemon 
juice has been added. Prepare celery by chopping or cutting 
it, add apple drained thoroughly, mix with the salad dressing, 
and serve at once on lettuce or without. May be served in 
apples with inside scooped out. The pulp should be used in 
the salad. 

Bird's-nest salad. Additional ingredients: 1 small cream 
cheese, 1 tb. finely chopped nuts. Use cabbage as a founda- 
tion, preparing as directed (p. 16). Mash the cheese, season, 
and make into 12 egg-shaped balls. Roll them in the chopped 
nuts. Drain cabbage thoroughly and mix with French dress- 
ing. Place on individual plates in shape of nests and put 
3 cheese balls in each. Lettuce may be used on the plates 
if desired. 

Pineapple salad. Additional ingredient : 8 maraschino 
cherries. Cut slices of canned pineapple so as to give a fan- 
shaped appearance to the outer edge. Arrange on lettuce 
leaves and season. Quarter the cherries and use for garnishing 
the slices of pineapple. Pour sweet French dressing over all. 

Egg-and-sardine salad. Additional ingredients : 8 sardines, 
8 stuffed olives. Cook eggs hard, chop whites, and rub yolks 
through a strainer. Shred the coarse leaves of lettuce and 
mix with them the whites of the eggs and the sardines (freed 
from skin and bones and broken in small pieces). Add the 
salad dressing and seasonings. When thoroughly mixed arrange 
on lettuce leaves, cover with the sifted yolks, and garnish with 
olives (cut in slices to show the pepper). 



98 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Fish salad. Use haddock, halibut, or salmon. Remove 
bones and skin, and flake the fish fine. Shred the coarser 
lettuce leaves, reserving the bleached ones for garnishing. 
Mix fish, shredded lettuce, and French dressing ; season and 
serve on lettuce leaves. Garnish with mayonnaise. Cooked 
dressing may be used for both oil dressings if preferred. 

Lobster salad. Remove lobster from shell ; clean and cut in 
small cubes and marinate with French dressing. Wash and 
dry the lettuce and shred the coarser leaves. Mix lettuce with 
the lobster and add a little of the mayonnaise and seasonings. 
Arrange in nests of the smaller lettuce leaves and put a 
spoonful of mayonnaise on each. More lettuce may be used. 

Shrimp salad. Remove shrimps from can and let stand in 
ice water for 20 min. Drain and remove vein and break in 
small pieces ; proceed as for Lobster salad. 

Meat salad. Veal may be used as a basis for this salad or 
cold lamb. If the latter is chosen, use \ cold ham to | lamb. 
The meat should be cut in small cubes entirely free from fat 
or gristle, and the celery (cut fine) mixed with it. Then pro- 
ceed as for Lobster salad (above), omitting the shredded lettuce 
if desired. 

Chicken salad. Make as for Meat salad, allowing equal 
parts of celery and chicken. 

Tomato jelly salad. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. gran, 
gelatin, 1 tsp. sugar, | tsp. scraped onion, \ c. cold water. 
Soak gelatin for 10 min. in ic. cold water, add to the hot 
tomato, stir till dissolved, season, and pour into small wet 
molds to harden. When firm, turn onto lettuce leaves and 
garnish with mayonnaise. 

Tomato salad. Scald tomatoes, peel, slice, and chill. Wash 
and dry the lettuce, removing wilted leaves, wrap in cheese- 
cloth, and keep on ice till ready to use. Arrange lettuce leaves 
on a platter or on plates for individual serving, place sliced 
tomatoes on them, season, and garnish with mayonnaise. 



FATS AND OILS 



99 



CROQUETTES, FISH BALLS, ETC. 

Source. General. 

Food Value. Contain all the food principles. 

Cost. See market prices and cost of individual items. 

General Directions. Frying. Frying is cooking food in 
enough hot fat to cover. The fat used must be inexpensive, 
as so much is required ; it should also be free from mois- 
ture, as water causes fat to spatter badly when heated to the 
high temperature required. Fats suitable for frying are lard, 
lard substitutes, drippings, etc. ; butter is undesirable because 
it is expensive and likely to spatter and burn. If food to be 
fried has not been previously cooked, the fat used should 
be hot enough to brown a bit of bread while one is count- 
ing 60. If the food has been cooked, count 40 while bread is 
browning. Reheat fat before putting in more food. When fat 
has been used for frying, it may be clarified for subsequent 
use, by cutting some slices of raw potato into it, heating slowly, 
and proceeding as for drippings. Be careful not to pour the 
sediment from the fat into the pail. 

Drippings may be prepared at home from any pieces of 
sweet meat fat, preferably beef. Cut the fat in small pieces 
and put in a deep kettle with about 1 in. of cold water. Heat 
slowly, stirring constantly, and cook gently till bubbling ceases. 
Cool slightly and strain through cheesecloth into a tin pail. 





Basis 


Po- 
tato 


Milk 


But- 
ter 


Floi'r 


Egg 


Salt 


Pa- 
prika 


Price 


Fried potatoes .... 


— . 


3 c 


— 


— 


— 


— 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Fish balls ....... 


1 c. 


2 C. 


— 


i tb. 


— 


I 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Potato croquettes . . . 


— 


2 C. 


— 


1 tb. 


— 


1 yolk 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Rice croquettes .... 


2 c. 


— 


— 


1 tb. 


— 


1 


itsp. 


itsp. 




Sweet rice croquettes . . 


2 C. 


— 


— 


itb. 


— 


1 yolk 


itsp. 


— 




Meat-and-potato croquettes 


I C. 


2 C. 


— 


1 tb. 


— 


1 


1 tsp. 


Itsp. 




Fish croquettes .... 


2 C. 


— 


I c. 


2 tb. 


4tb. 


— 


1 tsp. 


f tsp. 




Meat croquettes .... 


2 C. 


— 


I c. 


2 tb. 


4tb. 


— 


1 tsp. 


1 tsp. 





IOO THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Test fat as directed. Have a dripping-pan with brown paper 
in it near the stove. Fish balls and potatoes should be lifted 
from the fat with a skimmer and drained on the paper. Cro- 
quettes should be fried in a frying-basket and turned from 
that onto the paper. To shape croquettes take up I tb. of the 
mixture, roll into a ball, and then into a short cylinder. Dip 
in crumbs, in egg, and in crumbs again, before frying. The 
crumbs should be made from bread, dried in the oven, rolled 
fine, and then sifted. Dilute the egg with 2 tb. milk or water. 
Either white or yolk may be used, though less satisfactory 
than the whole egg. (This is in addition to any eggs called 
for in the list of ingredients.) A thorough coating of eggs 
and crumbs is required to hold croquettes in shape. 

Fried potatoes. Wash and pare medium-sized potatoes and 
cut in long strips about i in. thick. Let stand in cold water for 
i- hr. ; then drain, and dry thoroughly. Fry and drain according 
to directions for Frying (p. 99). Sprinkle with salt and paprika. 

Fish balls. Use salt fish and cut potatoes in cubes. Keep 
fish in cold water while shredding it. Prepare the potatoes, 
put them with the fish into boiling water, and cook till potatoes 
are soft but not watery. Drain thoroughly and beat till light. 
Add seasoning and egg (well beaten), beat well, and drop by 
the spoonful into hot fat. 

Potato croquettes. Additional ingredients: 1 tb. chopped 
parsley, \ tsp. scraped onion. Use hot riced potato, add other 
ingredients, shape, and fry according to General Directions. 

Rice croquettes. Additional ingredients : 1 tb. chopped pars- 
ley, 1 tb. tomato catsup, 1 tsp. any bottled meat sauce. Use 
cold boiled rice. Mix all together, shape, and fry according 
to General Directions. 

Sweet rice croquettes. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. sugar, 
spk. nutmeg, f c. rice (measured before cooking). Cook rice 
in water in a double boiler till very soft. Add butter, sugar, 
salt, and egg yolk, using a little milk to moisten if mixture 
seems very dry. Shape, dip in egg and crumbs, and proceed 



FATS AND OILS 



IOI 



as for Potato croquettes (p. ioo) ; or shape in balls, making a 
slight depression in center to be filled with jelly when served. 

Meat-and-potato croquettes. Additional ingredients : \ tsp. 
onion juice, i tsp. any bottled meat sauce. Make like potato 
croquettes, adding chopped meat of any kind. 

Fish croquettes. Additional ingredients : I tsp. lemon juice, 
spk. nutmeg, I bay leaf (scalded with milk). Use salmon, hali- 
but, haddock, or lobster. Mix with a white sauce made from 
milk, flour, and butter ; season and chill. Shape and fry like 
Potato eroqitettes (p. ioo). A little scraped onion may be 
added. All the sauce may not be needed, but mixture should 
be as soft as can be handled. 

Meat croquettes. Additional ingredients: spk. nutmeg, 
\ tsp. onion juice, I tsp. lemon juice. Use these for lamb, 
chicken, or veal croquettes. For beef croquettes substitute 
stock for milk and any bottled meat sauce for lemon juice. 
Prepare like Fish croquettes (above). 

PASTRY 
Source. General. 

Food Value. For fat and carbohydrates. 

Cost. See cost of individual items. 





Flour 


BAKING- 
l'OWDER 


Salt 


Butter 


Lard 


Eggs 


Water 


Price 


Quick paste . . 


2 C. 


4 tsp. 


i tsp. 


3 tb. 


3 tb - 


— 


*c. 




Chopped paste 


i£ c. 


— 


i tsp. 


4 tb. 


6tb. 


— 


*c. 




Plain paste . . . 


ii c. 


— 


i tsp. 


4 tb. 


8 tb. 


— 


ic. 




Egg paste . . . 


4 c. 


— 


J tsp. 


4 tb. 


— 


ii 


i c. 




Pates 


i| c. 





4 tsp. 


4 tb. 


8 tb. 


— 


£c. 





General Directions. Butter, lard, and water should be ice-cold, 
except for Egg paste. Handle pastry as little as possible and 
avoid using too much flour in rolling. Lard substitutes may 
be used in place of the lard and butter, although the pastry is 
usually more satisfactory if directions are followed. 



102 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Quick paste. Sift all dry ingredients into a chopping-bowl. 
Chop in the shortening, add enough cold water to make a 
stiff dough, roll to about | in. thick, and use at once. Suit- 
able for Meat pie (p. 79), Apple dumplings (p. 104), etc. 

Chopped paste. Mix salt and flour, put in chopping-tray, add 
lard and butter, and chop till well mixed. Moisten to a dough 
with cold water, toss on floured cloth, pat, and roll out. Fold 
to make three layers, turn halfway round, pat, and roll out in 
long, narrow strip. Roll up like a jelly roll and cut in halves, 
using one half for each crust. Use for pies and turnovers. 
Requires a hot oven. 

Plain paste. Wash butter, pat, and form in circular piece. 
Add salt to flour and work in lard with fingers or case knife. 
Moisten to a dough with cold water. Toss on floured board, 
pat, and roll out. Lay butter in center of lower half and fold 
dough over it, turning upper half over it. Then turn right side 
of pastry over, the left side under, the butter ; pat and roll out. 
Fold so as to make three layers, turn halfway round, pat, and roll 
out; repeat; then roll as for Chopped paste (above), making roll 
short and thick. Use for pies, turnovers, or tarts. Pastry may 
be used at once or folded in cheesecloth or waxed paper and 
placed in cold place, not on ice. Requires a rather hot oven. 

Egg paste. Put butter and boiling water in a saucepan over 
the fire ; when it boils add flour and salt, and stir until mixture 
leaves sides of pan, keeping it over the heat. Then turn mix- 
ture into a bowl, cool, and beat in the unbeaten yolk of 1 egg ; 
when smooth add 1 whole egg and continue beating until the 
paste is smooth. 

Chou cases. Cut six rounds of paste from Quick paste (above) 
with a large-sized cooky-cutter and pipe Egg paste around the 
edges of these, using a pastry bag. Bake in a moderate oven 
till brown. Use as cases for creamed fish or meat, prepared 
as directed for Scalloped meat (p. 36) or Scalloped fish (p. 36), 
omitting the crumbs. Trimmings left from pies may be used 
for the rounds of paste. 



FATS AND OILS 



103 



Pates. Roll and cut the paste with biscuit-cutter and 
doughnut-cutter, making three times as many rings as rounds. 
Moisten edge of each round and place three rings on it, mois- 
tening the lower one. Bake about 20 min. in a moderate oven. 
Fill with oysters, chicken, lobster, etc., reheated in white sauce, 
and well seasoned. ( Allow 2 c. sauce to 1^ c. meat or fish. 

Tarts. Make and shape as for Pates, using only two rings 
for each tart. Fill with jelly or jam. 



Pie and Tart Fillings 





Fruit 


Sugar 


Watek 


Milk 


Eggs 


Butter 


Salt 


Flour 


Paste 


Price 


Apple dumplings . 


6 


ic 














I rule 




Apple pie . . . . 


6 


I c. 


ic. 


— 


— 


— 


Spk. 


— 


i rule 




Apricot pie . 




2 c. 


I c. 


— 


— 


— 


— 


Spk. 


— 


1 rule 




Mock mince pie 




2 c. 


I c. 


— 


— 


I 


2 tb. 


— 


— 


1 rule 




Custard pie . 




— 


ic. 


— 


2 C. 


3 


1 tsp. 


Spk. 


— 


irule 




Squash pie 




— 


ic. 


— 


I C. 


1 


— 


Spk. 


— 


irule 




Lemon pie 




3 


lie. 


2 C. 


— 


3 


— 


i-tsp. 


8tb. 


irule 




Orange pie . 




1 


f c 


I C. 


— 


3 


3tb. 


Spk. 


4 tb. 


irule 




Chocolate pie 




— 


— 


I C. 


— 


2 


2 tb. 


Spk. 


4 tb. 


irule 




Butterscotch pie 


— 


I c. 


— 


lie. 


2 


2 tb. 


Spk. 


6tb. 


£rule 




Florentine meringue 


— 


4 tb. 


— 


— 


4 


— 


— 


— 


irule 




Banbury tarts 


1 c. 


1 c. 


— 


— 


1 


— 


— 


— 


irule 





General Directions. Apple pie, Apricot pie, and Mock mince 
pie will require upper and under crusts, the other pies only an 
under crust and rim. Either paste may be used, as preferred. 
Roll the two crusts separately about 1 in. thick, keeping the 
paste as nearly round as possible. Cut paste somewhat larger 
than the pie-plate and fit it in loosely to allow for shrinking. 
Put in the under crust, brush with white of egg (to prevent 
filling from soaking into it), and make an edge with strips of 
the paste, holding them in place by moistening the top of each 
layer with cold water. Fill the pie and put on the top crust ; 
press edges together lightly and cut slits in the crust to let 
steam escape. 2 to 3 c. fruit will generally be needed for 1 pie. 



104 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

For a pie with under crust only, build up the edges with strips 
of paste to make it the required depth. Whenever possible, if 
the filling does not require a long cooking, bake the pastry- 
shell over an inverted pie-plate, pricking it many times with 
a fork to prevent the formation of air bubbles, then fill and 
finish cooking. 

Apple dumplings. Use rule for Quick paste (p. 102). Roll 
out the dough and cut in six equal pieces, as nearly square as 
possible. Wash, pare, and core the apples, put one in the center 
of each square, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon, fold dough 
over them, pressing edges together, and bake in a buttered 
pan in a hot oven till crust is brown and fruit tender. Serve 
with a sweet pudding sauce. 

Apple pie. Prepare and slice the apples. Line plate as 
directed, put in the apples, add sugar, salt, and water, and finish 
according to General Directions. Bake about 40 min. in a hot 
oven, reducing the heat after pie begins to brown. A little 
grated lemon rind or \- tsp. cinnamon or nutmeg may be added 
if desired. 

Peach pie, Berry pie, or Cherry pie. Make according to 
recipe for Apple pie, reducing the amount of water if fruit is 
very juicy. Any of these may be baked in a deep pudding- 
dish, with only an upper crust. 

Apricot pie. Use stewed dried apricots, sweeten to taste, 
and proceed as for Apple pie (above). 

Dried peach pie or Dried prune pie. Make by recipe for 
Apricot pie. Flavor with lemon juice and lemon rind and 
remove stones from prunes. 

Mock mince pie. Additional ingredient : 1 lemon (juice and 
grated rind). Use raisins and rhubarb for the fruit. Chop them, 
and add the other ingredients. Mix well and bake with two crusts. 

Custard pie. Additional ingredients : i tsp. vanilla, a little 
nutmeg. Scald the milk ; beat eggs slightly, add sugar and 
salt, and pour on slowly the hot milk. Flavor and turn into a 
pie-plate lined with one crust according to General Directions. 



FATS AND OILS 105 

Bake about 30 min. in a rather hot oven, reducing heat when 
custard begins to set. 

Squash pie. Additional ingredients : \ tsp. nutmeg or cin- 
namon, 1 1 c. cooked and sifted squash. Scald the milk; mix 
sugar, egg, salt, spice, and milk. Pour this on the squash. 
Strain. Line pie-plate, pour in the squash mixture, and bake 
till crust is brown and the filling firm. 

Lemon pie. Additional ingredient: 6 tb. powdered sugar. 
Use juice and grated rind of the lemons. Bake a pastry shell 
according to General Directions and fill with a mixture made 
as follows : Mix dry ingredients, add lemon and egg yolks, 
and stir in slowly the boiling water. Cook in a double boiler 
for 15 min., stirring till thick. Turn this into the shell and 
cover with a meringue made from the whites of eggs and 
powdered sugar. Bake 10 min. in a moderate oven. 

Orange pie. Additional ingredients : juice ^ lemon, 4 tb. 
powdered sugar. Use both rind and juice of orange. Make 
like Lemon pie (above), putting white of 1 egg into the filling 
and reserving the other 2 for a meringue. 

Chocolate pie. Additional ingredients : 2 tsp. vanilla, 3 oz. 
chocolate, 2 tb. powdered sugar. Mix sugar, flour, and salt ; 
add the beaten yolks of eggs, the butter, and the boiling 
water with chocolate melted in it. Cook till thick, stirring 
constantly. Flavor and pour into a pie-shell made according 
to General Directions. Cover with a meringue made from the 
whites of eggs and powdered sugar, and bake about 10 min. 
in a moderate oven. 

Butterscotch pie. Additional ingredients : 4 tb. powdered 
sugar, 1 tsp. lemon juice. Use brown sugar for the filling. 
Scald 1 c. milk ; mix flour and salt with rest of cold milk, 
pour on the hot milk, return to double boiler, and cook till 
smooth and thick, stirring constantly. Melt butter, add sugar, 
and cook till mixture bubbles. Stir into the cornstarch mixture, 
then add the 2 egg yolks. Pour into a pie-shell, cover with 
a meringue, and bake about 10 min. 



106 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Florentine meringue. Additional ingredients : raspberry 
jam, chopped almonds. Use powdered sugar and whites of 
eggs only. Roll the paste into a sheet, cut in strips 2x4 in., 
and bake till light brown. Spread with jam, cover with a 
meringue, sprinkle with chopped almonds, and bake about 
10 min. in a moderate oven. Trimmings left from pies may 
be used for these. 

Banbury tarts. Additional ingredients: rind and juice of 
1 lemon, 1 common cracker, rolled fine. Beat egg slightly 
and add other ingredients. Roll out the paste and cut with 
large round cooky-cutter. Place 2 tsp. of the filling on ^ the 
paste, cover with the other rounds, press edges together, and 
bake about 20 min. in a rather hot oven. 

Melba tarts. Make chou cases (p. 102) and fill with 
apricot jam. 



VIII 
FROZEN DESSERTS 

Source. General. 

Food Value. For carbohydrates, protein, and fat. 

Cost. See cost of individual items. 



Cream 



Sugar 



Fruit 
Juice 



Fruit 



Eggs 



Gela- 
tin 



Lem- 
ons 



Price 



Orange ice . . . 
Pineapple sherbet . 
Lemon milk sherbet 
Custard ice cream . 
Vanilla ice cream . 
Ginger mousse . 



4 c. 
4 c. 



4 c. 
3 c - 

2 C. 
2 C. 



lie. 
i^c. 
i c. 
I c. 



i tb. 



i tb. 



General Directions. The ice-cream freezer should be thor- 
oughly scalded before being used. Allow 3 parts of ice to 
1 part of salt for freezing ice cream or sherbet ; equal parts 
of ice and salt for packing a mousse. The crank should be 
turned slowly. Always wipe cover before removing it, pushing 
down the ice and salt so that they cannot fall into the cream. 
Any crushed acid fruit or juice may be substituted for that 
required in Orange ice or Pineapple sherbet. Ice cream may be 
flavored with extracts or 3 tb. cocoa, 1 c. pounded macaroons, 
4 tb. sugar (caramelized), or 1 c. sliced bananas, peaches, or 
crushed strawberries or preserved ginger may be added. Pre- 
served fruit and juice may also be used, in which case it should 
be substituted for part of the milk. These recipes are for thin 
cream. Heavy cream may be used for richer mixtures. 

Orange ice. Boil sugar and water 20 min. Add other in- 
gredients, strain, and freeze. 

107 



108 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Pineapple ice. Make like Orange ice, substituting 2 c. grated 
pineapple for the orange juice. Leave pineapple in the sirup. 

Lemon ice. Use recipe for Orange ice, substituting the juice 
of 4 more lemons for the orange juice. 

Pineapple sherbet. Make like Pineapple ice (above), soaking 
the gelatin in | c. cold water and dissolving it in the sirup. 
The fruit should not be strained from the sirup. 

Lemon milk sherbet. Mix juice and sugar and stir con- 
stantly while adding the cold milk ; strain and freeze. 

Custard ice cream. Additional ingredients : 2 tb. flour, \ tb. 
vanilla. Omit vanilla and use lemon juice if fruit is added to 
the ice cream. Mix flour and sugar, add 2 c. of the milk, and 
cook 15 min. in a double boiler, stirring often. Add the eggs 
(1 or 2 may be used), cook 3 min., strain, and cool. Add the 
other ingredients, folding in the whipped cream last. Freeze 
according to General Directions. 

Chocolate ice cream. Add 2 oz. melted chocolate to cooked 
mixture of Ctistard ice cream. 

Vanilla ice cream. Add 1 c. of the milk to the cream and 
whip until foamy. Add other ingredients and freeze. See 
General Directions for use of fruit or chocolate. 

Ginger mousse. Make as for Ginger cream (p. 82). When 
thick turn into a melon mold, cover tightly, sealing with a strip 
of cloth dipped in melted drippings, and pack in ice and salt 
from 1 to 3 hr. Other fruits may be used. 

Coffee mousse. Use recipe for Ginger mousse, omitting 
ginger and substituting 1 c. coffee for 1 c. of the milk. 



IX 
CANNING AND PRESERVING 

By careful preparation and sterilization, fruits and vegetables 
may be cooked in their season and kept for winter use by 
being sealed tightly in glass jars. 

Canning implies the use of little or no sugar. Sound fruit 
and vegetables, not overripe, should be selected. Wash and 
prepare according to kind, remove imperfections, and pack in 
sterilized jars. If vegetables are used, add I tb. salt for each 
pint jar, and fill to overflowing with cold water. Put on the 
covers, but do not use rubbers or fasten the clamp at first. 
Set jars on a rack in a large boiler of cold water, cover closely, 
bring to boiling point, and boil I hr. Remove jars from water 
and clamp on the cover. Repeat the cooking process for 2 days 
in succession, being careful to unclamp covers while cooking. 
At the third cooking the covers should be removed quickly, 
just before the jars are put back into the cold water, and rub- 
bers, dipped in boiling water, placed on them. This method 
is called intermittent sterilization, and food so prepared keeps 
well, as both spores and bacteria are destroyed. Tomatoes may 
be stewed, then canned as above, without water. If fruit is used, 
pack it into the jars after preparing and weighing it, and fill 
the jars with sirup instead of cold water. The amount of sirup 
to make may be determined by allowing ^ to | lb. sugar to 
each pound of fruit according to its sweetness, and 2 c. water 
for each pint jar. Sirup should be boiled from 5 to 10 min. 
before being added to the fruit. 

Two precautions should be observed in this method of can- 
ning — the jars should always be put on to heat in water of 
the same temperature as the contents of the jar, and they 
should not touch during the cooking process. 

109 



no THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

To sterilize jars wash, fill with cold water, place on a rack 
in a pan containing enough cold water almost to cover them, 
bring to boiling point, and boil 15 min. Do not empty till 
ready to fill with fruit. Covers also should be sterilized. 

Preserving requires more sugar than canning. The fruit 
should be washed and prepared as for canning, and a sirup 
made, allowing l to 1 lb. sugar for each pound of fruit and only 
enough water to dissolve the sugar. Cook the fruit in this 
sirup till tender and seal in sterilized jars as in canning. 

Hard pears, quinces, etc., are better if cooked in clear water 
till almost tender, as long cooking with sugar tends to harden 
the fruit. Use the water in which they were cooked for 
making the sirup. 

JELLY-MAKING 

General Directions. Wash fruit, cut in small pieces, and if 
hard fruits like apples and crab apples are used, almost cover 
with water ; grapes and currants should be washed, but will 
require no water. Cook till fruit is very soft, drain through a 
coarse sieve, then put in jelly bag and drain overnight. Allow 
equal amounts of juice and sugar. Boil juice 20 min. Heat 
sugar, add to juice, and boil 5 min. Skim and pour into 
sterilized glasses. 

Orange marmalade. Ingredients: 

3 oranges 2 qt. water 

1 lemon 4 qt. sugar 

Use all the fruit except the seeds. Cut fruit into small pieces, 
and rind into thin strips. Add the cold water and let stand 
24 hr. Boil for 2 hr. uncovered, add sugar, and boil for 20 min. 
Put in sterilized glasses or jars. 
Amber marmalade. Ingredients : 

1 lemon 1 orange 

1 grapefruit Sugar 

Water 



CANNING AND PRESERVING in 

Wash fruit and cut up small. Measure and add three times as 
much water. Soak overnight ; then boil till tender. Let stand 
overnight again, measure, add three times as much sugar, and 
boil till thick and jellylike (about 2 hr.). Put into sterilized 
glasses or jars. 

PICKLING 

The preservative action of vinegar and spices is so effective 
that unless there is much moisture, pickles may be kept in 
covered crocks or jars. If liquid, they should, however, be 
sealed like preserves. Vegetables should be washed thoroughly 
and all decayed portions removed. 

Soy. Ingredients : 

1 pk. ripe tomatoes (peeled and sliced) 
8 onions (sliced thin) 
i c. salt 

Let stand 24 hr. Drain off liquid and add 2 qt. vinegar, 1 tb. 
mustard, 1 tb. ginger, 1 tb. cloves, 1 tb. allspice, | tb. cayenne 
pepper. Cook slowly from 2 to 3 hr. When nearly done add 
2 lb. sugar and \ lb. mustard seed. 
Piccalilli. Ingredients : 

2 qt. green tomatoes 1 qt. vinegar 

1 qt. onions Salt 

1 tb. each whole cloves, cinnamon, and allspice* 

Slice the tomatoes and onions, put in agate kettle in layers, 
sprinkling each layer with salt. Let stand overnight. In the 
morning drain, add spices and vinegar, and cook till vegetables 
are tender. 

Aristocratic pickle. Ingredients : 

1 2 cucumbers f c. olive oil 

4 onions \ c. white mustard seed 

1 qt. vinegar 1 c. black mustard seed 

\ c. celery seed 1 c. salt 

Slice the cucumbers and onions thin, put in a bowl in layers, 
sprinkling each layer with salt, and let stand overnight. Drain ; 



112 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

add mustard and celery seed and vinegar. Mix well and put 
into jars at once, pouring a generous tablespoonful of oil over 
the pickles. 

Pepper hash. Ingredients : 

12 large green peppers 2 tb. salt 

12 red peppers 2 c. granulated sugar 

3 onions 1 qt. vinegar 

Chop first three ingredients fine, cover with boiling water, 
let stand 10 min., then bring to boiling point. Drain very dry, 
add other ingredients, and boil 20 min. 
Mustard pickle. Ingredients : 

1 cauliflower 3 cucumbers 

1 qt. string beans 1 pt. green tomatoes 

1 root celery 2 peppers 

1 pt. button onions 15 small cucumbers 

Wash and prepare vegetables, cutting or breaking into small 
pieces. Let stand 24 hr. Cook cauliflower, beans, onions, 
tomatoes, and peppers till tender ; then add celery and cucum- 
bers and cook 10 min. in the following sauce : 

\ c. flour \ c. brown sugar 

\ c. mustard 1 tb. salt 

\ tb. turmeric 5 c. vinegar 

Mix all the dry ingredients, add vinegar slowly, and stir till 
perfectly smooth. Cook, stirring constantly, till quite thick. 
Pour over pickles as directed, then bottle and seal. 
Cucumber pickles. Ingredients : 

100 cucumbers 1 pt. salt 

8 qt. water Vinegar 

12 cloves 12 peppercorns 

Wash cucumbers. Cover with a brine made from the salt and 
water and let stand overnight. In morning drain and cover 
with boiling water. Let cucumbers stand in this till heated 
through. Drain, place in a crock with the spices tied in a bag, 
and cover with boiling vinegar. 



X 

FOOD FOR INVALIDS 

In preparing food for invalids or convalescents, the instruc- 
tions of a physician should be obtained and carefully followed. 
Diets may be classified as follows : 

i. Fluid diet 

2. Light soft diet 

3. Soft, or convalescent, diet 

4. Special diets 

In general the first is suitable for patients with slight fever, 
the second for those who may have very easily digested solid 
food, the third for convalescents, the fourth for patients who 
must omit some one class of foodstuffs entirely. 

All should be daintily and attractively served, in small 
amounts. 

FLUID DIET 

This diet comprises such foods as milk, broths, beef juice, 
beef tea, tea, coffee, cocoa, lemonade, barley water, rice water, 
toast water, albumenized fruit juice, gruels, and milk soups. 
Many of the recipes may be found in their respective places ; 
recipes follow for those not previously given. 

Eggnog. Beat 1 egg; add | tb. sugar and beat well. Add 
I c. milk or cream and flavor with 1 tsp. vanilla, or 1 tb. brandy, 
or 1 tb. coffee extract. Strain into a glass and serve cold. 

Fruit eggnog. Make as above, using 2 tb. sugar, | c. water, 
and i c. chopped ice. Use 2 tb. fruit juice in place of milk 
and flavoring. 

Whey. Warm 1 c. milk. Add l c. wine or 2 tb. lemon 
juice. Let stand in a warm place until a firm curd is formed 
(about 30 min.). Then strain through double cheesecloth. 

"3 



114 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Oyster broth or clam broth. Ingredients : | c. oysters or 
clams, | c. milk or water. Pick over and wash shellfish and 
chop fine. Put into a saucepan with the liquid and bring slowly 
to boiling point, but do not boil. Strain through cheesecloth 
and add salt to taste. 

Beef juice. Ingredient : i lb. round steak. Wipe with a 
damp cloth and cut in small pieces. Put in a dry pan and 
shake over the fire till hot but not cooked. Heat meat-press 
in boiling water, drain, put in the hot meat, and press out all 
the juice possible. Repeat heating of both meat and press to 
extract remainder of juice. Keep hot till ready to serve, but 
never boil. Season with salt. Double cheesecloth may be used 
if no press is available. If preferred, steak may be broiled 
3 or 4 min., then gashed with a sharp knife and pressed. 

Beef tea. Ingredients : i lb. round steak, I pt. water. Cut meat 
in small pieces, discarding fat. Put meat, with the water, into 
a preserve jar with tight-fitting band and cover. Cover tightly 
and set jar on trivet in a saucepan of water at 140 F. Keep 
at that temperature for 2 hr. Pour off liquid, cool, remove 
fat, season with salt, and heat to 1 30 F. Serve in hot cup. 

Toast water. Ingredients : 2 slices toast (well browned and 
very dry), 1 c. boiling water. Break toast into small pieces in 
a bowl and add the boiling water. Let stand 1 hr., strain, season 
with salt, and add 1 or 2 tb. cream if desired. Serve cold or 
reheated. 

Barley water. Ingredients : 2 tb. barley, 1 qt. boiling water. 
Wash grain, add to boiling water, and boil 1 hr. ; strain, add 
1 tsp. salt, and serve hot. May be flavored with a little lemon 
juice if patient is not suffering from intestinal disorders. 

Rice zvater. Substitute 3 tb. rice for the barley and boil i hr. 
Serve like Barley zvater. 

Jelly water. Ingredients : 2 tb. grape or currant jelly, | c. 
boiling water. Beat jelly with silver fork till smooth. Add 
water and sweeten to taste. Lemon juice may be added if 
jelly lacks flavor. 



FOOD FOR INVALIDS 115 

Albumenized milk or albumenized fruit juice. Ingredients : 
white of 1 egg, | c. milk or juice of 1 lemon or orange. Put 
liquid and white of egg into glass jar with tight-fitting cover 
and band. Shake hard till well mixed, and strain into a glass 
for serving. When fruit juice is used, sweeten to taste. 

Oatmeal gruel. Method 1 . Ingredients : i c. whole oatmeal 
or \ c. rolled oats, 2 c. water, \ tsp. salt. Roll and pound oat- 
meal on board with rolling-pin. When floury put into a glass 
and fill with the water. Stir well and strain the milky liquid into 
a saucepan. Repeat till all the water has been used, then boil 
the oatmeal water for 30 min., stirring frequently. Season to 
taste with salt. 

Mctliod 2. i c. of oatmeal (or any other well-cooked cereal) 
may be rubbed through a strainer, then diluted with | c. hot 
milk or cream, and seasoned to taste. 

Rice-flour gruel. Ingredients : 1 tb. rice flour, \ tsp. salt, 
X c. boiling water, J c. milk. Scald milk. In top of double 
boiler mix the flour with enough cold water to form a paste. 
Add the boiling water. Boil 2 or 3 min. ; then set over lower 
part of double boiler and cook for 1 5 min., stirring frequently. 
Add the salt and scalded milk and serve in a hot cup or bowl. 

Barley flour, oat flour, farina, or cracker crumbs may be 
used in place of the rice flour. The cracker gruel is sufficiently 
cooked by boiling 2 or 3 min. For additional flavor or nourish- 
ment 6 raisins may be scalded with the milk, a few drops of 
lemon juice and a little sugar may be added at serving-time, or 
the whole or part of an egg may be beaten and added. 

LIGHT SOFT DIET 

This includes broths and soups with grains, cereals, eggs 
(poached and boiled), toasts, custards, jellies, junket, starchy 
puddings, ices, ice cream, and everything included in Fluid 
Diet (p. 113). Recipes for these will be found under their 
respective headings. 



Ii6 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

SOFT, OR CONVALESCENT, DIET 

In addition to the diets given on pages 1 1 3-1 1 5, a diet for con- 
valescents may be selected from the following foods : chicken, 
sweetbreads, squabs, white fish, bacon, eggs (except hard-cooked 
whites), potatoes (except fried), peas, asparagus, cauliflower, 
salads, fruits, desserts, occasionally chops or steak. Recipes for 
most of these dishes may be found by reference to the Index. 

Sweetbreads. Let stand 1 hr. in cold water, then drain. 
Add 1 tb. each of salt and vinegar to 1 qt. water, bring to 
the boiling point, add sweetbreads, and simmer 1 5 to 20 min. 
Drain and put into cold water. Cool quickly and remove 
membrane, fat, and veins. The meat may then be split and 
broiled for 10 min. ; or creamed and served on toast or in bread 
or potato cases ; or used as salad ; or rolled in beaten egg and 
bread crumbs and baked till brown, then served with White 
sauce (p. 30). Green peas are a suitable accompaniment for 
sweetbreads. 

Squab (and other small birds). For broiling, remove head 
and crop, singe, split down middle of back, remove internal 
organs, and cut off feet and tips of wings. Wipe thoroughly 
with damp cheesecloth, put into a slightly greased broiler, and 
cook over hot coals for 12 min., turning every 10 sec. Serve 
on hot toast, and season with butter, salt, and pepper. Garnish 
with currant jelly, peas, cress, or parsley. If gas stove is used, 
cook under the flame, turning only once when meat is half 
done. For roasting, remove head and crop, and then singe ; 
make small cut below end of breastbone and remove internal 
organs ; cut off feet ; wipe inside and out. Skewer into shape 
with toothpicks. Put into hot oven till surface is seared, then 
reduce heat and cook required time, basting frequently. Serve 
on toast, garnished as above. 



XI 
UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 

Sweet Tomato Pickle 

i pk. tomatoes 5 lb. sugar 

6 peppers 2 oz. allspice 

6 onions 2 oz. cloves 

3 pt. vinegar 4 oz. white mustard seed 

Slice the vegetables and let stand in a brine overnight. Drain ; add 
vinegar, sugar, and mustard seed, and spices in a bag. Cook till 
vegetables are soft, remove them, and cook sirup till thick. Return 
vegetables to sirup, reheat, and bottle. 

Grape Conserve 

4 lb. fruit 2 oranges 
1 lb. raisins 2 lemons 

1 c. walnut meats 5 lb. sugar 

Slip the grapes after washing and cook pulp till soft enough to 
strain. Wash oranges and lemons, quarter, and slice thin. Chop 
walnut meats. Mix grape pulp and skins, add other ingredients, 
cook till thick, and seal in sterilized jars. 





Bran Muffins 


i£ c. bran flour 


4 tb. sugar 


1 c. bread flour 


\ tsp. salt 


1 egg 


4 tb. molasses 


1 c. milk 


i- c. warm water 



1 tsp. soda 

Mix and bake as directed in General Directions for Muffins (p. 43), 
dissolving the soda in the warm water. 

117 



n8 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

RlCELETS 

i c. cold boiled rice 4 tb. sugar 

2 c. sifted flour 2 tsp. baking-powder 

1 c. milk" |- tsp. salt 

1 egg 
Mix and bake as in General Directions for Muffins (p. 43). 

Irish Flapjack 

1 egg (well beaten) 2 c. flour 

\ c. sugar \ tsp. salt 

1 c. milk 4 tsp. baking-powder 

\ c. currants or seedless raisins 

Mix in order given, beat well, pour into a hot, well-greased frying- 
pan, cook 3 min. over fire, then bake in oven 20 min. Turn out 
whole and serve in pie-shaped pieces. 

Poverty Cakes 

2 c. white corn meal 2 eggs 

2 c. boiling water \ c. milk 

2 tb. butter \ tsp. salt 

Add boiling water carefully to the corn meal, using as much as the 
meal will absorb when mixed to a rather soft dough. Add butter and 
salt. When cool add milk and the eggs well beaten, and drop by 
spoonfuls into hot fat. Fry until brown and serve as breakfast cakes, 
with butter or sirup. 

Sweet Rye Bread with Raisins 

\ yeast cake \ c. shortening 

\ c. lukewarm water 1 tsp. salt 

2 c. scalded milk 1 c. raisins 

\ c. molasses 3 c. rye flour 

3 c. white flour 

Mix, knead, and let rise as for any bread, using white flour for the 
kneading. After second rising, bake in a rather moderate oven. 
Makes 2 loaves. 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 119 

Parker-House Rolls II 

1 pt. milk 3 yeast cakes 

5 tb. sugar 1 c. lukewarm water 

1 tsp. salt 6 to 8 c. flour 
1 tb. butter 

Mix as usual and knead 20 min. ; then roll out ^ in. thick, cut, and 
shape. Place in buttered pan and let rise 5 hr. Bake in a hot oven 
15 to 20 min. 

Squash Biscuits 

1 c. sifted squash -|- tsp. salt 

2 tb. shortening \ yeast cake 
2 tb. sugar Flour 

Dissolve yeast in a little lukewarm water. Add sugar, salt, dissolved 
yeast, and melted shortening to the squash. Mix well and stir in 
enough flour to make a dough about as stiff as for raised bread. 
Knead lightly, let rise to double its bulk ; shape into biscuits, put into 
gem-pans, let rise again, and bake 25 to 30 min. in a moderate oven. 

German Coffee Cakes 

1 c. scalded milk \ c. melted butter 

1^ c. flour 1 c. milk (scalded and cooled) 

\ yeast cake 2 c. flour 

2 eggs 1 tsp. salt 

1 c. sugar Flour to make a soft dough 

Dissolve the yeast and make a sponge of the first three ingredients 
when milk has cooled sufficiently. Let this rise 1 hr. Beat the eggs 
well and add sugar, butter, milk, salt, and measured flour. Mix well 
and add the sponge, using enough more flour to form a very soft 
dough. Put to rise in half-filled pans, and when risen to top, bake 
in the same pans. Before baking moisten the top of the dough with 
the following ingredients mixed well together : 1 tb. melted butter, 
1 tb. flour, 1 c. sugar, and 2 tsp. cinnamon. 



120 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Cinnamon Buns 

i c. scalded milk f tsp. cinnamon 

^ c. sugar 3 c. flour 

2 tb. butter i egg 

£ tsp. salt \ c raisins 

-^ yeast cake in \ c. lukewarm water 

Mix cinnamon and sugar and add with the butter and salt to the 
scalded milk. When lukewarm add the yeast and the egg (well 
beaten). Cut the raisins in halves, stir into the flour, then mix with 
the first mixture. Let rise till double its bulk and then shape by drop-^ 
ping a spoonful at a time into flour and rolling quickly into shape. 
Place in a buttered baking-pan, let rise again, and bake 25 to 30 min. 

Corn Bread 
\ c. corn meal 2 tb. molasses 

1^ c. rye meal J tsp. salt 

2 c. scalded milk \ yeast cake 

Bread flour 

Scald corn meal in milk until thick. Cool and add other ingredients, 
dissolving the yeast as usual. Add enough bread flour to make a soft 
dough, knead, let rise, and bake as for white bread. 

Hard Sugar Gingerbread 

1 c. butter 4 to 6 c. flour 

i£ c. sugar 3 eggs 

3 tsp. baking-powder 1^ tb. ginger 

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then the eggs (well 

beaten). Sift the ginger and baking-powder with 2 c. of the flour 

and stir into the first mixture. Then add enough more flour to make 

a rather stiff dough, and chill. Roll out thin on the baking-sheets ; 

bake 10 to 12 min. in a moderate oven, and while hot cut in strips 

about 2 x 5 in. 

Almond Biscuit 

3 e gg yolks Whites of 3 eggs 

£ c. granulated sugar ^ c. sifted pastry flour 

Rind of \ lemon \ tsp. cream of tartar 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 121 

Beat cream of tartar with white of eggs till dry. Mix like Angel 
cake (p. 50), put into small buttered tins, place \ a blanched almond 
on top or sprinkle with chopped almonds. Bake in a rather warm oven. 

Devil's-Food Cake I 

\ c. butter 1 c. milk 

1 c. sugar 2 oz. chocolate 

2 egg yolks 1 c. and 2 tb. flour 

1 tsp. cooking-soda 

Add beaten yolks of eggs to creamed butter and sugar, then the 
milk, melted chocolate, and the flour and soda sifted together. Bake 
in two layer-cake tins and put together and frost with Boiled frost- 
ing (p. 57) or Confectioner's frosting (p. 57) made with the white 
of the eggs. 

Devil's-Food Cake II 

1 c. grated chocolate \ c. milk 

1 c. brown (or white) sugar 1 egg yolk 

1 tsp. vanilla 

Cook first four ingredients in a double boiler till smooth, flavor, and 
set away to cool. 

\ c. butter 2 c. flour 

1 c. brown (or white) sugar \ c. sweet milk 

2 eggs 1 tsp. cooking-soda 

Mix as for any butter cake, adding whites and yolks of eggs sepa- 
rately. Stir into this the first mixture, then add the soda dissolved 
in 1 tb. warm water. Bake in layers or in a loaf. This makes a 
large loaf, which keeps indefinitely. Frost the loaf with Boiled frost- 
ing (p. 57). If baked in layers use the following filling: 

1 c. brown sugar 1 c. water 

1 c. white sugar 1 tb. vinegar 

Whites of 2 eggs 

Boil first four ingredients till sirup thickens in cold water, then stir 
in the whites of eggs. Let boil up again, heat till thick, and place 
between layers of cake, letting filling cool before putting second layer 
of cake on it. \ lb. marshmallows may be added to filling. 



122 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Mahogany Cake 



2 egg yolks 


^ c. milk 


\ c. milk 


i^ c. flour 


2 tb. cocoa or i \ oz. choc- 


i tsp. soda 


olate 


2 tb. melted butter 


i c. sugar 


i tsp. vanilla 



Cook first three ingredients in a double boiler till thick, stirring 
constantly. Then add the other ingredients in order given. Bake in 
two layer-cake tins or in a loaf. Frost with Boiled frosting (p. 57), 
and use Boiled frosting for the filling also, in layer cake. 

Economy Cake 

1 c. water \ tsp. nutmeg 

1 c. brown sugar \ tsp. salt 

\ c. lard 1 tsp. cooking-soda 

2 c. seeded raisins 2 tb. warm water 
1 tsp. cinnamon 2 c. flour 

\ tsp. cloves ^ tsp. baking-powder 

Put first seven ingredients, in order, into a saucepan and boil 3 min. 
Cool and add remaining ingredients, dissolving soda in hot water. 
Mix well, turn into a buttered and floured cake-tin, and bake 1 hr. or 
more in a slow oven. 

Lady Baltimore Cake 

\ c. butter 2 c. sifted flour 

1 c. granulated sugar 2 tsp. baking-powder 

3 e SS yolks ^ tsp. salt 

i c. milk 1 tsp. rose-water 

\ c. water 1 tsp. almond extract 

Whites of 3 eggs 

Mix as usual, and after the whites of the eggs are added to the 
mixture, beat for 2 min., but do not stir. Turn into three buttered 
layer-cake pans and bake in a quick oven. Use the following mix- 
ture for filling and frosting: 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 123 

Filling 

Double rule for Boiled frosting \ c. walnut meats 

(P- 57) 3 figs 

\ c. raisins 1 tsp. lemon juice 

\ tsp. grated lemon rind 

Chop figs fine, nuts and raisins coarse ; add to \ the frosting ; flavor, 
and use between the layers. Use remainder of frosting for top 
and sides of the cake. 

Roxbury Cake 

\ c. butter 1 tsp. cinnamon 

^ c. sugar \ tsp. cloves 

2 egg yolks ^ tsp. nutmeg 

- 1 c. molasses £ c. seeded raisins 

-^ c. sour milk 1 tsp. soda 

1^ c. flour Whites of 2 eggs 
-^ c. walnut meats (broken) 

Mix in usual manner and bake in small tins (18). Frost if desired. 

Lemon Layer Cake 

\ c. butter ^ c. milk 

1 c. sugar 1 J c. flour 

2 eggs 2 tsp. baking-powder 

Mix and bake as usual for layer cake. Fill with Lemon-Butter Filling 
(below) and sift confectioner's sugar over the top. 

Lemon- Butter Filling 

1 egg 1 c. sugar 

1 lemon (juice and grated rind) 2 tb. butter 

Beat egg, add other ingredients, and cook over hot water till smooth, 
stirring constantly. 

Mocha Cake 

Make layer cake as for Lemon Layer Cake (above) and use Mocha 
Filling (p. 124) for filling and frosting. 



124 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Mocha Filling 

2 c. confectioner's sugar 3 tb. cocoa 

4 tb. butter 4 tb. strong coffee 

Cream the butter ; mix sugar and cocoa and add alternately with the 
coffee. Use a bag and tube for frosting. 

Cry-babies 

1 c. butter 1 c. sour milk 

1 c. sugar 1 egg 

1 c. molasses 2 tsp. soda 

4 c. flour £ tsp. salt 

1 c. raisins tsp. cinnamon 

^ tsp. cloves 

Mix like any cake, drop from teaspoon on shallow tins, and bake 
10 to 12 min. A mixture of raisins, currants, citron, and nuts may 
be substituted for raisins, or 1 c. of any one may be used. 

Boston Cookies 

\ c. butter \ tsp. soda 

\ c. lard or drippings 3 tb. hot water 

\\ c. brown sugar 2 eggs (beaten well) 

2 c. flour 1 tsp. vanilla 

\ tsp. salt 1 c. chopped nuts or raisins 

Mix like cake, dissolving soda in hot water and adding to butter 
and sugar when creamed. Drop by the teaspoonful on buttered 
tins, allowing room for the cookies to spread. Bake 10 to 12 min. 
in a moderately hot oven. 

Soft Icing 

3 tb. granulated sugar Confectioner's sugar 
3 tb. boiling water \ tsp. vanilla 

Cook granulated sugar and boiling water, covered, for 3 min. Add 
enough confectioner's sugar to make a frosting that will hold its shape. 
Flavor with vanilla, or use 1 tsp. lemon or orange juice. 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 125 

Sour-Milk Pie 

1 c. thick sour milk \ tsp. salt 

1 c. sugar \ tsp. nutmeg 

f- c. chopped raisins £ tsp. cinnamon 

1 egg, beaten well ■£ tsp. cloves 

Mix in order given and bake between 2 crusts. (See General Directions 
for Pastry (p. 101).) 

Mock Cherry Pie 

\\ c. cranberries 2 tb. flour 

\ c. raisins \ c. cold water 

1 c. sugar 1 tsp. vanilla 

Chop fruit ; add sugar and flour mixed, then the cold water and 
vanilla. Bake with 2 crusts. 

Lemon Sponge Pie 

2 tb. butter 2 tb. flour 
1 c. sugar 2 eggs 

1 c. milk 1 lemon (juice and grated rind) 

Cream butter, sugar, and flour ; add lemon juice and rind, egg yolks 
(well beaten), milk, and the white of eggs (beaten stiff). Pour into a 
lined pie-plate and bake 30 min. 

Fish a la Creole 

3 lb. fish \ tsp. bottled meat sauce 

2 c. tomatoes 6 cloves 

2 tb. onion 1 bay leaf 

1 tsp. salt Bit of mace 

\ tsp. pepper 2 tb. flour 

2 tb. butter 

Use haddock prepared for broiling, slices of halibut or swordfish, 
or fillets of flounder. Place prepared fish (skin down) in a well-greased 
dripping-pan, using a fish sheet or strips of cloth. Pour over it the 
following sauce and bake till the flakes begin to separate : 

Sauce. Heat the tomatoes, with all the seasonings except onion, and 
strain. Melt butter, add onion, and cook till yellow. Stir flour into 
butter and proceed as for Tomato sauce (p. 31). 



126 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Deviled Fish with Rice 

i^ lb. haddock or halibut i tsp. onion juice 

i c. medium white sauce 2 tb. chopped parsley 

1 tsp. bottled meat sauce 1 tsp. salt 

Few drops tabasco sauce \ tsp. paprika 

^ c. buttered crumbs 

Cook and flake the fish ; mix with the white sauce and seasoning. 
Press into a well-buttered mold, cover with crumbs, and bake 25 to 
30 min., setting mold in pan of hot water. Invert on a platter and 
garnish with Rice and tomato (p. 24) to which 2 chopped pimientos 
have been added. 

Baked Codfish Puff 

1 c. shredded codfish 1 egg (beaten) 

1 pt. mashed potato \ tsp. paprika 

\ c. thick white sauce Few drops onion juice 

1 tsp. butter 

Let fish stand 15 min. in warm water. Drain, add other ingredients 
except butter. Place in buttered baking-dish, brush top with the 
butter (melted), and bake till brown. 

Fish and Oyster Pie 

1 pt. oysters 2 c. drawn-butter sauce or 

2 c. cold flaked fish white sauce 

1 tsp. chopped parsley Salt 

\ rule Quick paste (p. 102) Paprika 

Use oyster liquor as part of the liquid for the sauce. Place fish and 
oysters in layers in a buttered baking-dish, season, pour over them the 
sauce, cover with crust, and bake about 25 min. in a moderate oven. 

Lobster Sauce 

\ c. lobster stock 2 tb. flour 

\ c. milk 2 tb. lobster meat 

2 tb. butter 4 tsp. lemon juice 
1 egg yolk 1 tsp. salt 

\ tsp. paprika 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 127 

Make a sauce of the liquids, flour, and butter. Just before serving, 
add seasoning and egg yolk, cook 1 min., and add lobster meat. 

Beef a la Waldorf 

ii lb. beef 2 c. peas 

1 onion ^ c. bread crumbs 

h c. tapioca 1 tsp. salt 

4 c. tomatoes Spk. powdered cloves 

1 c. cold water 2 c. potato cubes 

Soak tapioca for 1 hr. in water enough to cover. Cut beef in cubes, 
slice onion, and put all ingredients except potatoes in a casserole ; 
cover and bake slowly for 4 hr. Add potatoes and cook 1 hr. longer ; 
add more seasoning, if necessary, when cooked. May be cooked in 
a tireless cooker, in which case the cooking-time should be about 
doubled, and the potatoes should be added (cooked and hot) just 
before serving. 

Creole Beef and Macaroni 

1 c. macaroni -J tsp. salt 

2 c. tomato 2 peppers 

1 onion (sliced thin) 1 lb. Hamburg steak 

4 tb. drippings or butter 

Cook macaroni till tender, drain, rinse in cold water, and drain again. 
Cook the onion gently in the tomato, and when soft add it to the beef, 
which should be previously heated in a frying-pan. Then add the 
macaroni, the peppers (sliced), butter, and seasonings ; mix well and 
serve hot. 1 tsp. bottled meat sauce and \ c. grated cheese may be 
added, and cold roast beef may be used. 

Okra Stew 

2 c. raw mutton 2 c. tomatoes 
2 tb. fat 2 c. okra 

4 tb. flour i£ tsp. salt 

2 onions \ tsp. paprika 

Water 

Use neck or shoulder of mutton. Wipe the meat with a damp cloth 
and cut into cubes. Wash and cut the okra in pieces, dredge it and the 



128 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

meat with the flour, and fry in the fat till brown. (If canned okra is 
used, do not fry it.) Put all ingredients into fireless-cooker can, add 
water enough barely to cover, boil for 5 min., and place in the cooker 
for 4 or 5 hr. If preferred, this may be cooked gently on top of the 
stove for 2^ to 3 hr. 

Syrian Stew 

Make like Okra Stew (above), using string beans in place of okra. 

Tripe a la Poulette 

1 c. thick white sauce 1 tsp. lemon juice 

2 c. tripe 1 tb. chopped parsley 
1 egg yolk \ tsp. salt 

Spk. cayenne pepper 

Wash fresh tripe, cut into strips, and parboil gently for 15 min. 
Drain well ; add to sauce, season, heat to boiling point ; then add 
egg and cook 1 min. 

Chicken Hollandaise 

1 to 2 c. chicken 2 egg yolks 

2 c. chicken stock \ tb. lemon juice 

3 tb. butter Spk. nutmeg 

4 tb. flour \ tsp. onion juice 

i£ tsp. salt yig- tsp. cayenne pepper 

1 c. rice or macaroni 

Cook macaroni or rice till soft ; drain, rinse, and drain again. Make 
a sauce from butter, flour, and stock and add the chicken (cut fine) 
and the macaroni. Reheat, add eggs and seasoning, cook 1 min., 
and serve on toast or in small casseroles. 

Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin 

2 c. milk ^ tsp. paprika 

•§- tb. onion y tsp. salt 

■£ c. chopped celery f c. cracker crumbs 

2 tb. butter 2 tb. melted butter 

4 tb. flour 2 c. coined beef (in cubes) 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 129 

Scald onions in milk ; remove, and make a white sauce with the 
milk, flour, and butter. Add celery and corned beef, turn into a but- 
tered baking-dish, cover with the crumbs mixed with melted butter, 
and bake till crumbs are brown. 

Scalloped Rice and Meat 

1 c. chopped cooked meat 1^ c. brown sauce 

2 c. boiled rice •J c. mushrooms 
Buttered crumbs 1 tsp. salt 

£ tsp. paprika 

Add mushrooms to brown sauce, which should be seasoned with 
onion juice and any bottled meat sauce. Put rice and meat in layers 
in a buttered baking-dish, season, pour over them the sauce, cover 
with buttered crumbs, and bake till crumbs are brown. 

English Monkey with Tomato 

\ to 1 c. soft bread crumbs \ c. chopped cheese 

\ c. tomato 1 egg 

^ c. milk -J tsp. salt 

£ tsp. cooking-soda Spk. cayenne pepper 

£ tb. butter 

Cook crumbs and cheese in milk till cheese is melted. Add all other 
ingredients except egg and stir till well blended. Then add the egg 
(well beaten), cook 1 min., and serve on crackers. 

Mexican Rabbit 

2 tb. butter. 1 c. cheese (cut thin) 

1 green pepper f- c. canned corn 

1 tsp. salt - 1 c. tomato 

\ tsp. paprika 2 eggs 

Remove seeds from pepper, scald it, chop fine, and cook in the 
butter till tender. Stir in the cheese, and when melted add the other 
ingredients, egg last. Stir constantly, and when smooth and thick 
serve on bread toasted on one side. 



130 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Cheese Salad 

i c. cream ^ c. grated dry cheese 

8 stuffed olives (cut small) J tsp. salt 

i pimiento (cut in strips) \ tsp. pepper 

£ tb. gelatin ^ c. cold water 

Soak the gelatin in the cold water and dissolve by setting it over 
boiling water. Add all other ingredients except the cream, put bowl 
into ice water, and stir mixture until it begins to thicken. Then fold 
in the cream (beaten stiff). Put this into six small molds to harden. 
Turn out and serve on lettuce leaves with French dressing (p. 96) or 
Mayonnaise dressing (p. 95). 

Cheese-and-Pimiento Pudding 

2 thick slices bread 2 c. milk 

2 tb. butter 2 eggs 

2 pimientos (cut small) 1 tsp. salt 

§ c. chopped cheese \ tsp. paprika 

\ tsp. mustard 

Spread butter on bread and cut the slices in small cubes. Add the 
cheese and pimientos and the seasonings mixed together. Put into 
a buttered baking-dish, pour over them the eggs (well beaten and 
mixed with the milk), and bake in a moderate oven till egg is set. 
Serve at once, for luncheon or supper, with a green salad. 

Potato Omelet 

3 c. mashed potato \ tb. chopped parsley 

1 tb. chopped onion 4 eggs 

2 tb. butter 1 tsp. salt 

\ tsp. paprika \ c. hot milk 

Brown the onion in butter. Beat eggs light and fold them into the 
potato, to which milk has been added. Add seasonings and cook the 
mixture in the browned butter as for an omelet. Serve with White 
sauce (p. 30). 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 131 

Rice Omelet 

1 c. hot boiled rice ^ tsp. paprika 

2 eggs 1 tb. water 
•J tsp. salt 1 tb. butter 

Separate eggs, beat whites stiff and yolks till light-colored and thick. 
Add rice, seasonings, and water to yolk of eggs, then fold in the white. 
Cook in the butter over the fire till brown, then finish in the oven. 
Fold and serve with Cheese sauce (p. 30). 

Hungarian Potatoes 

1 qt. cooked potatoes 1 c. tomato 

3 tb. butter 1 c. stock 

1 tb. chopped onion 1 tsp. salt 

2 tb. parsley £ tsp. paprika 

Brown onion slightly in the butter. Add this to potatoes and other 
ingredients except parsley, in a buttered baking-dish, using enough 
stock to about half cover the mixture. Cover dish, place in the oven, 
and bake till stock is nearly absorbed. Sprinkle with the parsley 
before serving. 

Tomato Tim bales 

2 eggs and 1 yolk % c. soft bread crumbs 

^ tsp. salt 2 tb. melted butter 

£ tsp. pepper 1 c. tomato puree 

Prepare tomato puree by boiling down 2 c. canned tomato till it is 
reduced to 1 c. and then rubbing through a strainer. Beat eggs well 
and add other ingredients in order given. Turn into buttered timbale- 
molds or small cups. Set on many folds of paper in a pan of water 
and bake till mixture is firm. Test with a knife as for custard. Oven 
should not be hot enough to cause water to boil. Let stand 5 min. 
before removing from the mold. Serve with White sauce (p. 30). 



132 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Savory Tomato 

4 c. canned tomatoes 4 tb. chopped green or 

I to 1 c. chopped meat red peppers 

£ tsp. mustard 1 c. cracker crumbs 

1 tsp. salt 4 tb. butter (melted) 

Mix cracker crumbs with butter. Add other ingredients to the 
tomatoes and proceed as for Scalloped tomato (p. 36). Walnuts or 
peanuts may be substituted for meat. Serve for luncheon or supper. 

Neapolitan Spaghetti 

2 c. spaghetti 2 tb. grated cheese 
1 c. tomatoes 1 tb. butter 

\ c. bacon (cut fine) 1 tsp. salt 

1 tb. chopped onion \ tsp. pepper 

\ tsp. paprika 

Cook spaghetti in boiling salted water till tender. Drain and blanch 
with cold water. Cook onion and bacon till onion is yellow, add the 
other ingredients with \ c. hot water. Put spaghetti in a buttered 
baking-dish, pour over it the bacon etc., and bake 15 min. in a very 
moderate oven. Sprinkle with chopped parsley before serving. 

Swedish Timbale Cases 

\ c. flour 2 egg yolks 

\ tsp. salt \ c. milk 

Beat the eggs and add the milk. Pour gradually into the sifted 
flour and stir and beat till perfectly smooth. Add the salt. Shape on 
a timbale iron and fry in hot fat. Heat the iron in the fat before 
using. If batter fails to adhere, the iron is too cold; if it cooks as 
soon as the iron is dipped into the batter, the iron is too hot. Fill 
with creamed meat or fish as a hot dish, or with fresh fruit, sugared, 
for dessert. 

Potato and Cheese Fritters 

2 c. hot riced potato Spk. cayenne pepper 
\ c. grated cheese White of 1 egg 

1 tsp. salt 2 egg yolks 

Spk. nutmeg 1 tb. flour 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 133 

Add flour, seasonings, and grated cheese to the potato. Mix well 
and add the eggs (well beaten). Drop by the spoonful into hot fat, 
fry a delicate brown, and drain on brown paper. 

Perfection Salad 

1 tb. gran, gelatin f tsp. salt 

1 c. cold water 1 tb. sugar 

1 c. boiling water -f c. chopped celery 

Juice of - 1 lemon £ c. shredded cabbage 

£ c. vinegar % can chopped pimientos 

Soak gelatin in cold water. Add vinegar, lemon juice, boiling water, 
sugar, and salt. Strain ; when mixture begins to set, add remaining 
ingredients and mix thoroughly. Pour into molds and chill. Serve on 
nests of lettuce leaves. Garnish with Mayonnaise dressing (p. 95). 

Frozen Fruit Salad 

1 tb. butter \ tsp. paprika 

2 egg yolks (.well beaten) Spk. cayenne pepper 

3 tb. sugar § c. milk 
3^ tb. flour \ c. vinegar 

1 tsp. salt 1 c. prepared fruit 

Use for the fruit any desired proportion of oranges, cherries, ba- 
nanas, and pineapple. Be sure to remove all skin and seeds. Melt 
butter in top of double boiler. Mix the sugar, flour, and seasonings, 
add the egg yolks, turn into the double boiler, and add both milk and 
vinegar cold. Set over hot water and stir until mixture thickens. 
Remove from fire, beat 3 min., and chill. Add the fruit, put in 
molds (baking-powder boxes are good), and fasten a strip of cloth 
dipped in oil or melted fat around the seam to keep out moisture. 
Pack in ice and salt (2 parts ice to 1 part salt). Let stand 2 hr. Cut 
in slices and serve on lettuce leaves with Sweet French dressing (p. 96). 
If preferred, 1 tb. gelatin may be soaked in 2 tb. cold water and dis- 
solved in the hot dressing. Then add the fruit and chill in small 
molds without packing. Turn out and serve as above. 



134 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Apple Roll 
2 c. flour §- c. milk 

4 tsp. baking-powder i c. chopped apple 

^ tsp. salt 4 tb. sugar 

2 tb. butter \ tsp. cinnamon 

Mix and sift the dry ingredients, adding half the sugar. Chop in 
the butter with a knife and add enough milk to make a rather soft 
dough. Roll out about £ in. thick. Mix the remainder of the sugar 
and the cinnamon with the apples and spread over the dough, which 
should first be brushed over with melted butter. Roll up like a jelly 
roll and cut in slices f in. thick. Lay flat in a buttered pan and bake 
20 min. in a fairly hot oven. Serve with any hot pudding sauce. 

Fruit Canapes 

6 slices Egg toast (p. 35) 1 tb. cornstarch 

6 half peaches Juice of 1 lemon 

1 c. water ^ c. sugar 

Use fresh fruit or canned ; if the latter is used, substitute fruit 
juice for the water. Cook fruit with water and sugar till tender but 
not broken. Remove from the sirup and place fruit on the toast 
(cut in circular pieces). Thicken the sirup with the cornstarch mixed 
with \ c. cold water and pour over the canape's. Apricots or slices of 
pineapple may be used in place of the peaches. 

Marshmallow Cream 
* 
^ tb. gelatin 1 c. cream 

3 tb. cold milk White of 1 egg (beaten stiff) 
|- c. sugar -J lb. marshmallows 

■5- tsp. vanilla 2 bananas 

1 tb. lemon juice \ c. candied cherries 

£ c. chopped nuts 

Soak the gelatin in the cold milk and dissolve by setting over boil- 
ing water. Add sugar and cream and beat with an egg-beater till 
firm throughout. The process may be hastened by setting the bowl 
into ice water. Cut the marshmallows into quarters, chop the cherries 



UNCLASSIFIED RECIPES 135 

and nuts, cut bananas into small cubes and mix with the lemon juice. 
Fold the fruit and white of egg into the cream mixture. Chill and 
serve in glass cups garnished with cherries. 

Fig Charlotte 

1 tb. gelatin 1 c. cream 

^ c. cold milk 12 figs 

f c. hot milk 1 c. water 

1 c. sugar 2 tb. lemon juice 

2 tb. sugar 

Cook figs in water and lemon juice till tender, adding 2 tb. sugar. 
Line glass cups with half the figs (cut in strips) and fill with cream 
prepared as follows : Soak gelatin in the cold milk and then dissolve 
in the hot milk. Add remainder of figs (cut small), and the sirup and 
sugar. Chill in ice water. When mixture begins to thicken, fold in 
the cream (beaten stiff). 

Lemon Cream Pudding 

4 eggs 1 lemon (juice and grated 

4 tb. sugar rind) 

2 tb. hot water 2 tb. powdered sugar 

Beat yolks of eggs with granulated sugar. Add lemon juice, lemon 
rind, and water. Cook until it thickens, using double boiler. Remove 
from fire and sur in white of eggs (beaten stiff) with the sugar. Chill 
thoroughly before serving. 

Swedish Pudding 

4 tb. rice £ pt. cream 

3 c. milk 1 tsp. vanilla 

•J tsp. salt 2 tb. granulated gelatin 

\ c. boiling water 

Cook rice in 2 c. milk till very soft. Add salt. Take from fire and 
add 1 c. cold milk. When cold add whipped cream, flavoring, and 
gelatin (previously soaked according to General Directions (p. 80) 
and dissolved in \ c. boiling water). Chill and serve with chocolate 
sauce, crushed fruit, or maple sirup with chopped nuts. 



136 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Imperial Rice Cream 

2 tb. gelatin 2 c. milk 

£ c. cold water 1 c. cream 

1 c. cooked rice y c. chopped walnuts 

1 c. sugar 1 tsp. vanilla 

Make like Chocolate Bavaria?i cream (p. 82), and when the milk and 
gelatin begin to thicken, stir in the rice and walnuts. Flavor and fold 
in the cream (beaten stiff). Chill and serve. 2 oz. melted chocolate 
may be added to the gelatin mixture if desired. 

Plain Mousse 

Any Bavarian cream mixture (see p. 82) may be packed in ice and 
salt (2 parts ice to 1 part salt) for from 4 to 6 hr. and served as 
a frozen dessert. A richer mixture may be made by omitting half the 
milk and half the gelatin. 

Rich Mousse 

1 pt. cream 1 c. sugar 

1 c. fruit pulp Spk. salt 

Beat the cream stiff, fold in other ingredients, and chill as above. 
Use any desired fruit. 

Coffee mousse. Omit fruit and flavor with 2 tb. coffee extract. 

Maple mousse. Omit fruit, add \ c. maple sirup, and use only \ c. 
sugar. 1 c. chopped nuts may be added. 



XII 
SELECTION OF FOOD 

HOW TO PLAN MEALS 

In the choice of food for an individual or a group of people, 
there is great need of an understanding of the properties of 
food and the work which it must do in the body. The classi- 
fication of food has been given elsewhere ; its selection and 
combinations only will be considered here. 

It is frequently said that appetite is the best guide in the 
choice of food for the individual. That is probably true of 
a normal appetite, but most appetites have become so perverted 
by misuse that it is not safe to trust entirely to them. Two 
points, then, must be borne in mind in planning the daily 
dietary : first, that food must be of good quality, well prepared, 
attractively served, and wisely combined, in order to please 
the eye and palate and so stimulate digestion ; second, that it 
must meet the needs of those for whom it is prepared, both 
as to quantity and composition. 

To fulfill the first two requirements is easy. Buy the best 
that can be obtained (not always the most expensive, but that 
which is seasonable and of high grade), then prepare according 
to methods which have proved satisfactory. Food out of season 
is always an extravagance and is often of inferior quality. 

Attractive serving depends on the fact that the eye governs 
the taste and that food which is unattractive in appearance is 
distasteful and therefore indigestible. Avoid overdecoration, 
though a slight garnishing adds greatly to the aesthetic value 
of many dishes. Slices of lemon, pimientos, stuffed olives, 
hard-cooked eggs, shredded lettuce, watercress, parsley, or 

137 



138 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

any greens suggested by one's ingenuity may be used to gar- 
nish savory dishes, while whipped cream (delicately colored), 
candied cherries, angelica, chopped nuts, etc., are suitable for 
cakes and desserts. Be careful that greens which may wilt are 
not used on hot dishes, and remember that whipped cream 
liquefies on hot desserts. 

To obtain variety serve only a few kinds of food at a meal, 
but vary the selection for each meal. Once a day is enough to 
use meat in most families ; in its place fish and the various 
meat substitutes may be included in the luncheon menu, while 
eggs, salt fish, baked beans, or a hearty cereal (such as whole 
oatmeal or cracked wheat, served with plenty of milk) may re- 
place it for breakfast. If a starchy vegetable is desired for two 
meals, use potatoes for one and rice, macaroni in its various 
forms, hominy, or sweet potatoes for the other. Where a sec- 
ond vegetable is desired, choose a succulent one, such as greens, 
asparagus, onions, turnips, or carrots for a hot dish and cucum- 
bers, lettuce, tomatoes, celery, or cabbage for a cold dish. Avoid 
vegetables similar in flavor or texture ; even the color should be 
different, except at a formal meal, which may carry out a color 
scheme. When meat is served with gravy, a second sauce 
should not accompany the vegetables, nor should two creamed 
dishes be used at the same meal. 

Bread in some form, butter, and a beverage are permissible 
at all meals, but while coffee and tea have no food value except 
for the milk and sugar added, cocoa is distinctly nourishing 
and should only be used to increase the nutritive value of a 
meal. When the first course is soup, no beverage should be 
served except a small cup of after-dinner coffee, as too large an 
amount of liquid weakens the power of the gastric juice to 
digest the solid foods. 

It is probably true that it is impossible, under normal con- 
ditions, to serve too many fresh fruits and vegetables if care is 
taken to select them wisely and to have the diet otherwise 
balanced. Our common habit of beginning a meal with fruit 



SELECTION OF FOOD 139 

stimulates the digestive system and puts it into condition to 
receive the foods more difficult of digestion. The same is true 
of the use of hot soup. On the other hand, we place sweets at 
the end of a meal in order that they may leave a pleasant sen- 
sation and excite the flow of the gastric juice ; they should not, 
however, be used for this purpose at the beginning of a meal, 
since they are so satisfying as to lessen the desire for more 
nourishing food. And while an excessive use of relishes and 
condiments is not to be recommended, they, also, undoubtedly 
serve much the same purpose, since highly seasoned food 
increases the secretion of the digestive juices. Thus many of 
our common practices have a physiological basis which we 
cannot afford to ignore in the choice of our food. 

Yet it is also true that many of our eating habits are bad. 
Sugar on rice used as a vegetable, butter for seasoning fat 
meats, oil dressings or rich sauces on meat or fish, sirup on 
griddlecakes, ice cream as a sauce for pies, whipped cream on 
chocolate, bonbons during a meal — all may be relished by the 
epicure, but should be indulged in only by those whose diges- 
tions are excellent. And any combination is difficult to digest 
if, as in fried food or pastry, starchy materials are coated with 
fat. These should not necessarily be wholly excluded from the 
diet, but should be served infrequently and eaten in moderation. 

For the second point to be considered in the choice of food, 
namely, that it should meet the needs of the individual as to 
quantity and composition, some standard for estimating those 
needs is essential. It is not enough that food should build and 
repair the tissues and framework of the body, it must also fur- 
nish heat to maintain the body temperature and supply energy 
for its work ; that is, it must have a caloric 1 value. And while 
the building and repairing of the tissues and framework of the 
body can be done only by protein and mineral salts respectively, 

1 A calorie is the unit by which heat is measured. It is commonly reckoned 
as the amount of heat required to raise one kilogram of water one degree 
centigrade. 



140 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

all foods except mineral salts may yield heat. Protein and carbo- 
hydrates supply 4 calories per gram, while fats and oils furnish 
9 calories per gram. Protein should not be depended on too 
largely as a source of energy, not only because it is generally 
an expensive source of heat, but because the body can care for 
only a moderate amount of it. From one eighth to one tenth 
of the amount of heat required by the body may generally be 
furnished by the protein in the diet without harm. Scientists 
have demonstrated that an average daily need is for food that 
will supply 2400 to 3500 calories, the smaller amount being 
required by a woman at light muscular work, the larger by a 
man at moderately active muscular work. Age and sex modify 
the requirement, which is reduced by a sedentary occupation 
and increased by vigorous out-of-door life. Children under 
sixteen require from three tenths to eight tenths of the larger 
number of calories. 

Dr. Langworthy says in the Scientific Monthly for March, 
1916 : 

A consideration of the results of American experiments and other data 
has led us to conclude that, with our ordinary food habits, involving, as they 
do, the use of a considerable variety of foods in reasonably liberal quantities, 
one is justified for many purposes in discussing dietetics on a basis of 
energy only, since a diet which supplies 3000 to 3500 calories of energy 
per man per day, as ours very commonly does, almost inevitably supplies 
the needed protein, ash, and other constituents also. Particularly is this 
the case when one takes pains to include in the diet a reasonable amount 
of milk, green vegetables, and fruit. 1 

The daily menus given at the end of this section are based 
on the needs of a man requiring 3500 calories per day, giving 
due consideration to the inclusion in those menus of a proper 
amount of each foodstuff, namely, protein, fat, starch, sugar, 
and ash (mineral salts). To supply the latter the housekeeper 

1 The reader is referred to a reprint of this article issued by the Journal of 
Home Economics, Baltimore, Md., for further valuable information; also to a 
publication of the American School of Home Economics, Chicago, 111., entitled 
" Food Values," which gives an excellent list of 100-calorie portions. 



SELECTION OF FOOD 141 

must know their chief sources. Carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen 
are present in all foods, while nitrogen and sulphur are found 
in all protein, so these are easily supplied in the diet. A liberal 
supply of milk, eggs, and cheese will furnish calcium and phos- 
phorus, the latter being also abundant in whole grains and 
vegetables. Sodi?im is largely used, being one of the ingredi- 
ents of common salt and also being found in many vegetables. 
Chlorine is supplied by common salt. Vegetable foods, espe- 
cially spinach and prunes, are valuable sources of iron, while 
entire wheat contains both iron and magnesium, which is also 
present in cocoa, chocolate, dried beans, almonds, walnuts, pea- 
nuts, and oatmeal. Dried beans and peas, figs, dates, prunes, 
raisins, cocoa, and most acid fruits furnish a relatively large 
amount of potassium. 

For further assistance in arranging a family dietary, the food 
values given for each group of recipes may be consulted. No 
one meal need include all the foodstuffs if all are represented 
in the menus for the day. It is likewise true of the daily cal- 
oric need that a slight lack on one day may be made up by a 
corresponding increase on the next. 

The menus which follow may be modified to suit the needs 
of one or more individuals. By way of contrast with the well- 
balanced meals are given three examples of meals containing 
an excess of the food principle indicated, in the hope that they 
may assist in the avoidance of such mistakes. 



142 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 
Well-Balanced Menus 



Menu I 

Breakfast 

Stewed prunes 

Rolled oats . 

Milk . . 

Sugar 

Toast ... 

Butter 

Bacon 

Coffee 

Cream 

Sugar 

Luncheon or Supper 
Creamed haddock 

Toast 

Sauce 

Rice muffins 

Butter 

Cocoa 

Whipped cream 

Beet greens 

Baked apple 

Sugar 

Cream 

Dinner 

Tomato soup 

Croutons 

Bread 

Butter ....... 

Roast pork 

Gravy 

Apple sauce 

Apple 

Sugar 



Amount 



Calories 



4 

3 hp. 
J- c 

3 t " 

i tb. 

2 sl. 

I tb. 

I lg. sl 

I c. 

4 tb. 
I tb. 



tb. 



i c. 

Jtb. 

2 sl. 

J- c 

3 l " 
I 

2 tb. 



IOO 
IOO 

50 
50 

200 

IOO 

150 

IOO 

50 





900 


5 oz. 


100 


*d. 


5° 


ic 


125 


I 


100 


^tb. 


50 


I c. 


200 


2 tb. 


50 


2 hp. tb. 


5° 


1 


75 


1 tb. 


50 


2 tb. 


5° 



900 

50 

50 
50 

400 
100 

75 
100 



SELECTION OF FOOD 



143 



Menu I (Continued) 

Franconia potatoes 

Boiled onions 

Butter 

Bread (whole-wheat) .... 

Butter 

Snow pudding 

Custard sauce 



Amount 


Calories 


2 


200 


3 


125 


1 tb. 


100 


2 si. 


200 


1 tb. 


100 


2 hp. tb. 


70 


1 c 
4 *~ 


75 



1695 



Menu II 

Breakfast 

Banana 

Shredded-wheat biscuit . . . 

Milk 

Sugar 

Scrambled eggs 

Butter . 

Corn-meal muffins 

Butter 

Coffee 

Cream 

Sugar 

Luncheon or Supper 
Cream-of-celery soup .... 
Cheese crackers 

Cheese 

Butter 

Potato salad 

Potato 

Lettuce 

Mayonnaise 

Bran muffins 

Butter 

Baked caramel custard .... 



Amount 



Calories 



I 
I 

A c 

3 *-• 

i tb. 

2 
1 tb. 

1 
*tb. 
1 c. 

4 tb. 
1 tb. 



100 
100 

5° 

5° 
200 
100 
100 

5° 

100 

5° 





9OO 


1 c. 


5° 


4 


50 


\ oz. 


3° 


i tb. 


5° 


1 


IOO 


2 leaves 





1 tb. 


175 


2 


200 


1 tb. 


IOO 


1 c 

■2 *- 


150 



905 



144 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Menu II (Continued) 

Dinner 
Cream of green peas .... 
Browned crackers 

Butter 

Roast lamb 

Gravy 

Baked spaghetti and tomato . 

Spinach 

Bread 

Butter 

Lettuce salad 

French dressing 

Olives 

Prune souffle 

Cream (whipped) 

Peanut cookies 



Amount 


Calories 


I c. 


150 


4 


50 


i tb. 


100 


2 Si. 


300 


-t c 

3 *-■ 


IOO 


4 hp. tb. 


200 


4 hp. tb. 


IOO 


I si. 


100 


h tb. 


5° 


2 leaves 


— 


2 tb. 


150 


3 


50 


2 hp. tb. 


100 


4 tb. 


IOO 


4 


150 



1700 



Menu III 

Breakfast 

Orange 

" Grapenuts " 

Milk 

Sugar 

Rolls (white) 

Butter 

Creamed salt fish . . . . 

Sauce 

Coffee 

Cream 

Sugar 




Calories 



5° 
100 

5° 

5° 

200 

100 

75 
125 

100 

50 
900 



SELECTION OF FOOD 



H5 



Menu III (Continued) 

Luncheon or Supper 
Creole beans 

Tomato sauce 

Nut bread 

Butter 

Cabbage (shredded) 

French dressing 

Fruit macedoine 

Orange 

Banana 

Sugar 

Dinner 
Corn soup 

Duchess crusts 

Bread 

Butter 

Round steak 

Creamed potatoes 

Sauce . . 

Buttered beets 

Butter 

String beans 

Butter 

Bread (whole-wheat) .... 

Butter 

Baked Indian pudding .... 

Cream 



Amount 



Calories 



3 hp. tb. 

h c - 

2 si. 

1 tb. 

3 hp. tb. 

2 tb. 



tb. 



200 

5o 

200 

100 

5 
150 

So 

5° 

100 





905 


I c. 


140 


1 si. 


100 


£ tb. 


5° 


2 si. 


270 


2 


200 


1 c 


170 


4 hp. tb. 


5° 


1 tb. 


[OO 


2 hp. tb. 


15 


T tb. 


25 


1 si. 


100 


h tb. 


. 5° 


2 hp. tb. 


325 


4 tb. 


100 



1695 



146 THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 

Poorly Balanced Menus 
Excess of Protein 

Pea soup 

Whole-wheat crackers 

Roast beef 
Macaroni 
Dried Lima beans 
Whole-wheat bread 

Baked custard 

Crackers and cheese 

Excess of Starch and Sugar 

Corn soup 

Browned crackers 
Roast turkey 

Mashed white potatoes 

Sweet potatoes 

Green peas 

Cranberry sauce 

White bread 
Baked rice pudding 

Cocoa 

Excess of Eat 

Oxtail soup 

Fried croutons 

Liver and bacon 
Gravy 

Creamed potatoes 
Buttered parsnips 

Salmon salad with mayonnaise 

Suet pudding 

Whipped-cream sauce 



INDEX 



Albumenized fruit juice, 115 
Albumenized milk, 115 
Apple roll, 134 
Apple sauce, 8 
Apple snow, 65 
Apples, baked, 8 
Apples, glazed, 8 
Apples, stuffed, 8 
Apricot puffs, 51 
Apricot roll, 53 
Apricots, stewed, 7 
Artichokes, Jerusalem, 13 
Asparagus, 13 

Bananas, baked, 8 

Batter puddings, 46 

Beans, baked, 93 

Beans, kidney, and rice, 93 

Beans, lima, a la Creole, 93 

Beans, shell, 13 

Beans, string, 11 

Beef, a la Waldorf, 127 

Beef, Creole, and macaroni, 127 

Beef, rolled, 77 

Beef juice, 114 

Beets, buttered, 12 

Beets, pickled, 12 

Biscuits, almond, 120 

Biscuits, baking-powder, 44 

Biscuits, emergency, 44 

Biscuits, graham, 45 

Biscuits, squash, 119 

Biscuits, whole-wheat, 45 

Boston roast, 93 

Bread, brown, 41 

Bread, corn, 120 

Bread, graham, 31 

Bread, milk, 31 

Bread, nut, 44 

Bread, quick graham, 44 

Bread, rolled-oats, 31 

Bread, sweet rye, with raisins, ni 

Bread, water, 31 

Bread, whole-wheat, 31 

Breadsticks, 31 

Broth, clam, 114 

Broth, lamb, 73 



Broth, oyster, 114 
Broth, Scotch, 73 
Buckwheat cakes, 39 
Butter taffy, 54 
Buns, 31 
Buns, cinnamon, 120 

Cabbage, boiled, 11 
Cabbage salad, 16 
Cake, angel, 49 
Cake, cheap sponge, 49 
Cake, chocolate, 51 
Cake, coffee, 51 
Cake, devil's-food, I, 121 
Cake, devil's-food, II, 121 
Cake, Dutch apple, 44 
Cake, economy, 122 
Cake, Lady Baltimore, 122 
Cake, layer, 51 
Cake, lemon layer, 123 
Cake, loaf, 51 
Cake, mahogany, 122 
Cake, mocha, 124 
Cake, rich sponge, 49 
Cake, Roxbury, 123 
Cake, sour-milk, 51 
Cake, water sponge, 49 
Cake, white, 51 
Cake, white layer, 51 
Cakes, cup, I, 51 
Cakes, cup, II, 51 
Cakes, German coffee, 119 
Cakes, poverty, 118 
Candy, 54 
Candy, barley, 54 
Cannelon, roast, 74 
Canning, 109 
Caramels, 54 
Carrots, buttered, n 
Cauliflower, 1 1 
Celery, 16 
Celery, stewed, 11 
Cereals, breakfast, 22 
Cereals, granular, 22 
Charlotte, caramel, 82 
Charlotte, fig, 135 
Charlotte russe, 80 



147 



148 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Cheese, cottage, 61 

Cheese, creamed, 62 

Cheese custard, toasted, 62 

Cheese fondue, 62 

Cheese pudding, 62 

Cheese sandwich, 35 

Cheese souffle, 62 

Cheese-and-pimiento pudding, 130 

Chicken, roast, 83 

Chicken fricassee, 84 

Chicken hollandaise, 128 

Chicken pie, 84 

Chicory, 15 

Chocolate, 6 

Chocolate cream, 26 

Chou cases, 102 

Chowder, clam, 90 

Chowder, corn, 18 

Chowder, fish, 86 

Chowder, vegetable, 18 

Clams, deviled, 92 

Clams, fried, I, 92 

Clams, fried, II, 92 

Cocoa, 6 

Cocoa, cracked, 6 

Cocoa shells, 6 

Codfish puff, baked, 126 

Codfish, Spanish, 88 

Coffee, boiled, 5 

Coffee, filtered, 5 

Coffee, percolator, 5 

Coffee cream, 27 

Conserve, grape, 117 

Cookies, Boston, 124 

Cookies, chocolate, 47 

Cookies, filled, 47 

Cookies, molasses, 47 

Cookies, peanut, 47 

Cookies, sugar, 47 

Corn cake, 43 

Corn, green, 13 

Corn oysters, 41 

Corned beef au gratin, creamed, 128 

Corn-meal mush, 22 

Crabs, deviled, 92 

Cranberry jelly, 8 

Cranberry sauce, 8 

Cream, caramel Spanish, 81 

Cream, chocolate Bavarian, 80 

Cream, chocolate Spanish, 81 

Cream, coffee Bavarian, 82 

Cream, coffee Spanish, 81 

Cream, fruit Bavarian, 80 

Cream, ginger, 82 

Cream, imperial rice, 136 



Cream, macaroon, 81 
Cream, marshmallow, 134 
Cream, Spanish, 80 
Creamcakes, 49 
Croquettes, fish, 99 
Croquettes, meat, 99 
Croquettes, meat-and-potato, 99 
Croquettes, potato, 99 
Croquettes, rice, 99 
Croquettes, sweet rice, 99 
Cry-babies, 1 24 
Cucumbers, 15 
Custard, baked, 65 
Custard, caramel, 66 
Custard, chocolate, 66 
Custard, fruit, 66 
Custard, soft, 65 
Custard, soft caramel, 66 
Custard, soft chocolate, 66 
Custard, tapioca, 65 

Dates, stuffed, 8 
Doughnuts, 39 
Dresden sandwiches, 37 
Dressing, French, 95 
Dressing, sweet French, 96 
Dried-apple sauce, 7 
Drippings, 99 
Duchess crusts, 35 
Duck, roast, 85 
Dumplings, 41 

Eclairs, chocolate, 51 

Eclairs, coffee, 51 

Eclairs, vanilla, 51 

Eggnog, 113 

Eggnog, fruit, 1 13 

Eggplant, 13 

Eggplant, stuffed, 14 

Eggs, baked, 63 

Eggs, creamed, 63 

Eggs, creamy, 63 

Eggs, dropped, 63 

Eggs, goldenrod, 65 

Eggs, hard-cooked, 63 

Eggs, scrambled, 63 

Eggs, scrambled, with tomato, 64 

Eggs, soft-cooked, 63 

Endive, 15 

English monkey with tomato, 129 

Figs, stewed, 7 
Filling, chocolate, 56 
Filling, chocolate cream, 58 
Filling, coffee cream, 58 



INDEX 



149 



Filling, cream, 56 

Filling, fig, 56 

Filling, lemon, 56 

Filling, lemon-butter, 123 

Filling, mocha, 124 

Filling, orange, 58 

Filling, prune-almond, 56 ' 

Finnan haddie, 88 

Finnan haddie, creamed, 88 

Finnan haddie, epicurean, 90 

Fish, baked, 86 

Fish, baked fillet of, 86 

Fish, boiled, 85 

Fish, broiled, 86 

Fish, deviled, with rice, 126 

Fish, fried, 87 

Fish, salt, creamed, 88 

Fish, scalloped, 36 

Fish, smoked and salt, 88 

Fish a la Creole, 125 

Fish balls, 99 

Fish cakes, 88 

Fish hash, 87 

Fish and oyster pie, 126 

Fish sauted, 87 

Fish souffle, 87 

Fish timbales, 87 

Flapjack, Irish, 118 

Florentine meringue, 103 

Fondant, 54 

Fowl, boiled, 83 

Fricassee, brown, 84 

Fritters, corn, 39 

Fritters, fruit, 39 

Fritters, potato and cheese, 13: 

Frosting, boiled, 56 

Frosting, caramel, 56 

Frosting, chocolate, I, 57 

Frosting, chocolate, II, 56 

Frosting, chocolate, III, 56 

Frosting, coffee, 57 

Frosting, confectioner's, 56 

Frosting, milk, 56 

Frosting, orange, 56 

Frosting, ornamental, 56 

Frosting, plain, 56 

Fruit canapes, 134 

Fruit macedoine, 8 

Fruit punch, 8 

Fruit sponge, 28 

Frying, 99 

Fudge, 54 

Ginger snaps, 47 
Gingerbread, hard sugar, 120 



Goose, roast, 85 
Gravy, giblet, 84 
Griddlecakes, 39 
Griddlecakes, bread, 39 
Gruel, oatmeal, 1 1 5 
Gruel, rice-flour, 1 1 5 

Hash cakes, 78 
Hermits, 47 
Hominy cakes, 22 
Hominy and cheese, 24 
Hominy and tomato, 24 

Ice, lemon, 108 

Ice, orange, 107 

Ice, pineapple, 108 

Ice cream, chocolate, 10S 

Ice cream, custard, 107 

Ice cream, vanilla, 107 

Icing, soft, 124 

Jelly, coffee, 80 
Jelly, fruit, 80 
Jelly, lemon, 80 
Jelly, orange, 80 
Jelly, peach tapioca, 28 
Jelly roll, 51 
Jumbles, 47 
Junket, caramel, 61 
Junket, plain, 61 

Lady fingers, 50 
Lentil rolls, 93 
Lettuce, 15 
Liver and bacon, 74 
Lobster, creamed, 90 
Lobster, deviled, 92 
Lobster salad, 96 

Macaroni, baked, 25 
Macaroni, boiled, 25 
Macaroni, creamed, 25 
Macaroni a la Creole, 25 
Macaroni a l'italienne, 25 
Macaroni and cheese, 25 
Macaroni and tomato, 25 
Marmalade, amber, no 
Marmalade, orange, no 
Mayonnaise, cooked, 95 
Mayonnaise, three-minute, 95 
Meat, boiled, 71 
Meat, braised, 74 
Meat, broiled, 71 
Meat, jellied, 74 
Meat, minced, 78 



150 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Meat, pan-broiled, 71 
Meat, roast, 70 
Meat, sauted, 72 
Meat, scalloped, 36 
Meat hash, 78 
Meat loaf I, 74 
Meat loaf II, 79 
Meat loaf III, 78 
Meat pie, 78 
Meat rolls, 74 
Meat souffle, 78 • 
Meat timbales, 78 
Menus, poorly balanced, 146 
Menus, well-balanced, 142 
Meringue, 65 
Meringue, baked, 66 
Mousse, coffee, 108 
Mousse, ginger, 107 
Mousse, plain, 136 
Mousse, rich, 136 
Muffins, berry, 43 
Muffins, bran, 117 
Muffins, cereal, 43 
Muffins, corn-meal, 43 
Muffins, graham, 43 
Muffins, oatmeal, 31 
Muffins, plain, 43 
Muffins, raised flour, 31 
Muffins, rice, 43 
Muffins, Shirley, 43 

Nut brittle, 54 
Nut loaf, 93 

Oatmeal, whole, 23 
Oats, rolled, 23 
Onions, boiled, 1 1 
Omelet, 63 
Omelet, bread, 64 
Omelet, potato, 130 
Omelet, rice, 131 
Orange puffs, 46 
Oyster pie, 90 
Oyster stew, 90 
Oysters, deviled, 92 
Oysters, fried, I, 90 
Oysters, fried, II, 92 
Oysters, panned, 90 
Oysters, scalloped, 90 
Oysters and macaroni, 90 

Panocha, 54 
Parsnips, buttered, 11 
Paste, chopped, 101 



Paste, egg, 101 
Paste, plain, 101 
Paste, quick, 101 
Pates, 101 
Peaches, stewed, 7 
Peas, green, 13 
Pepper hash, 112 
Peppermints, 54 
Peppers, stuffed, 13 
Piccalilli, 1 1 1 
Pickle, aristocratic, 1 1 1 
Pickle, mustard, 112 
Pickle, sweet tomato, 117 
Pickles, cucumber, 112 
Pie, apple, 103 
Pie, apricot, 103 
Pie, berry, 104 
Pie, butterscotch, 103 
Pie, cherry, 104 
Pie, chocolate, 103 
Pie, cottage, 78 
Pie, custard, 103 
Pie, dried peach, 104 
Pie, dried prune, 104 
Pie, lemon, 103 
Pie, lemon sponge, 125 
Pie, mock cherry, 125 
Pie, mock mince, 103 
Pie, orange, 103 
Pie, peach, 104 
Pie, sour-milk, 125 
Pie, squash, 103 
Pop-overs, 46 
Potato cakes, 19 
Potato cases, 19 
Potato puff, 19 
Potatoes, baked, 19 
Potatoes, baked sweet, 21 
Potatoes, boiled, 19 
Potatoes, boiled sweet, 22 
Potatoes, chopped, 19 
Potatoes, chopped sweet, 2: 
Potatoes, creamed. 19 
Potatoes, Delmomco, 21 
Potatoes, Franconia, 19 
Potatoes, fried, 99 
Potatoes, glazed sweet, 22 
Potatoes, Hungarian, 131 
Potatoes, Lyonnaise, 19 
Potatoes, mashed, 19 
Potatoes, mashed sweet, 22 
Potatoes, sauted, 19 
Potatoes, scalloped, 19 
Potatoes, stuffed, 19 



INDEX 



151 



Potatoes, stuffed sweet, 21 


Rolls, 


luncheon, 31 


Prune whip, 67 


Rolls, 


Parker House, I, 31 


Prunes, stewed, 7 


Rolls, 


Parker House, II, 119 


Prunes, stuffed, 8 


Romaine, 1 5 


Pudding, apple, 41 






Pudding, apple sago, 26 


Salad, 


bird's-nest, 96 


Pudding, baked berry, 47 


Salad, 


celery and apple, 96 


Pudding, baked cornstarch, 26 


Salad, 


cheese, 130 


Pudding, baked Indian, 26 


Salad, 


chicken, 98 


Pudding, baked rice, I, 26 


Salad, 


egg, 69 


Pudding, baked rice, II, 26 


Salad, 


egg-and-potato, 69 


Pudding, baked tapioca, 65 


Salad, 


egg-and-sardine, 96 


Pudding, berry, 37 


Salad, 


fish, 96 


Pudding, caramel rice, 29 


Salad, 


frozen fruit, 133 


Pudding, chocolate, 41 


Salad, 


lobster, 96 


Pudding, chocolate bread, 37 


Salad, 


meat, 96 


Pudding, cold cabinet, 81 


Salad, 


perfection, 133 


Pudding, cottage, 46 


Salad, 


pineapple, 96 


Pudding, Delmonico, 65 


Salad, 


potato, 69 


Pudding, fruit bread, 37 


Salad, 


shrimp, 98 


Pudding, graham, 41 


Salad, 


tomato, 96 


Pudding, hot berry, 38 


Salad, 


tomato jelly, 96 


Pudding, lemon, 37 


Salad, 


vegetable, 69, 96 


Pudding, lemon cream, 135 


Salad dressing, butter, 68 


Pudding, Norwegian prune, 26 


Salad dressing, cream, 68 


Pudding, orange, 27 


Salad dressing, hot, 68 


Pudding, peach, 27 


Salad dressing, plain, 68 


Pudding, plain bread, 37 


Salad dressing, rich, 68 


Pudding, plum, 42 


Salmon, smoked, 88 


Pudding, prune tapioca, 26 


Salsify, creamed, 13 


Pudding, rice pineapple, 65 


Sauce 


apricot, 60 


Pudding, scalloped apple, 36 


Sauce 


brown, 29 


Pudding, snow, 81 


Sauce 


brown-sugar, 59 


Pudding, steamed batter, 41 


Sauce 


cheese, 30 


Pudding, steamed berry, 42 


Sauce 


chocolate, 59 


Pudding, suet, 41 


Sauce 


creamy, 59 


Pudding, Swedish, 135 


Sauce 


drawn-butter, 29 


Pudding, vanilla sponge, 26 


Sauce 


egg, 3° 


Pudding sauces, 59 


Sauce 


egg (pudding), 59 


Puddings, queen of, 37 


Sauce 


foamy, 59 



Radishes, 15 
Rabbit, Mexican, 129 
Rabbit, Welsh, 62 
Rhubarb sauce, 8 
Rice, boiled, 23 
Rice, steamed, 23 
Rice and cheese, 23 
Rice and salmon, 23 
Rice and tomato, 23 
Ricelets, 118 
Rolled oats, 22 
Rolls, coffee, 31 
Rolls, fruit, 44 



Sauce, fudge, 59 

Sauce, hard, 59 

Sauce, lemon, 59 

Sauce, lobster, 126 

Sauce, mock hollandaise, 30 

Sauce, orange, 59 

Sauce, parsley, 30 

Sauce, tartar, 86 

Sauce, tomato, 29 

Sauce, tomato cream, 29 

Sauce, vanilla, 59 

Sauce, white, 29 

Sauce piquante, 30 

Scalloped dishes, 35 



152 



THE PRACTICAL COOKBOOK 



Scalloped rice and meat, 129 

Scallops, fried, I, 92 

Scallops, fried, II, 90 

Sherbet, lemon milk, 107 

Sherbet, pineapple, 107 

Shortcake, 44 

Shrimps, deviled, 92 

Slaw, cold, 69 

Slaw, hot, 69 

Souffle, chocolate, 65 

Souffle, prune, 65 

Souffle, vanilla, 65 

Soup, baked-bean, 17 

Soup, black-bean, 18 

Soup, celery, 16 

Soup, corn, 16 

Soup, green-pea, 16 

Soup, kidney-bean, 18 

Soup, lentil, 18 

Soup, lima-bean, 18 

Soup, oxtail, 73 

Soup, potato, 16 

Soup, split-pea, 17 

Soup, tomato, 16 

Soup, tomato bisque, 16 

Soup stock, 73 

Soup stock, white, 73 

Soy, 1 1 1 

Spaghetti, Neapolitan, 132 

Spinach, 11 

Spinach, bechamel, 12 

Sponge drops, 49 

Sprouts, Brussels, 13 

Squab, 116 

Squash, 11 

Squash, summer, 13 

Steak, Hamburg, 74 

Steamed mixtures, 41 

Stew, beef, 74 

Stew, Italian,. 74 

Stew, lamb, 74 

Stew, okra, 127 

Stew, Syrian, 128 

Stew, veal, 74 



Succotash, 13 

Swedish timbale cases, 13: 

Sweetbreads, 116 

Tarts, 103 
Tarts, Banbury, 103 
Tarts, Melba, 106 
Tea, 4 

Tea, Russian (cold), 4 
Tea, Russian (hot), 4 
Toast, 34 
Toast, cream, 34 
Toast, egg, 34 
Toast, hot-water, 34 
Toast, plain, 34 
Toast, tomato cream, 34 
Tomato, savory, 132 
Tomato, scalloped, 36 
Tomato timbales, 131 
Tomatoes, baked, 13 
Tomatoes, scalloped, 13 
Tomatoes, sliced, 16 
Tomatoes, stewed, 13 
Tomatoes, stuffed, 14 
Tripe a la poulette, 128 
Turkey, roast, 85 
Turnips, mashed, 1 1 

Veal birds, 77 
Vegetables, scalloped, 36 

Wafers, ginger, 47 
Wafers, nut, 47 
Waffles, plain, 39 
Waffles, raised, 39 
Water, barley, 1 14 
Water, jelly, 1 14 
Water, rice, 1 14 
Water, toast, 114 
Watercress, 16 
Wheat, cracked, 23 
Whey, 1 13 

Yeast bread and rolls, 31 



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